how to adjust manual cam chain tensioner?

[tomvale46]

could anyone inform me how to adjust a manual cam chain tensioner? i understand how it works but not sure how to adjust it correctly???

[Wicky]

Finger tight then a 1/4 turn back. Don't forget some threadlock. Full instructions are in the Workshop knowledgebase section.

[tony.mon]

Although that instruction works, I have a real concern over exactly how tight finger tight is.
I've tried getting a few people to adjust theirs to "finger tight" when I fit manuals to their bikes, and all gauge it differently.

Preferably, you tighten the rear one "finger tight" first, back it off 1/4 turn; and then take off the rear cam cover, and have a visual check that the chain is still slack between the sprockets on the short top run.
Then you have a clear idea whether your own version of "finger tight" is ok, too tight or too loose.
Then use the same amount of force for the front one, which is much harder to get to, lots more work, and takes longer.

[BigVeeGrin]

Although that instruction works, I have a real concern over exactly how tight finger tight is.
I've tried getting a few people to adjust theirs to "finger tight" when I fit manuals to their bikes, and all gauge it differently.

Preferably, you tighten the rear one "finger tight" first, back it off 1/4 turn; and then take off the rear cam cover, and have a visual check that the chain is still slack between the sprockets on the short top run.
Then you have a clear idea whether your own version of "finger tight" is ok, too tight or too loose.
Then use the same amount of force for the front one, which is much harder to get to, lots more work, and takes longer.

how slack?

[tony.mon]

5-10mm maximum deflection at the centre point seems to be about right.

This keeps the cams at their correct timing, but also leaves enough slack for chain tension to increase as the cylinders expand more than the chain.

A chain that's too tight will cause damage, one that's too loose just rattles/ticks a bit.

[sirch345]

A chain that's too tight will cause damage, one that's too loose just rattles/ticks a bit.

Yes, I agree with that,

[Stratman]

I fitted mine nearly 5 years ago now and I don't think I've needed to adjust them once. Granted I only do 3,000 miles a year on this bike, but when I did check them they were fine. Makes you wonder why they bother fitting an automatic one in the first place!

[Geordie]

Yes .. ive wondered the same for ages..
fitted mine which i made up myself out of a redundant set of tensioners and a five inch long coach bolt with a welded nut on the end and a locknut next to the tensioner body.
I basically followed sirchs instructions and tried to lock the old tensioner in position using the wee screwdriver tool. Then measured the distance from tensioner mount flange to the end of the original plunger rubber indent, it came to 57mm if i remember ..
set the new ones to exactly this and bolted them in and then had a feel of how tight by turning the bolt and counting the precise turns until it went slack, then back in until it tightened then further until the same position as I put them in. I think it was about 3 quarters of a turn of my bolts from begining of tightness to the 57mm point, which isnt much ..
That was 21 months ago, about 5000 miles for me and have adjusted the front one to tighten by a flat or two as there seemed to be quite a bit of rattling, which tbh i dont notice much now.
Im afraid despite all the valiant efforts and very well reasoned advise and adjustments folks have made this 'how tight' 'how should it sound' remains a black art and i don't think unless we have some sort of tension measuring device in the system we can ever get it right. It really is a guess and feel kind of thing ..
I did have starting problems for a while and still do tbh (struggling to tunrover, esp when hot), so I will be experimenting with some mild slackening of the bolts to see if that helps. I would advise on measuring the distane of the old ones and only varying from this by literally a flat of the nut or half a turn at the most ..

George

[Wicky]

re Starting problem - check for corrosion on the starter motor bolt under the rubber hood.

Re finger tight

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 30#p167730

http://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/kn ... post316443

[macfreebe]

I got a set of mcct from bazza and fitted them the same as you ,mine measured at 56.5 so i set bazza ones at this.put the bike back together and seemed to be ok untill i went to start the bike it would turn over very slowly and in the end starter connection burned out.stripped bike back again and set tensioners finger tight this time and put a new bolt in the starter .The bike starts straight away from hot or cold now .Hope this helps

[tony.mon]

Where you went wrong is the "finger-tight" bit.
I was setting one this afternoon, and what was needed, looking at the top chain run, was finger tight less half a turn.

Finger tight is looking like too tight to me....

[leevtr]

I'm no mechanic by any means, but after reading this thread, got me thinking.

Assuming you are changing cct's as prevention ie. the current auto's are still working fine, is it not possible to remove the cam cover and check the tension of the chain before removing the old tensioner, giving you a good guide as to where to go with adjusting the manual once fitted.

Would make sense, or am I missing something.

[AMCQ46]

1) make sure you are at firing tdc before you remove the CCT.....if not the chain will jump onthe cam.
2) auto tensioner will hold the chain tighter as they can relax back a bit under spring tension, so don't use them as a guide on how to set the manual ones. Set them so there is between 7 and 10mm slack on the top chain run (with the guide removed) and based on how that feels to set, then try and set the front one to the same bolt tension.
3) if in doubt a little more slack and a rattle is better than too tight....too tight will damage the cam bearings when there is no oil on start up...you will hear a squeal and the starter will be slower turning over.

[leevtr]

1) make sure you are at firing tdc before you remove the CCT.....if not the chain will jump onthe cam.
2) auto tensioner will hold the chain tighter as they can relax back a bit under spring tension, so don't use them as a guide on how to set the manual ones. Set them so there is between 7 and 10mm slack on the top chain run (with the guide removed) and based on how that feels to set, then try and set the front one to the same bolt tension.
3) if in doubt a little more slack and a rattle is better than too tight....too tight will damage the cam bearings when there is no oil on start up...you will hear a squeal and the starter will be slower turning over.

I better stick to carpentry !!!!