Amcq46

Just post charts and set up details.
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Stephan
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Re: Amcq46

Post by Stephan »

cybercarl wrote:
which will be bigger after dropped needles.
unless one goes richer on the pilots and mains. :wink:

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I wouldn´t touch needles in this case, looking forward to my dyno day where I will face these issues online :-)
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VTRDark
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Re: Amcq46

Post by VTRDark »

Stephen don't forget that the lower the AF/R number the richer it is. So the big drop at 5000 is rich so IMO needles need leaning off a clip position or two. This is then going to affect the pilot slightly which could then possibly be richened up either with jet size or mixture adjustment but it's not a bad thing to start off super lean as this will give a smoother transition on power at lower speeds through corners. Then richen up as you go along so at higher speeds it's a little richer which will help with cooling and wear and tear.

In an ideal world it would be nice to have the AFR start at around 14.5 and move in a perfect diagonal line towards 11.5 ish at the opposite end but this will never happen. :lol: And don't forget one also has to go by what feels/rides right. The dyno is only a tool to aid in getting things running perfect.

Note I am not following any particular colour line here as I keep forgetting what's what. I hate multiple dyno readings on one sheet. Why they can't print off separate sheets for each run I don't know.....tight butt money grabbing so and so's. :lol:

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AMCQ46
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Re: Amcq46

Post by AMCQ46 »

Carl,
I like multiple runs on one sheet so I can compare what each is doing and then cross referencing to how it feels when riding the bike. this makes it easier to work out where to go next.

also showing the effect of lloydies tuning mods works better when you overlay to the std engine........ and again it gives ideas what to do next........ my mid range and his top end :D
AMcQ
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VTRDark
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Re: Amcq46

Post by VTRDark »

I would take the single run sheets and overlay them in Photoshop for that. :biggrin :wink: Or better still they could give you a multi run sheet along with single run sheets. Why dyno operators are so stingy on printing a bit of paper I don't know. Or is that they are not computer literate enough and cant work it out on the machine.

That can my days topical moan up...dyno operators :lol: :lol:

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Stephan
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Re: Amcq46

Post by Stephan »

cybercarl wrote:Stephen don't forget that the lower the AF/R number the richer it is. So the big drop at 5000 is rich so IMO needles need leaning off a clip position or two. This is then going to affect the pilot slightly which could then possibly be richened up either with jet size or mixture adjustment but it's not a bad thing to start off super lean as this will give a smoother transition on power at lower speeds through corners. Then richen up as you go along so at higher speeds it's a little richer which will help with cooling and wear and tear.
I still have in mind that 4k rpm is not pilot jets area, what is probably wrong. My concern is, that from 6k bike is running well, and dropping needles can make things worse. But you both are right, better to try it this way.
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VTRDark
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Re: Amcq46

Post by VTRDark »

4k is right on the transitional area so slide cutaway comes into play here. :thumbup:

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Varastorm
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Re: Amcq46

Post by Varastorm »

Here is some food for thought.
One item to mention when dyno tuning is this. RPM does not = CARB POSTION.... and this is where so many dyno tuners fail. For those who have put your machine on a dyno, how long did the bike run once the operator started this operation? 2-3 seconds? max. There is no way you can adjust your idle/pilot or mid range circuits with this type of dyno "pull". Even though the graph/rpm will start out at 1000rpm (or so) then travel up to 10,000+rpm, the throttle position was put at WOT. This is simply how a dyno pull is done. Do NOT confuse the 2000-3000 rpm range on the graph as the Pilot Circuit, and do NOT confuse the 5-7000rpm range as MID RANGE. Cuzz they are not, the entire "pull" was done at WOT, and the only circuit being utilized by your bike was the MAIN CIRCUIT... the rest was just playing 'catch up'. So, if your gonna perform a dyno tune, do it correctly, and you will be very pleased. Let your bike run on the dyno with almost no load, idle to 1500 rpm, and adjust the pilot circuit accordingly. then bring her up to about 5-6000rpm, and adjust your mid range (needle) accordingly. Then, last but not least, WOT, and adjust your main jet for MAX hp/tq.... DONE, and your bike is now fully dyno tuned.....
This is pulled from a guy on a Trx450r forum, he seems pretty knowledgeable about tuning carbs. I think he's nailed it with the above comments.

I though, work down from the main jet> needle height> pilot jet> needle setting.

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 2&start=30
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