Roger Says...Wait he did?

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bazza696
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Re: Roger Says...Wait he did?

Post by bazza696 »

I confirm Rogers comments. From my experience that there are springs that have corroded and some that have snapped. The snapping has been attributed to only surface treating the outside of the spring rather than throughout, this can be seen on the way the spring snaps and the colour of the spring, or it could be to do with the high heat levels the springs experiences, without the cooling properties of the oil.

One other problem that no one discusses is with the chain its self. I had read an article somewhere that we shouldn't be tensioning the chain in the way it's done now. This is because the chain is made to go round the sprockets, but when you change its direction and make it bend back on its self, this can cause excess wear.

So in an ideal world, we need to be pulling the cam chain out rather than push in, so the chain doesn't have to keep changing direction.
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KermitLeFrog
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Re: Roger Says...Wait he did?

Post by KermitLeFrog »

bazza696 wrote: Thu Sep 20, 2018 12:18 pmOne other problem that no one discusses is with the chain its self. I had read an article somewhere that we shouldn't be tensioning the chain in the way it's done now. This is because the chain is made to go round the sprockets, but when you change its direction and make it bend back on its self, this can cause excess wear.

So in an ideal world, we need to be pulling the cam chain out rather than push in, so the chain doesn't have to keep changing direction.
I think you need to be careful here. It's one of those memes that sound like common sense but does not stand up to more analysis. Power transmission chains are complicated things.

Both the bushes and the pins are fixed in their respective side plates. Wear happens between the bush and the pin. The amount of wear will be a function of the pressure of the pin against the bush (determined by the tension in that part of the chain) and the amount of movement (maximum around the smallest sprockets and minimum in a straight length. Further complicated by varying tension due to valve springs, chain whip and the fact that the sprockets distribute their load over multiple teeth so when the chain is most bent it's at it's minimum tension.

Coming back to the original question. The chain needs to be tensioned and this requires it to move away from a straight line. If the chain is moved out the pins move against the bushes in the same rotation as when they start to go around the sprockets. If the chain is pushed in this same amount of movement happens between a different area of pin and bush. Thus distributing the wear.

This is all quite simplistic as the real design parameters are different, especially for a chain running in an oil bath and the simplest thing is the make the chain a little larger than required, thus losing a small amount of HP but have a nice big factor of safety against chain wear or breakage.

Sorry for the long post but these things interest me.
"I spent a lot of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered" (George Best, RIP)
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bazza696
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Re: Roger Says...Wait he did?

Post by bazza696 »

I think we are lucky that we can talk about this, a large proportion of poor cagers have a belt rather than chains.

I like the Suzuki design, it has a ratchet design on the earlier bikes, but hydraulic later on I believe.
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sirch345
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Re: Roger Says...Wait he did?

Post by sirch345 »

KermitLeFrog wrote: Thu Sep 20, 2018 4:33 pm
bazza696 wrote: Thu Sep 20, 2018 12:18 pmOne other problem that no one discusses is with the chain its self. I had read an article somewhere that we shouldn't be tensioning the chain in the way it's done now. This is because the chain is made to go round the sprockets, but when you change its direction and make it bend back on its self, this can cause excess wear.

So in an ideal world, we need to be pulling the cam chain out rather than push in, so the chain doesn't have to keep changing direction.
I think you need to be careful here. It's one of those memes that sound like common sense but does not stand up to more analysis. Power transmission chains are complicated things.

Both the bushes and the pins are fixed in their respective side plates. Wear happens between the bush and the pin. The amount of wear will be a function of the pressure of the pin against the bush (determined by the tension in that part of the chain) and the amount of movement (maximum around the smallest sprockets and minimum in a straight length. Further complicated by varying tension due to valve springs, chain whip and the fact that the sprockets distribute their load over multiple teeth so when the chain is most bent it's at it's minimum tension.

Coming back to the original question. The chain needs to be tensioned and this requires it to move away from a straight line. If the chain is moved out the pins move against the bushes in the same rotation as when they start to go around the sprockets. If the chain is pushed in this same amount of movement happens between a different area of pin and bush. Thus distributing the wear.

This is all quite simplistic as the real design parameters are different, especially for a chain running in an oil bath and the simplest thing is the make the chain a little larger than required, thus losing a small amount of HP but have a nice big factor of safety against chain wear or breakage.

Sorry for the long post but these things interest me.
They interest me too, so thanks for posting that :thumbup:
bazza696 wrote: Thu Sep 20, 2018 4:40 pm I think we are lucky that we can talk about this, a large proportion of poor cagers have a belt rather than chains.

I like the Suzuki design, it has a ratchet design on the earlier bikes, but hydraulic later on I believe.
If our bikes had cam belts wouldn't that make them Ducati's :lol:

On a more serious note, we have the better deal with our bikes having cam chain's regardless of the CCT problems, rather than cam belts IMHO,

Chris.
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Karnos
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Re: Roger Says...Wait he did?

Post by Karnos »

Checked my bike today 02 model and it appears to have the Acct's on still.
Don't know if the stopper mod was done or how I would tell ?
Nearly 63000 UK miles on her and she sounds great.
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MacV2
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Re: Roger Says...Wait he did?

Post by MacV2 »

Karnos wrote: Sun Nov 25, 2018 6:05 pm Checked my bike today 02 model and it appears to have the Acct's on still.
Don't know if the stopper mod was done or how I would tell ?
Nearly 63000 UK miles on her and she sounds great.
You wont unless you strip them down...

Might as well fit a set of Manuals just for peace of mind...
Making up since 2007, sometimes it's true...Honest...
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Karnos
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Re: Roger Says...Wait he did?

Post by Karnos »

Seems to be the thing to do.
Will order up a set.
Have read all the install info on here but it still scares the s**t outta me incase I mess up lol
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alanfjones1411
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Re: Roger Says...Wait he did?

Post by alanfjones1411 »

Follow the instructions.Take your time and spin it over by hand to make make sure nothings hitting anything it shouldn't before you press the starter.Even I managed it but took me all day.There's plenty of help here if you get stuck.Good luck. :thumbup:
SO WHEN DOES THIS OLD ENOUGH TO KNOW BETTER KICK IN
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fabiostar
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Re: Roger Says...Wait he did?

Post by fabiostar »

Karnos wrote: Sun Nov 25, 2018 7:13 pm Seems to be the thing to do.
Will order up a set.
Have read all the install info on here but it still scares the s**t outta me incase I mess up lol
it scared the sh1t outa me at first, but take your time and its actually very easy. :clap: :clap:
the older i get,the faster i was :lol:
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Karnos
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Re: Roger Says...Wait he did?

Post by Karnos »

Ok,ty for the replies,
Think I will try it.
See lots of opinions on Mcct here what do I go for ??
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Wicky
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Re: Roger Says...Wait he did?

Post by Wicky »

It may be that your whole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others.

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