TPS/Carb jetting/Cans!!

[Kev L]

And he made it to be 83, top geezer!!!

[tony.mon]

Have a look and a read mate -

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rollie_Free

150mph!

It would have been 151 if he'd only kept his toes pointed backwards.........

[AMCQ46]

apparently he is sited as the originator of the "planking" craze

here is an imitator

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QsPwK6dZ ... ata_player

[Griff1977]

Great progress today. Carbs cleaned-whilst off, sprayed with carb cleaner. Carbs back on. All bits re-attached. Though I did get worried when I discovered a random, medium bore type pipe, coming from left hand lower down to up near back of tank. It was only pipe that was not attached but I didn't detach it the other day. Gives it a wiggle and it ain't attached to anything lower down either!! Oh we'll. pulled it out. Saved weight!

Griff.

That pipe is a breather from the tank's filler neck so that any spent fuel doesn't flow over the hot engine and exhausts.
It connects to one of the two breather spigots under the tank forwards of the petrol tap (if you have an old one) and as you say, exits lower front left.

Did you change plugs while you were there?
Often people do, then report a noticeable difference from the stick coil mod....
But it will start easier, because there's less voltage drop at the plug as the starter takes current turning the motor over. It's interesting to watch a voltmeter across the battery terminals as you crank it over on a cold day. You often see voltage dropping to ten or less, and with the amplifying effect of the coil, that means huge drops in spark voltage, hence more difficult starting in cold weather, the oil's cold and there's a lot more resistance in turning the engine over.

Cheers Tony & Carl.

The old pipe was in deed the overflow/breather- it has never been attached in time I've had the bike- so old pipe just sat in engine bay unattached! - new fuel pipe fitted for completeness!

Tony, plugs are newish since I had my old coil / start/breakdown problems so happy with them- the swept up iridium 9?s from memory.

Ta again. Griff.

[Griff1977]

I can confirm that you don't need to touch the water pump cover when removing the clutch cover, you don't even need to drain the oil, just do the job on the side stand.

If doing the ignition advancer then make sure you hold together the anti backlash gear that sits behind it. You can put a bolt through a locking hole on the plastic gear, but also cable tie the assembly incase it all springs apart.

When putting the new gasket on the clutch, put a fine coat of grease on one side and leave the other side dry and clean. Then when you take the cover off next time the gasket will only be stuck to the dry side and can be reused over and over.

Al. Ta for this. Dumb Q but is the ignition rotor not to the right of the clutch basket? Looking on the pics for clutch change looks like a very similar 3/4 type rotor (on pic with clutch casing removed)(knowledge base thread).

It's just that FP quoted: "ignition rotor goes behind the clutch basket. There is another gear behind the basket that is spring loaded and difficult to get lined up properly" - other than this quote I have no instructions but I'm sure the mechanic will be all over it !? (Though as Carl suggests, I'm trying to have as much of an insight before mechanic looks at it, in case he hasn't done this job before & interest to me).

Ta. Sounds like your little project is coming on grand! Griff.

[tony.mon]

Yes, you can access the rotor by just undoing the bolt that hold s it on. But when you do, the two gears behind it, which are the primary drive driver gear and its quietening gear, which are sprung together, can separate and the springs displace themselves, or shoot across the workshop.
So before undoing the ignition rotor bolt, cable tie the two gears together, in at least two places.
Once this is done, undo the bolt (it'll be tight....) and replace the rotor, then torque the bolt up tight again.
Torque is in the Haynes manual.

[Griff1977]

Cheers Tony. So no need to take clutch basket off? Strange how FP say its "behind" - unless they mean in the fore/aft sense!!??

For clarity:


So cable tie the two gears that sit behind ignition rotor. Got it!! Again, cheers Tony. Griff.

[VTRDark]

fore/aft

front and rear I think it's more like behind and to the side. They probably say behind in the broad sense, also they may say that the Clutch basket needs to be removed to fit. Which it would for better access and if removing the gears or the springs popped out But there's obviously enough room to get fingers in and cable tie the gears so they don't move. In which case the basket wont need to come off.

(:-})

[Griff1977]

Cheers Carl - ooooo you are so picky!!! Might call it bow and stern hey!?

Just for interest, the ignition rotor (and hence the +4 advancer), i would guess /assume would have some form of either mechanical or electrical pick off so it can have the effect on the spark? All I've got are pictures but I don't see any surrounding pick off or sensor. Wondering if you could educate this curious, baffoon!!! ??

Ta. Griff.

[VTRDark]

(:-})

[Griff1977]

I wonder if the rotor spins or does (I think Tony mentioned main drive?) something spin around it that either contacts or is affected by the 'spines' of the rotor?

Oh, I'm away at a mates, babysitting without missus (so no Xfactor ice to distract) and quite bored, hence my interest in such wonderful things!!! (Boredom/time on ones hands!).

Griff.

[VTRDark]

TBH I'm not entirely sure how it precisely works and interacts with other engine components as I have not got in and got my hands dirty with those bits. Maybe Tony could give us some technical know how.

(:-})

[Griff1977]

Cheers mate.

[AMCQ46]

Griff,

The electrical pickup is attached the the clutch side engine cover that was removed to take the photo. It is a hall sensor so it detect the proximity of the steel teeth but doesn't make contact, you don't need to touch it to change the advancer.

Also I have to correct what I said earlier about not touching the water pump to remove the clutch cover....as 3 of the water pump bolts go right through both covers they need to be taken out anyway, and it needs to be removed to spin the impellor to the correct position during reassembly. So it is best to remove the water pump cover before taking the clutch cover off as it will ensure no water drops into your oil.

But You don't need a new gasket as its an o-ring seal.

[tony.mon]

I think you've got it, Griff. The clutch basket doesn't need to come off unless the two interlocked gears have separated.
So tie them together and then you won't have to take off the clutch basket.

OR:
bite the bullet, take off the quietening gear anyway (clutch basket needs to be removed to get it off) and then you won't ever need to worry about it again.
The quietening gear isn't necessary, and removing it won't make the engine noisier.