Airbox, CCT Stopper and Valve clearances

thunderbolt · Post by **thunderbolt** » Thu Aug 14, 2014 9:50 am

I am stripping the VTR to do the CCT stopper mod and check valve clearances. Well I have got as far as the airbox lid and am having trouble getting it off. I have removed the 8 screws and can raise the lid at the rear but cannot get it to come out at the front. There is like a big rubber looking block that fits down under where the two bolts hold the front of the tank, where the alloy frame rails come together.

Is there a trick to it? Am I missing something here?

Are there screws I have missed, maybe from underneath?

Help please -- I have come down from the shed to get this info -- it is now holding me up from doing any further work.

Thanks

lloydie · Post by **lloydie** » Thu Aug 14, 2014 9:58 am

If you have removed the two front screws then just pull it off

AMCQ46 · Post by **AMCQ46** » Thu Aug 14, 2014 10:05 am

like lloyde says, there is a screw each side of the big rubber air intake at the front. if you have them out then you just need to wrestle with the lid to get it up and back out of the gap at the front.

Post by **sirch345** » Thu Aug 14, 2014 10:25 am

It is a snug fit there at the front. I find lifting the lid up at the back end with the air filter and pulling it back it comes out easiest,

Chris.

VTRDark · Post by **VTRDark** » Thu Aug 14, 2014 10:45 am

As Chris said pull the lid off along with the airfilter at the same time. It will take a little force and some side to side wiggling but the snorkel bit at the front will pop out.

(:-})

thunderbolt · Post by **thunderbolt** » Thu Aug 14, 2014 11:27 am

Thanks Guys,

I am impressed. 4 replies within 1 hour. And from the Gurus as well. That is REAL service. And one (Lloydie within 8 mins)

Well, I did manage to get it out. I then realised that I should have tried to get the air cleaner part out as well at the same time. It's always the hardest the first time.

I bet it's real old struggle to get it back in the way it came out -- "Looking forward to that". haha

It's going to be fun trying to get all the hoses attached to the bottom part of the airbox when putting it back together, especially the front hoses from underneath.

BTW when I removed the lower part of the airbox I found that one of the studs/spacers that holds the two plates together that support the carbs was loose. Well more than loose, one nut had come off and was being held in between a couple of hoses. It's all tightened up now.

Do I have to take the carbs off to remove the CCTs, especially the front one? If so do they pull out as one unit or do they need to be separated?

I bet they are really hard to get back on if they come out as a single unit. Because of the angle of the intake boots. With an ILF at least the carbs are all pushing in on the same plane. Any advice?

I also got the spark plugs out tonight as well. Iridium ones and the colour of them looked good. It's a real struggle to get the front one out. Couldn't do it with tools from the tool kit, the Honda spark plug spanner fitted in ok but the long hex was below the level of the head and I couldn't get a spanner on it. Maybe I didn't insert it properly -- it was bloody dark at the time. That's it for tonight. Time now to do some reading -- on Honda stuff of course.

Thanks for all the help so far -- stay tuned as I will no doubt have more questions as I delve into this Honda motor and expand my experience.

Cheers

VTRDark · Post by **VTRDark** » Thu Aug 14, 2014 12:35 pm

Getting the airbox lid in is the the exact opposite, a little push and wiggle along with the filter at the same time. As for the front hoses under the airbox. I usually attach the bigger hose (breather) first before screwing the box back down to the carbs. I don't worry about the spring clip as I have the box off so many times and it's tight enough with a push fit! Then line up and push the front smaller hose (on the carb) with the airbox and push into place. Then move onto the rears. Be careful not to pop the front hoses back off when lifting the box to do the rears. If your lucky like me, you may be able to get your hand around the front spur on the frame and under the front of the airbox and feel around to make sure everything is still connected. I could even put the spring clip form there too, but don't bother.

Do not split the carbs, they will come off as one unit. Check out the link at the bottom of the following for carb removal
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 14#p238578

As for getting them back on http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... ilit=carbs

You will wont to remove the carbs if taking the front cam cover off, especially if checking valve clearances also. The plastic cowl under the carbs needs to be removed. You could possibly force it off past the carbs but it wont be as easy as removing the carbs first as should be done. Not only that it gives you the chance to give the carbs a good once over for any other loose/broken bits. Good opportunity to lube the cables properly as well.

(:-})

VTRDark · Post by **VTRDark** » Thu Aug 14, 2014 12:40 pm

Do I have to take the carbs off to remove the CCTs, especially the front one? If so do they pull out as one unit or do they need to be separated?

As your asking the question, thought I better check that you have seen the following.

