HELP PLS - Carb removal re CCT replacement

[consul]

So....I loosesned the carb rubber clamps, and no matter how I wiggle and pull there is no movement. I managed to get a flathead screwdriver under the rear rubber thinking that might help loosen it, but I am shoving and wiggling and pulling the carbs every which way so hard the race stand is literally wobbling and I fear it will collapse on me. I know from experience these can be hard to remove on in line 4s, (and much worse to put backon ), but am I missing something?
Lastly - as a final resort if I cannot get them off, can I take off the rear valve cover again, get it to TDC, rotate the engine 450 degrees, and just remove the old front tensioner and put in the new manual one, or do I still risk the chain jumping a cam tooth? I am at my wits end with this carby issue and if I have to take it to a mechanic, I shudder to think what the bill will be at $150 an hour labour. Tricks, tips, did I miss something? (I even tried loosening the lower rubber clamps as well - no good though). I know it's late in blighty, but grateful for any help please.
Consul

[consul]

apologies all - I shuold not have started a new post - this is a continuation of my existing issue

[Wicky]

"take off the rear valve cover again, get it to TDC, rotate the engine 450 degrees, and just remove the old front tensioner and put in the new manual one,"

Can do 'How to install MCCT' > https://share.getcloudapp.com/WnuGgxNr

Then you'll need to adjust tension on the front CCT 'blind' by tightening it up finger tight and backing it out ¼ —1/8 turn. Just make absolutely sure you are TDC on the front by referencing timing marks and rear cam lobe position!

Did you put some blue hylomar / silicone on the threads of the tensioner thread? this prevents any later annoying oil leak.

re . Fairing removal should be a 10 minute job. 2 dome nuts for mirrors, 2 bolts for fairing and yes a fiddly PIA plastic retainer on inside front lower (I ditched this after removal) put a towel on the front mudguard and gently ease the fairing off to rest on while you undo the riding light / headlight connections. Careful when splaying the fairing to get it past the mounts when pulling it forward. However you don''t need to remove fairing to install CCTs - but handy to have experience of doing it under your belt for replacing the headlight bulb.

[MacV2]

Use a bit of lumber to pry them off... On re install use some lube* on the rubbers...

Rubbers will go hard with age either repalce with new or soften up...

* Lube use something rubber safe !

[AMCQ46]

If you don't or can't take the carbs off, or don't want to take the front cover off, there is a way to do the front CCT.

You need to take the back cover off again, and set to tdc, then you need to re set the CCT to get the number of turns to back off for correct tension

At rear TDC, turn the CCT in as tight as you can without tools, then count how many flats of the nut you need to turn back out to get 7mm SLACK on the Center of the chain.

Then rotate engine correct direction by 450 degrees (check that is correct as I am doing from memory) and you are at front tdc.

Take out CCT, fit manual CCT and tighten as much as you can without tools then back of the exact number of flats that you did on the rear.

This is a rushed answer, I have written this method up much better somewhere on the forum, but it gives you the basics.

Also make sure you put a dam of thread lock on the main CCT thread where it sits in the body of the tensioner, this will make sure it doesn't leak oil and also will ensure it doesn't rattle loose. The locknut by its self isn't enough!

[consul]

Thank you to all of you guys - you are truly helpful and this is an awesome site. I ended up spending 20 minutes carefully lifting the rear rubber with a screwdriver and spraying as much WD40 as I could get between it and the carb - hoping by morning I may be able to get the rear off, making the front a doddle. Failing that I am going to take the rear valve cover off again, get to TDC and do the 450degree TDC rotation to ensure the front is at TDC. I was just under the impression the cam chain can still move a tooth or two using this method. If it is completely safe bar the guess work on tension and the chain won't jump teeth, (grateful for any confirmation here), seems like a pretty good option cause I know from previous experience getting carbs back in rubbers is usually no easier or fun than getting them out.

Thanks again everyone
Consul

[consul]

P.S - I used a LOT of low strength threadlock (blue) on the lock nut on the rear manual CCT but have good sockets etc.

[consul]

So I finally managed (after 3 hours) to do the 450 degree front CCT install. But not before I had it fully siliconed, fitted, one allen bolt fitted and I dropped the 2nd somewhere in the bowels under the carbs (not in any open engine parts). Luckily the local super hardware store had the exact size and allen head tops, and I bought an allen socket (trying to access in there with an allen key is near impossible - hence me dropping the 2nd bolt). For anyone else that is going to try this mod, can I suggest you do a little bit of tinkering first, and spend $$ on the right tools (i.e. not allen keys). Everyone makes it sound like a breeze, but for the first time it really isn't - it's a right pain and nothing goes as the instructions say. I'm leaving it for today (fairing and tank still off etc), and will do that next weekend. Thank you to all for putting up with my whinging ineptitude. I just think v twins are made for japanese fingers only. Happy to do most anything on an in-line 4, but this is something else. I am yet to install the new front rotors and pads, as well as chain and sprockets. The latter I may pay a mechanic to do (I had a bad experience once and cut the chain too short -- plus all that muck at the front spocket - no thanks).
Cheers again, especially to VTR dark, wicky man, and MacV2. Legends, all of you - just wish you were here in Oz, then I could buy you a Corona(bad dad joke huh?)

[consul]

P.S - I don't recall the exact supplier I bought the manual CCTs from, but i feel fairly sure the nuts on them were imperial. A 17mm wrench worked (turning it about 5degrees a time on the locknut due to difficult access), but they looked sus and not metric. I'll see if I can confirm who I bought from and if they are metric or not.