front end clunk!

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fatfreddy000
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front end clunk!

Post by fatfreddy000 »

hi all.
i was disappointed today to find when i hit a few speed bumps and potholes a bit fast that the front end of my firestorm still makes a bit of a cluck or sometimes click, and i sense a tiny tiny movement i think.
i have so far:
rebuilt the forks with new firmer springs and fresh oil.
replaced the knackered headstock bearing with a needle roller kit
stripped and rebuilt the brake callipers
freed up the disc bobbins
checked the wheel bearings..
it's so so much better but theres still a wee clunk.
I've since readjusted the new needle bearings as i thought these would be the problem but just the same..
i am now thinking forks but am not an expert on their innards..
I'm guessing there's some kinds of bushes/sliders in there that could get worn and allow some lateral play?
im also gonna try maxing out the springs see if that helps.
anyone had similar issues or have any ideas.
many thanks..
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Wicky
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Re: front end clunk!

Post by Wicky »

Tapered head bearings have a different torque value to stock.

And yes there are bushes in the front forks that might want replacing > https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/pieces ... STORM.html

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AMCQ46
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Re: front end clunk!

Post by AMCQ46 »

sounds like the taper head bearings to me
it is not uncommon that you don't manage to seat the bearings [especially the bottom inner race] fully home when you first install them, so after the first few rides they bed down and you get a clonk when braking.

reset the tension but don't follow the Haynes instructions, as that is to pretension the std cup & cone style bearings. The tapers don't like preload, so follow the process in here stering beraings
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popkat
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Re: front end clunk!

Post by popkat »

could be your brake discs and pads, the clunk could be pads moving a little in the caliper, the click being movement on the disc bobbins.
Grab the discs one in each hand from the front of the bike and lift up and down, also side to side, there should be just a slight give in them not play. if you have some play then that will probably be the problem. if not too bad it's best to live with it, it won't fail an mot unless it's excessive.


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fabiostar
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Re: front end clunk!

Post by fabiostar »

well this saved me posting the same problem. i had a clunk from the yellow storm,now fitted with a 7r front end, new bearings, rebuilt forks blah blah blah, was doing my head in, tonight i fitted new brake pads...the clunk is no more.. :D :D
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VTRDark
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Re: front end clunk!

Post by VTRDark »

My first thought when I saw the thread title and before opening the thread was headstock bearings. If you have fitted new rollers and they where good then, they may have bedded themselves in by now and need readjusting.
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sirch345
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Re: front end clunk!

Post by sirch345 »

I found my bike needed the new taper roller head bearings tightening up after 500 miles. You need the front end up off the ground, the castellated nuts can't be torqued up to the recommended torque value in the workshop manual, that value is only for the standard ball bearing type steering head bearings.

The top yoke stem nut can be torqued up to the recommended value (103Nm) and I feel this is important to do. With the front wheel suspended you can check the movement of the steering from left to right from the centre-line. You don't want the bars to suddenly drop fully left or right from centre, you need a little resistance when you do that check. You'll know right away if the bearings are done up too tight, as the bars when prompted to turn left or right from the centre-line will stop dead when you remove your hand(s).

If you find the bearings need adjustment, you can raise the clip-on bars up on the fork stanchions (no need to remove fully) undo the steering stem top nut and top yoke stanchion clamp bolts. You can then raise up the top yoke enough to get access to the castellated nuts. You can then tap them around together a tad to make that fine adjustment,

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fatfreddy000
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Re: front end clunk!

Post by fatfreddy000 »

This movement/knocking when I hit potholes particularly is really bothering me now!
Can find no problem with the new tapered headstock bearings, the front wheel, forks brakes, discs etc also seem fine..
Was considering the possibility of loose engine mounts as it's a stressed member (like me!)
Any more of your expert thoughts much appreciated.
Plus, 1 more thing: my new did x-ring chain seems to have tightened (less free play than the recommended 40mm I set it at throughout its rotation) after a hundred miles or so.. Is this possible?
. And what are people's thoughts on correct care of an x-ring chain? Lubrication type and frequency etc.
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Cadbury64
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Re: front end clunk!

Post by Cadbury64 »

Maybe check the wheel bearings again. I had a clonk that I could hear/feel when the forks hit the lock stops on my ST1100, which I put down to the olde-timey antidive bracket moving, but turned out to be the wheel bearings. Sensing wheel bearing movement is harder that I thought, easiest was to jack the wheel up with the mudguard removed, and try and wiggle the wheel in between the fork legs. Just grabbing it and wiggling in the air didn't tell me much, I needed a solid reference point (the forks) to really get a feel for the movement.

