How to remove and refit CCT's on the Firestorm

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sirch345
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How to remove and refit CCT's on the Firestorm

Post by sirch345 »

I put this together with a little help from Pete.L :!:

Disclaimer
Every effort has been made to ensure that this guide is as accurate as possible, by following this guide you will doing so at your own risk. If you feel that you do not have the capabilities for the job then please seek the help of a professional mechanic. In no event will this forum or myself be held liable for any damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential damage that may possibly occur.


The problem with not removing the cam covers (well one cover anyway) is you may be at TDC but not on the compression stroke, in which case the cam chain will jump over the cam sprockets and you will then have a lot bigger job on, than just changing the CCT's, as you will have to re-set the valve timing!

The following imo is the quickest and safest way I've found to replace the CCT's

(1) Remove seat.

(2) Disconnect block connector on end of wiring from fuel tank (located under-seat in front of battery box).

(3) Unbolt fuel tank, turn fuel tap off with 8mm open end spanner and disconnect all hoses noting where each one goes first (use masking tape and write on it if you won't remember) then lift off tank (easier to do when tank is nearly empty).

(4) Remove air filter box lid and air filter, then remove the two air intake trumpets, (noting where each one goes as they are different lengths) cover the intake holes of each carb with a clean rag so nothing can fall in there, next remove the screws holding the air box to the carbs and disconnect the breather hoses then remove the air box itself.

(5) Remove the spark plugs and cover holes with clean rags

(6) Remove the two caps from the alternator housing (left-hand side of bike when sitting on it) be very careful removing the center one as it's made of very soft material.

(7) Using a socket and tee bar in the center hole of the alternator cover turn the engine over (anti-clockwise) until the timing mark 'RT' lines up with the mark on the alternator cover which can be seen in the 2nd hole of the alternator cover.

(8 ) Remove the rear cam cover (it's much easier than the front one) also note models with the pair system will have a metal locating dowel between cylinder head and cam cover, not applicable on UK models.

(9) Now looking at the camshafts, the lobes should be facing to-wards each other, if not turn the engine over one full turn (360 degrees) until the 'RT' mark is re-aligned, they should now be facing to-wards each other and the marks RI and RE on the camshaft sprockets should be level with the top part of the cylinder head and will be facing away from each other, you are now ready to remove the rear CCT.

(10) Unscrew the small bolt in the end of the rear CCT and remove it along with the alloy sealing washer. Next turn the screw head inside the CCT clockwise two full turns, lock it off in position using a locking key. The Haynes Workshop Manual shows you how to make a simple locking key. Tape the key in place once you've locked the tensioner off, as you don't want the key jumping out. Next undo and remove the CCT.

(11) Clean off mating surfaces, fit new gasket and new CCT, (they come already retracted) once fully tightened up you can release the CCT plunger making sure it unwinds slowly until full tension is released, then remove tensioning tool and re-fit sealing washer and bolt, then re-fit cam cover. REMEMBER TO TAKE THE METAL CAPS OFF THE OLD CCT PLUNGER HEADS AND FIT ONTO THE NEW ONES, AS THE NEW ONES ARE NOT SUPPLIED WITH THEM!!!!!!.

(12) Now turn the engine over anti-clockwise 450 degrees (one and a quarter turns) until the 'FT' mark lines up with the mark on the alternator cover, you are now ready to remove the front CCT using the same procedure as the rear, without the need to remove the front cam cover.

(13) Re-fit everything else in the reverse order of removal, I used a little thread lock on the screws that hold the base of the air box to the carbs.

Once you have finished re-fitting the CCT's, before putting it all back together turn over the engine 3 or 4 complete turns using the socket and tee bar (anti-clockwise) just to make sure everything is turning freely before you start the engine!


I hope that info is helpful to you!


TIPS:-
(A) I think it best if you try to see if you can undo the center cap in the alternator cover first before starting to strip the rest (remembering what I said about them being of a soft metal).

(B) Make sure you only turn the engine over by hand ANTI-CLOCKWISE otherwise you will be putting extra load onto the CCT's which you really want to avoid.

(C) Also don't forget to turn the fuel tap back on when re-fitting the tank! The later 19ltr fuel tank models don't have a manual fuel tap.

Cheers,

Chris.
Last edited by sirch345 on Thu Sep 20, 2007 7:30 pm, edited 3 times in total.
stevevtr1
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Post by stevevtr1 »

Hi Chris
ready to fire the bike up tomorrow after following your proceedure after fitting a set of Dave Greenwoods springs .
Not having to remove the front cover makes this job sooo much easier.

Cheers
Steve
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sirch345
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Post by sirch345 »

Steve,
I'm glad too hear it was useful :!:

Cheers,

Chris.
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skidonald
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Post by skidonald »

Did mine today, was a doddle following this procedure, cheers Sirch
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sirch345
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Post by sirch345 »

Thanks for the feedback skidonald :!:

Cheers,

Chris.
Simonhep
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CCT fitting advice

Post by Simonhep »

Wish I had read your guidance notes earlier. Am just finishing having to reset cam timings on front and rear cylinders after the rear cylinder cam chain jumped its exhaust sprocket - DOH.

I didn't get the crank lined up with the RT mark, so the lobes were still obviously on the valve buckets and rotated when the CCT was removed. Caused me an extra 4 hours of key hole surgery!!

