VTR1000.ORG

I have a 12 inch version but without the milling option. Useful for wheel spacers and other minor stuff, but if you want some "serious" work, you'd need a device a few sizes bigger. I'm talking about doing threads, bigger diameters in steel or everything that requires less than 5/100 toler...

Filling a faulty threat with "brazing" of any kind is a risky job. Usually that location is hard to access and contaminated by oil residues. That's the reason why professionals only start welding/brazing when there's something broken off from the case and you absolutely can't avoid it. If ...

Well, see it the positive way: It's not too bad for a 40 yo German car to fail its MOT - an English one would have done that on first occasion :-)

I had good experience sourcing custom spokes from here:
https://menze-fahrzeugteile.de/wheelbuilding/spokes/

Designed upon user requirements and not too expensive. Plus delivered in a few weeks.

Just these days I stumbled over a setting in the Megasquirt software that may help you to get away without a cam sensor. The trick is that they use the MAP sensor to determine if the engine is "sucking air" and thus the "next TDC" must be the ignition TDC. You should check the he...

Easy answer.
Because you trigger from the crank wheel and not from a cam sensor.
In the first case you have a 50:50 chance to have the right cylinder at the right TDC.

BTW that's why people use wasted spark setups as it doesn't matter in this case.

As I don't know the necessary MaxECU settings, I can't tell exactly whats wrong. But you have to remember that this is a crank sensor (not a cam one) and thus you can't tell if it's ignition TDC or not. What I could advise is to start with a wasted spark setup until you have an adequate cam position...

On the EFI RD I'm using Yamaha R6 throttle bodies. These don't have any idle regulation systems except an adjuster screw for the butterfly position. There is a "choke" which simply opens an additional air passage. At first I started to block/open this passage with RGV250 air solenoid valve...

You're welcome.
I'd appreciate getting msq-files, if you happen to use a Megasquirt.
You'll never know, if I'll be up to EFI'ing my VTR, too, when I'm a pensioner...

When people say wedge a penny in the gears I cringe! Did that quite some times in the past. A piece of cloth is often enough to block a gear pair. The downside is that you could rip both of them through that "mill", if the torque is high enough which puts a lot of load in your bearings/sh...

I agree that the answer was in front of your eyes, but you didn't see it in between the load of other information. The Ignitech unit has exactly the same problem: Decode the 12-3 wheel (i.e. count teeth after the missing teeth) In the settings tab there's the info on how to accomplish that : https:/...

There is a 15 deg BTDC mark on the flywheel that you could strobe. It's behind the plug on the left hand generator cover. The one up left, not the middle one. You may find my ignition thread interesting as it deals exactly with dialing in the reference point for the ECU https://www.vtr1000.de/index....

If you need some materials, I'd ask Werner (aka Twinfreak) from the German VTR Forum.
A while ago he tried to sell his gathered parts as a whole:
https://www.vtr1000.de/index.php?thread ... age-vtr-f/

The Ignition is a CDI system with 2 boxes. One controller (ICU) that gets the engine rpm, TPS and all the other stuff and the CDI (converter) that solely creates a spark when it's getting the appropriate input signal. I successfully used 2 different Ignitech units on a VTR1000F. Firstly you could us...

Generally spoken any shift mechanism that works with levers and linkage imposes quite some reaction forces on the shaft. Usually the shaft doesn't have a roller bearing but a simple bronze bush. This will have more friction when under radial force. And to make it worse that involves rather huge port...