Have you checked that your horn is not loose? These can make a surprisingly loud clonk if they are. I also had the front subframe mount come loose on my VFR800, where it bolted to the headstock.
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fatfreddy000
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Re: front end clunk!

Post by fatfreddy000 »

Cadbury64 wrote: Fri Apr 06, 2018 4:25 am Maybe check the wheel bearings again. I had a clonk that I could hear/feel when the forks hit the lock stops on my ST1100, which I put down to the olde-timey antidive bracket moving, but turned out to be the wheel bearings. Sensing wheel bearing movement is harder that I thought, easiest was to jack the wheel up with the mudguard removed, and try and wiggle the wheel in between the fork legs. Just grabbing it and wiggling in the air didn't tell me much, I needed a solid reference point (the forks) to really get a feel for the movement.
My
Have you checked that your horn is not loose? These can make a surprisingly loud clonk if they are. I also had the front subframe mount come loose on my VFR800, where it bolted to the headstock.
Thanks for your thoughts.checking the wheel bearings again is a good call.
It's not the horn, it's something more 'structural" as i can feel the movement go through me when I hit a harsh bump or hole in the road, I just can't quiet pinpoint it. It's horrible though especially putting so much work onto sorting the handling and making everything tight and within tolerance- takes tthe pleasure right out of the ride and feels unsafe too.
It's just had an mot and the mechanic gave the front and rear ends a really good pull about but spotted nothing.
I suppose I could just replace the front wheel bearings as they're pretty cheap and it's a quick job.
Wanna check engine mounts but no specialist tool presently. Think I'll try and fabricate from a socket with an angle grinder- has anybody had a go at this?
Ta all..
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KermitLeFrog
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Re: front end clunk!

Post by KermitLeFrog »

fatfreddy000 wrote: Fri Apr 06, 2018 2:32 am Plus, 1 more thing: my new did x-ring chain seems to have tightened (less free play than the recommended 40mm I set it at throughout its rotation) after a hundred miles or so.. Is this possible?
. And what are people's thoughts on correct care of an x-ring chain? Lubrication type and frequency etc.
The sun's out, the roads are dry, good times are here!
Oooo, a chain lube thread. Suffice it to say there are many different opinions on this. Mine is that the lubrication is sealed in by the O rings and as long as that stays put the rest is cosmetic. And, to keep the O rings in good shape they must be clean and very lightly oiled.

I don't like the look of a rusty chain so I make sure the outside has oil on it as well but that is, as I say, cosmetic.

Beware of sticky chain lube. All that does is attract dirt to stick on the chain and bugger up the O rings.

The white grease on new chains is for storage purposes only. Clean it off before use.
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tony.mon
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Re: front end clunk!

Post by tony.mon »

If you're getting a clunk and the chain tightness is altering then you need to check rear wheel bearings, swingarm bearings and shock linkage bearings.

And yes, you can make a socket which works, but be careful because if you round off the castle nuts they're impossible to remove as they're set into the frame.
But a tool with both sizes on is less than a tenner.

Anyway, the engine mounts won't be the problem.
I've never known them to move.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
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Wicky
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Re: front end clunk!

Post by Wicky »

DID Chain cleaning and lubrication > http://www.didchain.com/chainMaintenance.html

Save old toothbrushes and when it gets mucky give it a good clean with chain cleaner, rinse, dry and reapply lube. I relube about every tankful and clean every few months depending on time of year.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SDOC-100-Mot ... 2119376648
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KermitLeFrog
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Re: front end clunk!

Post by KermitLeFrog »

Wicky wrote: Fri Apr 06, 2018 8:47 am DID Chain cleaning and lubrication > http://www.didchain.com/chainMaintenance.html

Save old toothbrushes and when it gets mucky give it a good clean with chain cleaner, rinse, dry and reapply lube. I relube about every tankful and clean every few months depending on time of year.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SDOC-100-Mot ... 2119376648
Good advice. If you don't want to use special stuff Kerosine is a decent cleaner and gear oil or ATF a decent lubricant. After cleaning get as much Kero off as possible and after lubrication wipe as much oil off as possible.

A messy alternative is a chain oiler. I have one on the Storm and use ATF in it. This acts as a cleaner and lubricant. ATF has low viscosity and when it hits a hot chain it has even less. It flings off taking the dirt with it. The bike gets messy but I can live with that. The Storm chain has been on for 10k miles, has hardly been adjusted and looks like new.
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Wicky
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Re: front end clunk!

Post by Wicky »

DID recommend avoiding kerosene (okay for push bike chains and the days before O and X ring sealed chains) >

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