Also, the cam sprocket marks (RI / RE and FI / FE) are buggers to line up with the cylinder head.

Any advise here??

R

Simon
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sirch345
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Re: CCT fitting advice

Post by sirch345 »

Simonhep wrote:Wish I had read your guidance notes earlier. Am just finishing having to reset cam timings on front and rear cylinders after the rear cylinder cam chain jumped its exhaust sprocket - DOH.

I didn't get the crank lined up with the RT mark, so the lobes were still obviously on the valve buckets and rotated when the CCT was removed. Caused me an extra 4 hours of key hole surgery!!

Also, the cam sprocket marks (RI / RE and FI / FE) are buggers to line up with the cylinder head.

Any advise here??

R

Simon
Apologies for not posting earlier Simon :oops: Probably a little late now, but here goes anyway.

You say you are struggling to line up the (RI / RE and FI / FE) with the top of the cylinderhead, did you remove the cam chain guide at the top of the cam wheels first :?: Or did you mean because the cam chain is slightly stretched the marks don't line up exactly :?:

Chris.
Simonhep
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Post by Simonhep »

Hi Chris

No you're not too late as I am now waiting for 2 exhaust valves from DavidSilver (3 week lead time).

I guess that setting the valve timing marks will be easier to line up as I have stripped down the rear cylinder head ready for the new valves. . . .

Good job I have a 2nd bike to use, bit embarassed really, but my everyday bike is a BMW1200RT.

Still, wouldn't get rid of the VTR for anything, I just love it, but the 'old mans' BMW does the work commuting thing, huge panniers, massive rain protection etc.

Will let you all know when the Firestorm is better again.

R

Simon
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sirch345
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Post by sirch345 »

Simonhep wrote:Hi Chris

No you're not too late as I am now waiting for 2 exhaust valves from DavidSilver (3 week lead time).

I guess that setting the valve timing marks will be easier to line up as I have stripped down the rear cylinder head ready for the new valves. . . .

Good job I have a 2nd bike to use, bit embarassed really, but my everyday bike is a BMW1200RT.

Still, wouldn't get rid of the VTR for anything, I just love it, but the 'old mans' BMW does the work commuting thing, huge panniers, massive rain protection etc.

Will let you all know when the Firestorm is better again.

R

Simon
Hi Simon,
Nothing wrong with a BMW1200RT, for a start it's got you out of a spot :!:

When you're ready to set up the valve timing, line up the front (inlet) cam sprocket first, make sure you keep the cam chain taut from the crank sprocket when you do that. Then line up the rear (exhaust) cam sprocket next :!:

You were very fortunate that it's the rear and not the front cylinder, as the rear (as I expect you've realised) is much easier to get at :!:

You probably already know, but just in case, don't forget you will need to grind in your new valves before you put it all back together :!:

Chris.
stormstreeter
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Post by stormstreeter »

would this be just the same when workin on the front head?
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Post by sirch345 »

stormstreeter wrote:would this be just the same when workin on the front head?
If you need to set the front cylinder up first, then remove the front cam cover. Line up the 'FT' mark with the mark on the alternator cover, at this point the cam sprocket marks (FE and FI) should be level with the top of the cylinder head and facing away from each other. The cam lobes should also be facing away from each other :!: If they are not then turn the engine over ANTI-CLOCKWISE one complete turn (360 degrees) until the 'FT' mark is re-aligned, they will now be facing away from each other :!: The engine rotation is now in the correct position for changing the front CCT.
Now that the front cylinder is set, turn the engine over by hand ANTI-CLOCKWISE 270 degrees (three quarters of a turn) then line up the 'RT' mark with the mark on the alternator cover. You are now ready to remove the rear CCT. If the valve timing needs to be re-set for the rear cylinder (IE. the cam chain has jumped the cam sprockets) then the crankshaft will be in the correct position at this point to do that. Information on the valve timing for the rear cam sprockets is in my first posting above :!:

HTH,

Chris.
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chaz
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Post by chaz »

apart from not reading instructions properly :oops: these are the best instructions to make the job easy, thanks again.
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Post by sirch345 »

Thanks for the feedback Chaz :!:

Cheers,

Chris.

PS. Also for the 'tip' about the oil coming out of the rear tensioner :wink:
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Post by chaz »

Chris, one thing I will mention.
a pair of cranked long nose pliers are usefull to get to the hose clips front left hand side of the air box also when you come to refit airbox, make sure the smaller of the two front hoses (2 inch long) is firmly on the connector. mine came off while moving the airbox base to locate , result in rough running.
also Haynes, tells you to remember which way the trumpets fit, with the little triangles as reference, they will only fit on one place, one way.
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Post by sirch345 »

chaz wrote:Chris, one thing I will mention.
a pair of cranked long nose pliers are usefull to get to the hose clips front left hand side of the air box also when you come to refit airbox, make sure the smaller of the two front hoses (2 inch long) is firmly on the connector. mine came off while moving the airbox base to locate , result in rough running.
also Haynes, tells you to remember which way the trumpets fit, with the little triangles as reference, they will only fit on one place, one way.
Some very good points there Chaz, thanks :!: 8)

I'll leave them here, as anyone keen enough to take on this job will no doubt, read through all the posts in this thread :!:

Cheers,

Chris.
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