Farécla G3 or G6 Rubbing Compund

[VTRDark]

As most of you know I have been re-spraying my Fazer bodywork. I was hoping to get out today and apply the final coats of lacquer as the weather is good. Unfortunately I have been let down on delivery of my cans of Pro XL laquer from autopaint-pro No fault of autopaint and they have gone out their way to help, but fedex have lost items. Grrrr


I have used a 1K acrylic based system and I am wanting to finish off with a rubbing compound to get rid of any orange peel, dust or other surface defects before applying any polish.

After doing some research I think the best product to use is either the Farécla G3 or G6 compound but am unsure which to use and to add to this they do either a paste or liquid.

Now the G3 from what I have been led to believe is designed to be used with a rotatory polisher which I would rather not use. I'm planning on doing this by hand. I have also read that the the liquid is for machine use and the paste for hand use. How true this is I don't know.

Then there's the C6 and C6 Rapid which appears to be a similar product but not as harsh as the G3. I must admit the sound of the rapid appeals to me. But then I have read the the C6 is for a 2K system only.


I am a little confused as to which product I should be using. I have some G3 application pads for applying whichever product I decide to use.

So is there any pro auto painters on the forum that could advice me or has anyone had any experience with these products and the best way to apply them. What other products have others used for this purpose.

Thanks

(:-})

[Wicky]

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For an enhanced high gloss finish on dark colours, follow with G10 Extra Fine Grade Liquid Compound – Two step process to an excellent finish

[VTRDark]

Thanks wicky

Interesting the point they make about it not containing any fillers, which implies there are products on the market which do. Fillers may be better for hand use and will add to it rather than take away. one of my concerns with using a machine (apart from not having one ) is that it may be a bit heavy duty and with my inexperience may burn through the lacquer.

I'm enjoying learning about all this auto painting stuff. I have plenty of experience wet n drying household gloss to a glass like finish which is easy in comparison. The biggest problem I find with the auto work is that the layers are so thin and it's very easy to get the base coats bleeding through, especially on the edges.

(:-})

[Wicky]

The biggest problem with bike bodywork is that its much curvier and with nooks and crannies - not at all like a car bonnet unless you have a GoldWing!

[chric]

farcela have just brought out a new polish carl I'll send you a link when I'm on pc also look into scholl conepts and l send you a discount cofe for autbrite direct who sell it.and if you need a rotary I'll send mine id you need it 

[VTRDark]

Thanks chric I will look them up and have a read through. As for the offer of the rotory, that's very kind of you, but as I mentioned I would rather do it by hand if I can. If I do need to machine polish it I probably could use my drill as it has a speed control.

(:-})

[lloydie]

wax on wax off
it will be that polished it will look like chrome

[pariah]

I,ve been in the motor repair industry most of my life , starting from tea maker to body shop manager to senior estimator for the largest independant repairer in england.

But hey what would i KNOW. My paint works just a HOME jobby kind finish. Bear in mind I live in a flat on the 3rd floor

[VTRDark]

So which one would you recommend and is it worth going over the cleat coat (spray can lacquer) with 1500 grade first or not? I will leave the bodywork at at least a week indoors before applying any finishing compounds.

farcela have just brought out a new polish carl I'll send you a link

Link please. Or is it the Scratch remover you are referring to.

I'm hoping to get out tomorrow and apply the final coats of lacquer as the weather is supposed to be good. Sun, little wind, the only thing against me is the temperature.

(:-})

[chric]

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/s ... p?t=281798

there you go

and scholl
http://www.schollconcepts.com/en/profes ... inish.html

They have a chart somewhere

[VTRDark]

What about the 3M stuff, mega £££ but looks very impressive. I like the way they have colour coded everything. Very well thought out.
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I looked at the new Farecla products, very interesting but I think the scholl S3 Gold looks good. One product to do all and it does not require any water unlike most of the Farecla products.

I am turning towards the 3M now though. I could just buy some 250ml sample bottles. It come across as being the dogs dangles and very quick and easy to apply.

(:-})

[chric]

yeah 3m very good lots still use it but alot use the scholl now aswell or menzerna.
detailing wise anyway
If he ever does classes down your way get a course booked with gordon spot on bloke one of the best
https://www.facebook.com/defined.details

or get on the training day with kds
http://www.kdskeltec.co.uk/training
I do belive hes doing a day soon and hes down your way and hes at top of the game both deatiling and spraying wise seen is work in person
ill find out for you

[VTRDark]

Fook that you seen the prices for a days training. Some intersting guides on the site though.

(:-})

[chric]

Fook that you seen the prices for a days training. Some intersting guides on the site though.

(:-})

he's doing one alot cheaper on dw
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/s ... p?t=282596

[VTRDark]

I've ended up going for the Menzerna bought some 30ml sample pots sample pots which should be more than enough for I need. I also got some pads and microfibre cloths and a drill attachment in case I decide to use some power.

Had some 2000 grit wet n dry turn up this morning. I'm don't know if I'm gonna jump straight in with the wet n dry to get rid of the slight orange peel as I may give these compounds a try first. Not sure, it may be better to give the panels all a quick rub down to get rid of the worst.

Any tips with using the Merzerna range? I'm basically going to start with the most course and work my way through them. Going to use different pads for each compound and a separate microfibre cloths so I don't get any cross contamination.

I will start gently by hand to see how it goes and if it seems like to much hard work I may move on to using a drill. I'm just hoping I can get a really nice smooth high gloss finish by the end of it. Oh' and I bought a sample pot of the Dodo Supernatural as it's high Carnauba content impressed me and I can build layers with it as a good base coat for anything else. I will leave that for at least a month though as I want the paint to fully cure and the high wax content may stop it from fully curing.

Finished the lacquering yesterday so I'm looking forward to all these goodies turning up and I shall start the polishing sometime next week. The panels are all inside in the warm so 5-6 days I would have thought would be enough time for it to dry out and harden off enough.

(:-})