Airbox, CCT Stopper and Valve clearances

[thunderbolt]

I think I will loosen the cam cap bolts a tad and measure again.

If no change, I might crank the motor over on the starter to see if that can make things settle down a bit. I was thinking a bit of grit under the shim or inside the bucket. Cranking the motor over would squeeze any oil out of that area as well if that was taking up part of the measurement.

I am sure my calculations are ok, they can be checked off my sheet displayed earlier if anyone is interested. I measured the original shims with a vernier and a micrometer to come up with the numbers quoted on the aforementioned sheet. Measure twice -- cut once. No cutting, but still measuring twice particularly on things like shims where the size has to be exact to get the correct clearance. The shims that the Honda shop swapped for my original shims were new ones with the sizes stamped on them (1.90 and 2.05) and I measured them as well to make sure they were the correct size.

I am at a loss, I never expected this to happen. I have changed many, many valve shims before - all of them shim over bucket variety though. This is my first attempt at shim under bucket - and it would appear not a very good attempt at that.

I will do as I have suggested above tomorrow afternoon after work and see if anything changes. Otherwise I will get a couple more shims on loan from the Honda shop.

[thunderbolt]

Spot the obvious mistake in the next picture;

Chain running the wrong side of the cam cap. You will have to remove the cap to get the chain the other side of the sticky out bit.
(:-})

Correct Carl,

[VTRDark]

am sure my calculations are ok

I'm sure they are. That's why we have calculators One thing I have noticed is the precision on some Micrometers can change, especially the cheaper ones. It important to first calibrate a micrometer to 0 first which can sometimes slip during use. Also if you have the fine control clicky ratchet stop bit at the end of the handle then only turn this to two or three clicks consistently (same as when calibrated) as over-tightening this can move that point of 0 off from the calibration and consequently give an inaccurate measurement.

http://www.wikihow.com/Use-and-Read-an- ... Micrometer

(:-})

[thunderbolt]

Last night I cranked the motor over quite a bit to attempt to get the valve train to settle down a bit. Hoping the exhaust valve would then come within tolerance. I did not realise how effective the oil pump was on these motors. Before I knew it there was oil dripping (running) off the motor onto the garage floor.

The oil appeared to be coming from a hole under the front exhaust port. Just above the head gasket joint. Can anyone tell me what this hole is for, what it does, where it goes? The hole goes quite deep into the head, at least an inch, maybe more. See pics following. The last picture is taken upside down, just in case anyone is confused by its orientation.







I am not absolutely sure the oil is coming from this hole, it needs to be investigated further.

Thanks for any help offered.

[Wicky]

Your spark plug recess drain hole appears to be working.

[thunderbolt]

After I had cranked the motor as per the above post I rechecked the valve clearances and nothing had changed. So I pulled the camshafts out again from the front cylinder. Getting good at it now.

After cleaning up the oil spill I fitted the new shims to the respective valves.

It will be remembered the RH exhaust valve had a 1.95 shim fitted originally and the clearance on that valve was tight at .25mm and should have been .31mm. I then fitted a thinner shim (1.90), refitted the cams and rechecked the clearance. The clearance actually went the other way. It was then .23mm. So I got the next two thinner shims; 1.85mm and 1.80mm. I put the 1.80 shim in place on the RH exhaust valve. Reassembled the buckets, and camshafts and timed the cams, refitted the top chain guide and CCT.

Rechecked all the valve clearances and all are within the correct tolerance. See sheet below.



The exhaust valve I had trouble with is now .33mm clearance and the intake I had to adjust is now .15mm.

I don't know if anyone uses the shim charts like I do to record the details of shim changes. If anyone would like a blank copy then one is available, just let me know.

Thanks

[AMCQ46]

like wicky said, its a water drain hole to make sure your front sparkplug is not going to get waterlogged.

assuming your plugs are out then the piston has been pumping oil that is in the bore out the plug hole. did you put a lot of oil into the bore?

[thunderbolt]

like wicky said, its a water drain hole to make sure your front sparkplug is not going to get waterlogged.

assuming your plugs are out then the piston has been pumping oil that is in the bore out the plug hole. did you put a lot of oil into the bore?

Thanks Wicky & AMCQ46,

I did not put any oil into the cylinder. I have both valve covers off and cranked the engine and found that the oil being provided to the cams had filled the area on top of the head under the cams and had flowed over and was running down the outside of the head. Maybe some had run over and down into the spark plug recess.

Made a real mess on the shed floor. No oil forced out by the pistons though as it would have been sprayed all over the walls with the speed it was spinning at.

Thanks for replies guys.

[thunderbolt]

Well my Pair System Removal Kit turned up today from the States. I am now only waiting for the two "O" rings that go between the head and valve cover to arrive before I can start reassembly. I will fit the Pair System plates and block off the other apertures at this time.







One more question if I may:

As I have ALL of the cooling system hardware off the bike is there a need to keep the radiators filled with liquid to prevent the internals deteriorating in any way?

Thanks

[lloydie]

No you can empty them they will be fine

[thunderbolt]

No you can empty them they will be fine

Thanks LLoydie

[thunderbolt]

Can anyone fill me in on whether the front area of the crankcase is painted in a silvery type paint to give the impression of alloy or is the surface actually bare alloy.

The reason I ask is that it is filthy from all the oil that flowed over it and it is really messy down there, as well as road grime gathered there. If it is paint I don't want to use something too strong that will lift the paint. Carburettor Cleaner or Brake Cleaner for instance.

These are the bits I am talking about below:








Thanks

[Wicky]

Engine cleaner (gunk) type spray / spirits based solvent will clean it off.

[AMCQ46]

it is a silver paint, so paraffin / diesel will work

[thunderbolt]

it is a silver paint, so paraffin / diesel will work

If I was to use Paraffin (kerosene in Oz I think) or diesel do I just wipe it off with a rag to get a smooth, clean, dry surface after it has been brushed on?