I've had my vtr f 1000 for 9 years. I've had a few problems along the way, which I've resolved. Now Ive just give it a oil/filter change, as I do every year but this time I've removed/repainted oil cooler pipes. Same with alternator cover, but the clutch cover just got everywhere masked up and painted with it having the water pump there. fresh antifreeze coolent added too.
My problem now is no oil circulation at all. Nothing at all coming from a removed oil filter on tick over. Oil light on oil filter was fitted full of oil as I always fit it like that. Does anybody have any advice for me? Thanks.
Ps it has been stood for 6 months.
Oil light/flow problem
Re: Oil light/flow problem
The oil pump is driven on a small chain inside the clutch cover.
Did you remove the clutch cover and waterpump when you painted it?
It's probably wise to pop the cover off to inspect the drive chain.
After that, it seems likely to be a blocked cooler.
Did you remove the clutch cover and waterpump when you painted it?
It's probably wise to pop the cover off to inspect the drive chain.
After that, it seems likely to be a blocked cooler.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
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Roger Ditchfield
- Posts: 181
- Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2011 6:55 pm
Re: Oil light/flow problem
In addition to Tony's excellent advice
Drop the oil pan and remove and inspect and clean the oil pick up filter gauze. This may well be blocked with debris and or "gunge"
Regards
Roger
Drop the oil pan and remove and inspect and clean the oil pick up filter gauze. This may well be blocked with debris and or "gunge"
Regards
Roger
Re: Oil light/flow problem
Bloody hell ! you struck lucky there mate, advice from both of the worlds leading VTR experts AT THE SAME TIME priceless ! 
Re: Oil light/flow problem
I did remove the water pump cover and hoses. Realised it was a bigger job than I wanted to take on to remove the clutch cover to repaint. Sheeted and masked up everywhere else but where I wanted to repaint, then painted away.
Today I drained oil,removed pan to find no sludge or debris I do give it yearly oil/filter changes. I then refitted after wiping everything clean. then I took oil filter back off made sure it was full of oil. Spark plugs out, cranked over with no plugs and hey presto my oil sight glass Started to go down and oil pressure light went out refitted everything back as it should and ran her up until electric fan came on. Thanks for your help guys I've got my tank breather with a t piece with 2 pipes coming off the 2 pipes are off loose. I'm not sure if they are suppose to be connected to carbs? Have you any advice on this? Thanks
Today I drained oil,removed pan to find no sludge or debris I do give it yearly oil/filter changes. I then refitted after wiping everything clean. then I took oil filter back off made sure it was full of oil. Spark plugs out, cranked over with no plugs and hey presto my oil sight glass Started to go down and oil pressure light went out refitted everything back as it should and ran her up until electric fan came on. Thanks for your help guys I've got my tank breather with a t piece with 2 pipes coming off the 2 pipes are off loose. I'm not sure if they are suppose to be connected to carbs? Have you any advice on this? Thanks
Re: Oil light/flow problem
Early or late bike.?
Assuming the early one, there are five pipes.
The two large ones go to the fuel tap.
The consistently sized small one goes from the vac takeoff for the rear cylinder to the nine o'clock position stub on the fuel tap.
Two left...
The larger one goes on the larger drain stub under the tank, and runs straight down to exit front left by the oil filter without any joins or tee pieces. Same for the smaller one, which has a size reducer fitted near to the tank.
The only one that needs a tee sometimes is the vac line, which can have a tee fitted with the stub section blocked off under normal conditions. This is used to balance the carbs.
Well done for sorting it, but it would have been good to have found what was causing the problem.
Assuming the early one, there are five pipes.
The two large ones go to the fuel tap.
The consistently sized small one goes from the vac takeoff for the rear cylinder to the nine o'clock position stub on the fuel tap.
Two left...
The larger one goes on the larger drain stub under the tank, and runs straight down to exit front left by the oil filter without any joins or tee pieces. Same for the smaller one, which has a size reducer fitted near to the tank.
The only one that needs a tee sometimes is the vac line, which can have a tee fitted with the stub section blocked off under normal conditions. This is used to balance the carbs.
Well done for sorting it, but it would have been good to have found what was causing the problem.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
Re: Oil light/flow problem
I know it would of been good to find the problem. I think I may have had a loose oil cooler pipe on 1 side but would I have had oil leaks or would it be drawing air so the oil wouldn't pump. That could of been the problem.
About the tank breather. I've got the 2 carb petrol pipes on OK to carbs. The tap vaccuum pipe on OK to rear of the plenum. The larger spill pipe to the floor in belly pan, that leaves the thinner pipe which when sucked has a tank smell. That's the 1 with a t-piece in, 1 goes on tank but the other 2 pipes I can't find there home. From what your saying I can remove the t piece. As its 2 pipes going to the floor .
She's a 1997
About the tank breather. I've got the 2 carb petrol pipes on OK to carbs. The tap vaccuum pipe on OK to rear of the plenum. The larger spill pipe to the floor in belly pan, that leaves the thinner pipe which when sucked has a tank smell. That's the 1 with a t-piece in, 1 goes on tank but the other 2 pipes I can't find there home. From what your saying I can remove the t piece. As its 2 pipes going to the floor .
She's a 1997
Re: Oil light/flow problem
Yep, remove the tee piece and save some weight.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.