rear shock linkages

tattoo · Post by **tattoo** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 5:53 pm

Well i can't put it off for much longer so in the next week or so i'll be changing the rear shock linkages for some that i fitted grease nipples too..

My question is...can i remove the linkages without taking the shock off or removing the swingarm and rear header pipe?

Ckennedy · Post by **Ckennedy** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 6:13 pm

You will need to support the bike under the sump. As soon as you start removing the linkages the bike will collapse on itself.

countrymick · Post by **countrymick** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 7:15 pm

ive got mine hanging off the rafters.it helps taking the silencer off for more space

MacV2 · Post by **MacV2** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 7:23 pm

Yeah as said get the rear off the ground, my preferred method is to hang it from a roof beam with two ratchet straps onto the rear subframe.

Take the rear wheel out & cans off to give you lots of room to swing a hammer !

You say your just doing the linkages but if you doing that you might as well go the whole way & take the whole swinger off & re lube the the swingarm bearings & the front bearings in the dog bone too... Why not your half way there with the strip down already...

If you decide not to do the swinger as well then just undo the bottom shock mount bolt & the swinger will come all the way down giving you clear access to the linkage bolts.

I've done a couple of these now & I found that depending on how bad the corrosion is you might have a bit of a struggle trying to get the bolts out with the swinger still attached. You can't beat a good vice & a bloody long extension bar on a stuck nut. Really badly seized & your gonna have to employ the BIG Hammer ! Again bit tough if the swinger is still on the bike.

It really depends on how bad it all is with corrosion, you might get lucky & they all undo nice & easy.

Good luck & keep us posted on progress.

MacV2 · Post by **MacV2** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 7:25 pm

Just to confirm things a little.

You shouldn't need to take off the rear header & if the lower shock bolt comes out no you don't have to take the shock out.

VTRDark · Post by **VTRDark** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 7:42 pm

Personally I would take the swingarm off complete with the linkages and shock. Easy acces to everything and it gives you the chance to give everything a good clean.

(:-})

Diabolus · Post by **Diabolus** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 8:00 pm

still in the middle of my rebuild awiting parts from ds. didnt expect it to be as bad as it was, going to check anually from now on.

countrymick · Post by **countrymick** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 8:07 pm

yep I had no probs with a lump hammer after I got past the stiff nuts

tattoo · Post by **tattoo** » Fri Jan 31, 2014 8:54 am

Hopefully the homemade abba stand i had made will be back from the powdercoaters next week so i can get started..

I did notice the lower mount had orange staining around the bearing seal so i'm expecting it to fight me all the way,i hope not though.....as you say mac, i might as well take the lot off and clean n grease everything...

Note to self....don't wait until these little jobs turn into big ones

bazza696 · Post by **bazza696** » Fri Jan 31, 2014 9:40 am

cybercarl wrote:Personally I would take the swingarm off complete with the linkages and shock. Easy acces to everything and it gives you the chance to give everything a good clean.

(:-})

Carl did you use the standard Abba fixings when fixing to the frame fixings when doing the swing arm or were they the VTR fixing kit.

Was looking at your pictures and noticed that you had to prop the stand up to reach the higher fixing, allowing you to take the swing arm off.

VTRDark · Post by **VTRDark** » Fri Jan 31, 2014 9:54 am

Carl did you use the standard Abba fixings when fixing to the frame fixings when doing the swing arm or were they the VTR fixing kit.

Abba fixing on the left side and a socket in the other. Can't remember the enact size without looking, I ended up using an old Imperial socket IIRC I think 11/16 around 17mm. Wrapped a bit of insulating tape around the base of the socket for a snug fit.

You need the timber to make up the distance between the normal swingarm mounts and the rear engine mounts.

Al's invention http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 63#p173860

It's a little tricky sliding the bits of timber under the stand but once bike is on and up, it is as solid as being on the ground.

(:-})

Diabolus · Post by **Diabolus** » Fri Jan 31, 2014 1:55 pm

My fathering laws ladders came in handy:

just awaiting a shortage on my order of the small needle bearings from that Lancashire seals guy before I can get it back together

simo · Post by **simo** » Fri Jan 31, 2014 3:38 pm

tattoo wrote:Well i can't put it off for much longer so in the next week or so i'll be changing the rear shock linkages for some that i fitted grease nipples too..

My question is...can i remove the linkages without taking the shock off or removing the swingarm and rear header pipe?

How do you fit nipples to the dog bone when there's cage rollers? Or do you dri and tap the pin ?

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rear shock linkages

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