Manual Cam Chain Tensioner Installation Guide (MCCT's)

(:-})

thunderbolt · Post by **thunderbolt** » Thu Aug 14, 2014 1:15 pm

cybercarl wrote:Getting the airbox lid in is the the exact opposite, a little push and wiggle along with the filter at the same time. As for the front hoses under the airbox. I usually attach the bigger hose (breather) first before screwing the box back down to the carbs. I don't worry about the spring clip as I have the box off so many times and it's tight enough with a push fit! Then line up and push the front smaller hose (on the carb) with the airbox and push into place. Then move onto the rears. Be careful not to pop the front hoses back off when lifting the box to do the rears. If your lucky like me, you may be able to get your hand around the front spur on the frame and under the front of the airbox and feel around to make sure everything is still connected. I could even put the spring clip form there too, but don't bother.

Do not split the carbs, they will come off as one unit. Check out the link at the bottom of the following for carb removal
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 14#p238578

As for getting them back on http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... ilit=carbs

You will wont to remove the carbs if taking the front cam cover off, especially if checking valve clearances also. The plastic cowl under the carbs needs to be removed. You could possibly force it off past the carbs but it wont be as easy as removing the carbs first as should be done. Not only that it gives you the chance to give the carbs a good once over for any other loose/broken bits. Good opportunity to lube the cables properly as well.

(:-})

Carl, I guess when removing the carbs I will need to take the throttle cables and choke cables off. Any tips here. Also are there are coolant hoses going to the carbs that need to be disconnected to get the carbs off. Are the carbs lifted right off the bike or are they left connected via the throttle cables, etc and just put aside but left on the bike.

I have more questions but will post some pics tomorrow so I can explain. I'm off to bed now. Thanks again.

Thanks for all the info

thunderbolt · Post by **thunderbolt** » Thu Aug 14, 2014 1:20 pm

Carl, I just had a look at those links you sent me. GREAT information. Thanks again for the valuable assistance.

VTRDark · Post by **VTRDark** » Thu Aug 14, 2014 1:51 pm

Just be careful with the plastic nuts/elbows on the choke cables at the carb end. Don't be tempted to undo these with the carbs mounted to the bike. It's loads easier to disconnect the choke at the frame and slide the cables through between the smaller coolant hose. Note how each cable is run.

10mm spanner and a finger for throttle cables, simples. Note the return (bottom cable) does not have the extra locknut so you don't mix them up on fitment.

(:-})

Post by **sirch345** » Thu Aug 14, 2014 9:59 pm

If you have a mobile phone or digital camera, my tip is to take photo's as you go, especially things like how the throttle cables are routed and fixed, plus how the plastic tray that sits under the carbs and those two small infill pieces of the tray fit. Taking photo's as you go can be invaluable when you can't remember how that part fitted exactly, it's like recording what you are doing,

Chris.

thunderbolt · Post by **thunderbolt** » Fri Aug 15, 2014 2:02 am

sirch345 wrote:If you have a mobile phone or digital camera, my tip is to take photo's as you go, especially things like how the throttle cables are routed and fixed, plus how the plastic tray that sits under the carbs and those two small infill pieces of the tray fit. Taking photo's as you go can be invaluable when you can't remember how that part fitted exactly, it's like recording what you are doing,

Chris.

Thanks Chris, I have been taking pics as I go. Especially of all the myriad of hoses and stuff. Good tip though on the stuff you mentioned. I can see how those panels fitting together properly could be a problem.

Is it best to remove the carbs from the rubber boots first and then undo all the bits that are attached to them, e.g. throttle and choke cables, coolant hoses, or can these bits be removed from the carbs first.

Sorry for ALL the questions when there is a fair bit written on this on the forum. I just want to do things right and the easiest way possible being guided by the comments of those more experienced than me on this. And as I live where I do, then there is no physical help available to me from others. And as I really love riding this bike I don't want it off the road any longer than possible due to my stuff ups. I've already broken a tab off the fairing through my inexperience. All fixed now though. That's another skill I've learnt, plastic welding using zip ties.

The stage I am up to so far. What is the gadget at 6 o'clock in the photo below with the 3 hoses coming off it? What does it do?

Thanks all.

Kev L · Post by **Kev L** » Fri Aug 15, 2014 7:31 am

That's part of the PAIRS system, enviromental protection gobledegook. Get a couple of blanking caps for the heads and bin it.
Be careful with the choke cables the plastic nuts holding them in the carbs have a habit of breaking.

lloydie · Post by **lloydie** » Fri Aug 15, 2014 7:33 am

That's the pairs valve and if you fit race cans the pairs system is a must to remove and bin unless you like it popping and banging every time you close the throttle .

It's easier to remove the carbs from the rubbers ,undo the top clamp on both and pull them to one side as I've found this easier .
Then remove all cables an hoses to the carbs

VTR1000.ORG

Airbox, CCT Stopper and Valve clearances

Airbox, CCT Stopper and Valve clearances

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