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Cheers Tony!

My front CCT had a broken spring so after fitting a new CCT I turned the engine over via the crankshaft (Counter clockwise) and lined up the FT mark at the inspection hole but the cams are not facing away from each other and the and FE mark is nowhere near where it should be!The F1 Mark is in line w...

AMCQ46 wrote:The various paint dots are to define what quality improvement were done at the factory., but none have proven to be bomb proof so ignore them.

Yes it needs to be wound in before fitting.... Make sure you are at tdc before removing

Cheers!:-)

A couple of queries!

I notice on the normal tensioners there is a small red mark on the front and a white mark on the rear?Any reason?

Also,when refitting a standard tensioner should it be retracted and held with the key until fully bolted down?

tony.mon wrote:

cola414 wrote:I also notice in the Haynes manual there is no mention of setting the timing up for removal of the tensioners????

Yep, that's why you need to trust Sirch's guide in the Workshop Knowledgebase rather than Haynes.

Crazy that really as most novices will trust the Haynes manual!

I also notice in the Haynes manual there is no mention of setting the timing up for removal of the tensioners????

AMCQ46 wrote:No, the CCT won't fall part it if you don't lock it, it will just go to full extension

So,if it is being removed why the need to lock it in the first place?

If you visualise the inside of the tensioner have a plus sign cut outs, so divided into four 1/4's, therefore when the key is turned it can slot into any of these cuts out which locks the worm drive into position. The worm retracts or detracts the tensioner and spring within it. :thumbup: (:-}) So,...

What exactly is the locking key needed for when removing the tensioner?