bleeding

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scottyhatchi
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bleeding

Post by scottyhatchi »

Has anyone had problems removing air from cooling system if so any help on how it was resolved ? I've triued and tried and bike still overheating like mad still seems I have air in system
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Wicky
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Re: bleeding

Post by Wicky »

Did you find the 'oil' leak?

HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL: VTR1000F (Superhawk) Firestorm Service Manual PDF > http://www.mediafire.com/?5u5qsfqgh9f9ejg

This service manual describes the service procedures for the VTR1000F.
Follow the Maintenance Schedule (Section 3) recommendations to ensure that the vehicle is in peak operating condition.

6. COOLING SYSTEM

TROUBLESHOOTING
Engine temperature too high
• Faulty temperature gauge or thermosensor
• Thermostat stuck closed
• Faulty radiator cap
• Insufficient coolant
• Passages blocked in radiator, hoses or water jacket
• Air in system
• Faulty cooling fan
• Faulty fan motor switch
• Faulty water pump

Image

REPLACEMENT / AIR BLEEDING

:!: When filling the system, place the motorcycle on its side stand on a flat, level surface. :!:

Remove the front fairing (page 2-3).
Remove the radiator cap.
Disconnect the lower radiator joint hose at the right radiator by loosening the hose band screw and drain the coolant from the system.
Remove the drain bolt and drain the coolant from the front cylinder.
Disconnect the radiator siphon tube from the filler neck and drain the coolant from the reserve tank.
Connect the radiator lower joint hose and siphon tube, and install the drain bolt with a new sealing washer.

Fill the system with recommended coolant up to the filler neck with the motorcycle on its side stand.

Bleed air from the system as follows:

1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
Start the engine and let it idle for 2-3 minutes.

2. Snap the throttle 3-4 times to bleed air from the system.
3. Stop the engine and add coolant up to the filler neck.
4. Install the radiator cap.
Fill the reserve tank to the upper level line with the motorcycle upright on a flat. level surface.
Install the front fairing (page 2-3).
It may be that your whole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others.

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scottyhatchi
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Location: south shields

Re: bleeding

Post by scottyhatchi »

Yes I have a haynes manual u have simply forwarded wat I have infront of me I sed I've tried bleeding yet still have air lock I have not guessed how to do it I've done as instructed
scottyhatchi
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Location: south shields

Re: bleeding

Post by scottyhatchi »

I don't mean to sound cjheeky my apoligies just get to many people who just state trhe manual even tho the manual isn't always what's needed its people that know wat they talkling about people who have encountyered similar problems that are oif help haynes manual is good yes but isn't perfect and is not by far the final solution to any problem
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Wicky
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Re: bleeding

Post by Wicky »

Did you find the 'oil' leak?

If you've drained, filled to required quantity & bled the cooling system according to the manual and all your hoses are tight and not leaking (that's how air can enter the system), then have you worked through and tested the other causes of overheating listed in the Troubleshooting section.
Last edited by Wicky on Sat Feb 23, 2013 12:03 am, edited 2 times in total.
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scottyhatchi
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Location: south shields

Re: bleeding

Post by scottyhatchi »

Sure did I'm waring the dunce hat for that one . Didn't tighten the drain bolt haha was leaking from that lol
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Wicky
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Re: bleeding

Post by Wicky »

Oil or coolant?
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scottyhatchi
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Re: bleeding

Post by scottyhatchi »

Oil drain bolt for oil
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Wicky
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Re: bleeding

Post by Wicky »

Fine - did you top the oil up?

Back onto coolant - Is the fan working? What's the temp gauge indicating?

Going back a bit, assuming you have no coolant leaks and thus no air entering your system
've got the thermostat out its buggered I'm not sure if its jammed open or jammed closed but put in hot water and it didn't move
Have you tried replacing the thermostat?
did flush it went changed it but seems one side is mucky and one side is clean now like water isn't going to one side but that wud say thermostat was jammed closed but I'm sure its jammed open if jammed open does this cause over heating ? I wudda thought it wudnt as it is allowiong it to still circulate
Image
Last edited by Wicky on Sat Feb 23, 2013 12:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
It may be that your whole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others.

