VTR1000.ORG

Thinking back to when I got the bike, I do remember it took a while to get the paint looking perfectly clean. It was a bit like water marks, as you describe. I put it down to residue from whatever they protect them with at the factory. After a few good cleanings with Plexus, it came good and is now ...

I have just used car shampoo (without the wax) and Plexus plastic spray (when it's dry) on my matte black VTR for the last 18 months and it still looks great.

If you've got an earlier model (<2001) it might be worth looking at the standard bars from a later model, as they are slightly higher. Depends how much extra height you need.

Hi there Monkey Got mine from Mornington Honda but they don't do anything special with them. Settings are all as in the handbook. Tried uploading a picture (twice) of me at Phillip Island but it is only Black and White for some reason. Regarding the forks, being a heavyweight will obviously make a ...

It does seem like the standard springs are too soft for most people. However, I have left everything standard (preload etc) on my 2003 model and the fronk forks have never bottomed out, even under regular maximum braking into Honda Hairpin (turn 4) at Phillip Island - they come pretty close though ...

Don't read too much into the difference in heat/output from the cans. The branch to the left (I think) can is partially blocked by the internal piping. If you take it off you'll see.

I'd be interested in more detail about what specifically you consider wrong with the Storm forks. Just describe the behaviour, if you're not sure which aspect of the suspension is causing it. I know the earlier model had very soft springs but of course, springs will never be the optimum rate for all ...

I have to agree with rivergypsy on this one. I have heard that the earlier bikes were bad but that this was addressed in a later upgrade. Mine is a 2003 model and I find it the best handling bike I have ridden on the road. Track is a different issue but still pretty good. We have some very good ...

Remember, whenever you go from a worn out shagged tyre to a new one (even the same make/size), it will transform the feel of the bike.

I keep my tickover at 1200, or a fraction over. A higher idle speed does make the clunk engaging 1st a little louder but doesn't affect changing gear on the move, as you are only easing the load on the transmission for a split second as you change gear - the revs don't drop right back to idle speed ...

It's a standard characteristic of all VTR's. Just a feature of a very positive engagement, the opposite of which would be missed gears, or false neutrals. It's exaggerated going from 1st to 2nd because it has to avoid dropping into neutral. Better to get a very positive clunk as the gears come into ...

I have a Corbin on mine and it's much better than stock, looks good too. My wife likes the pillion. The only problem is that the tongue that locates in the bracket at the rear of the tank is a fraction short and doesn't locate securely. It is possible to pull the front of the seat up. Not worth ...

My fan comes on at 104/5 degreees and temp quickly drops to around 99. Need to be cruising above 80kph for the airflow to kick in, then it stays around the high eighties, low nineties, depending on ambient temperature.

To balance the carbs you will need some vacuum gauges and then you need to be able to connect them via hoses to each intake. I have a bank of 4 vacuum gauges (dial type) that came as a set, fixed to a backing plate. You only need to use 2 of them but having 4 allows me to swap to the other gauges to ...

I think this stalling at idle problem only affected early models. For 2001, Honda revised carb settings (as well as ignition, suspension etc.) and applied the fix for this problem.