VTR1000.ORG

listing here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/honda-vtr-1000-firestorm-breaking-/331903615337? prices open to negotiation rear subframe £25 front subframe £30 bars £30 forks £110 (pending sale still available) wheels without discs £75 (SOLD) airbox £15 petrol tank (tatty needs a respray) £30 all fairings ...

id love to buy a new engine unfortunately i didn't visit the dentist enough as a kid and had to have 2 teeth out last week as i was in agonizing pain!

£45 just to be seen
£180 per tooth
£20 per numbing injection and i had 5 -.-

i will do, any ideas on what it could possibly be that caused it?

i should imagine ill get piston out the front and see a huge gouge down the bore.

i checked and they appear to have been correct but i cant quite remember the fronts :/ check the pics i uploaded you can see it looks like the piston hit the head as its got marks on it from other parts of the head

the vtr is 1 big roller bearing on the crank so surely both pistons would have made contact?

MGoBlue wrote:With the oil pan off, you can remove the con rod bolts and push the piston out of the cyl.

this is what i wanted to hear

the piston on front has 2 marks from valves and 2 marks either side of valves which tie up with stationary parts on the underside of the head which to me says the pistons gone higher than it should have not the valves coming down as piston went up. can the pistons be removed without splitting the en...

took head covers off today, turn the engine by hand it seems fairly smooth, untll rear ex and front inlet are being opened together then its a struggle to turn.. after that it turns smooth untill its back to rear ex and front inlet. manual ccts havent moved, chain tension the same, and it doesnt app...

got a boroscope so will take a look later on.

if it is a case of big end bearing is it viable to buy new bearings and rebuild this engine?

either way the engines being dropped today or at least make a start on removing the engine after checking the bores.

had rear cam cover off and both plugs out, can turn the engine by hand via alternator however its not smooth and sounds dry...

can see front and rear piston moving up and down fairly smooth, cant see any damage to them.

rear camchain looks fine, timings fine on it

got any pictures or something to point out where i should be looking?

dropped the new oil today and i had quite a few gold flecks in there...
any ideas whats gold in the engine?

forgot to mention it has ades manual ccts

riding wednesday night, rear wheel suddenly locked up, clutched it scared the crap out of me, no idea what happened, restarted engine carried on fine then did it again when leaning hard... more panic! limped home and it did it again! pulled over to see my oil was mega super low! put a few litres in ...

taken what youve said onboard, i will shift my butt to the right and see what happens, its okay on roads that go round to the left as i can stay up longer on bends lol, though usually i start in the right hand lane and end up in the left! vtr is more than adequate for long wheelies, yesterday i mana...

i shall plead insanity

but yeah im sure my left nut is bigger than the right, explains it!