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scottyhatchi
Posts: 265
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 5:41 pm
Location: south shields

Re: bleeding

Post by scottyhatchi »

Oil level fine thermostat has been replaced alough previous was jammed open anyway so wudnt have been problem and fan switch is buggered so needs replacing but fan isn't the proiblem a 9 miles at 90 mile per hour plus down motorway and overheating into red shudnt happen even if fan was working fan is more for slow riding and standing still for wen air isn't getting blasted on the bike
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Wicky
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Re: bleeding

Post by Wicky »

Does it overheat at more sedate speeds? Lean Mixture?

Remind us again what work you've done rebuilding the bike - You had the engine out to paint the frame - Is it the same engine from before your crash or is it a secondhand one transplanted in.
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scottyhatchi
Posts: 265
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 5:41 pm
Location: south shields

Re: bleeding

Post by scottyhatchi »

Bike was working perfect until ice came and drained coolant flshed and reflled so it has to be air lock or damage caused from no anti freeze during ice n snow
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Wicky
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Re: bleeding

Post by Wicky »

thermostat has been replaced
Did you drain the coolant again to replace the dodgy thermostat after you found it overheating, and then refill and bleed as per the manual?

New or second hand thermostat?
Hi everyone I'm having a problem . I did an oil and filter change and then went out on bike engine over heating to max in like only 1 mile of riding
Bike was working perfect until ice came and drained coolant flshed and reflled

So you did the rebuild , it ran fine (after finding a way to feed it petrol if I remember the thread correctly ) and then you stored it with only water in the cooling system over winter and then you did the 50/50 coolant, oil & filter change and then it immediately began to overheat. Did I miss anything out or put it in the wrong order
Last edited by Wicky on Sat Feb 23, 2013 1:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
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VTRDark
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Re: bleeding

Post by VTRDark »

Sump plug :lol: :lol: nevermind I'm sure we have all done it at some stage.

Are you sure the fan switch is buggered. The fan wont cut in if there is not sufficient fluid in the system to reach the thermo sensor which is the plug to to the rear of the right rad. I had slimier problems when re-filling BSM cooling system.

To bleed you basically need to do what it says in the manual but ignore their 2min sh1t, just let it run. Obviously don't let it overheat if the temp needle gets to high. You should let it run right up to operating temp and use the old fashioned method of squeezing hoses, this will push any air back up through the system and out the open rad cap (so leave the rad cap off) you will also feel the pipes getting hot as the system starts to warm up and circulate. It will take a bit longer to warm up if your thermostat is stuck open though, so have some patience. Also keep an eye on the level i the rad and top up if necessary. You can also give the bike a rev and at the same time watch the fluid at the top of the rad circulate.

Most important hoses to squeeze are hoses on both rads especially the ones at the bottom. Also do the ones that cross the front of the engine above the oil cooler. Basically any hose you can get to, but the ones I just mentioned are the main ones. If those hoses get to hot to touch then you know the bike has been running long enough and everything is circulating. Give the bike another rev, check the fluid is circulating at the top of the right rad (as the cap is still off) switch off engine. Have a fag, coffee or whatever. Let the bike cool a bit. :wink: then top up rad, stick the rad cap back on and warm the bike back up to temp or until you hear the fan kick in. Switch engine off and top up expansion bottle.

Don't forget to keep an eye on the temp gauge and never let the bike get to the point of overheating at any stage. If it does switch off and let it cool for a bit and start again.

(:-})
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VTRDark
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Re: bleeding

Post by VTRDark »

You may want to check the fan defo does work by running a couple of wires from the switch on the front of the right rad. Just unplug the connector block, attach a couple of wires to the plug on the fan side and stick the other ends on the battery and the fan should spin. BTBH I think the problem is not the fan but the fan thermo sensor. Problem being not enough fluid circulating around for it to sense the temp and switch the fan on. :thumbup:


Did you check some of my more recent posts in your other thread. You said that that the water was disappearing at one stage
where's it all gone
have you thoroughly checked the cooling system for leaks, all hoses tight, jubilee clips tightened up, also check the water pump seal. I will mention the manual here as it has good pics, so have a look in the manual, but at the front of the engine under the rad, water pump area, there is a hole in the engine.water pump area to check for any water leaking from the seal there. I think the cooling system drain plug is down there too :think: Check this area out at the same time your warming the bike up and going around squeezing hoses and make sure you have no leaks there.

(:-})
Last edited by VTRDark on Sat Feb 23, 2013 1:26 am, edited 3 times in total.
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