TPS/Carb jetting/Cans!!

[Griff1977]

Al, Tony and Carl.

(Just lost my first (longer) post due to losing signal-bugger! So here's the shorter one!

Q: what's it like to loosen the nut that holds the ignition rotor on? Do I need it in gear to counter the torque?

I'm thinking of doing this job myself now as we seem to have covered all the points/gotchas. I could even provide a knowledge base thread if it goes ok!?

Anyway, we will see!!

Laters. Griff.

[VTRDark]

(Just lost my first (longer) post due to losing signal-bugger!

ARGH, I hate it when that happens. I've got into the habit now of copying to the clipboard before posting with long posts as a precaution for that.

I'm not 100% sure because like I say I not taken it off before. But it is going to spin by the looks of it as it's on the other end of the crankshaft (opposite to the flywheel) and done up to 75ib ft, so pretty tight. Your going to need a torque wrench or at least a good ratchet or breaker bar. Torque wrench would be best as it can be done back up to the proper torque.

As for locking it off and stopping it from spinning, putting the bike in gear and having someone stand on the rear brake pedal may work as that should stop the clutch spinning, as if your removing the the front sprocket for chain replacement. Looking on page 9-22 in the workshop manual the primary gear/sub gear is tied in with the clutch basket so in theory if the clutch does not turn the primary drive/sub gear should not. Or there is a round hole on the gear so maybe a screwdriver through that and against the clutch basket may lock it off, or even something directly between the two gears. Again 9-22 in the manual shows where the Honda tool (££££££) Gear holder goes between the two gears. It's probably not as difficult as it looks, just be careful of those springs on the primary drive/sub gear and don't remove it. Fit the new advancer and threadlock the bolt before torquing back up.

I would prefer not to use something metal between the two gears as to not damage the spurs on the gears. I would attempt stuffing some clumped up rag between them or a rubber block. An old bit of rubber from a broken cush drive would probably work well as it's tapered. It would work just as well on the top to stop it spinning anti clockwise when undoing or on the bottom to stop it turning clockwise when tightening back up. Saying all that though, if putting it in gear and having someone stand on the brake works, that would be a lot easier.

Anyway that's my conclusion from looking in the manual. Lets see what Tony has to say, I'm sure he has some ingenious solution. Or even Benny.

When are you getting the Jet kit installed mate. That's what really interests me, I'm curious on how drilling the main air jets is going to affect things and what size main jets you will end up with.

(:-})

[tony.mon]

Actually I've tried putting it in gear, and frankly the clutch just slips, or the rear brake does.
It puts the chain under a great deal of stress as well.
But I don't like jamming something between the gear teeth, either, as this can push the balls in the large bearing behind the clutch into the seat, and cause indentations. So I prefer to use a clutch holding tool, and jam it against the footrest casting, with a bit of rag to stop it marking the softish alloy.
You'll need to remove the clutch plates, but that's only taking out the five clutch centre bolts and springs, and gives you a chance to inspect the basket for wear while you're there.

You have to put the clutch holding tool on with the handle UNDER the footrest casting in order to undo the crankshaft centre bolt holding the advance trigger on.

[VTRDark]

So basically something along the lines of what Al done.



(:-})

[tony.mon]

Like this:
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?um=1&hl= ... ,s:0,i:127

[Griff1977]

Thanks Tony & Carl, though I don't think I'll take the engine out!!

I'll follow your suggestion Tony, thanks. I'll let you know how it goes !

Carl, not planning carb work for another 4 weeks or so (£s!)- ill post here with news.

It will be best to do the advancer separate to carbs as ill be able to explore the differences (hopefully ill see differences) that the changes bring.

Laters. Griff.

[VTRDark]

I'm a pratt, I posted the wrong picture. You don't have to take the engine out

Defo best to do the advancer before any carb work as the advancer will affect how the carb shooud be set up.

(:-})

[AMCQ46]

I wondered why you posted the picture of 2 engines on stools? You having a good night there Carl

[VTRDark]

No I have not been drinking I was in a rush as I wanted to watch Brian Cox with the Space exploration programme. That will teach me to not check the post.

(:-})

[Griff1977]

Phew, I don't need engine out!!!

[lloydie]

ive got a ignition +4 advancer on its way to me
watch me fook up when fitting it
cable ties and a locking bolt .
be interesting to feel how it changes the ride thats if i dont wombles it up

[VTRDark]

ve got a ignition +4 advancer on its way to me

I saw that. That was either a lcky find or a good memory

cable ties and a locking bolt .

If you look at the primary gear in the workshop manual it's in two parts. The main gear with a smaller bit overlayed on top. The springs are in between the two. So if this is cable tied together there's no chance of the smaller bit falling off and the springs popping out.

It will be a simple job for you and you need to do your clutch anyway so kill two birds with one stone while the clutch cover is off

(:-})

[lloydie]

That's the plan even if I get the marmite engine .
Take the clutch out of it and fit it and the advancer to mine , run it for this year and next winter swap engines and upgrades over job done :/)

[Griff1977]

Actually I've tried putting it in gear, and frankly the clutch just slips, or the rear brake does.
It puts the chain under a great deal of stress as well.
But I don't like jamming something between the gear teeth, either, as this can push the balls in the large bearing behind the clutch into the seat, and cause indentations. So I prefer to use a clutch holding tool, and jam it against the footrest casting, with a bit of rag to stop it marking the softish alloy.
You'll need to remove the clutch plates, but that's only taking out the five clutch centre bolts and springs, and gives you a chance to inspect the basket for wear while you're there.

You have to put the clutch holding tool on with the handle UNDER the footrest casting in order to undo the crankshaft centre bolt holding the advance trigger on.

Tony, bought a EBC clutch removal tool so ready to go! Might do at weekend if time permits but might be in a few weeks. Cheers. Griff.

[rollingthunderx2]

When I did my TPS I cut slots in the security bolts with a junior hacksaw, just enough room for that, then inserted a good fitting , reground screwdriver, gave it a tap on the head first to shock the thread loose and unscrewed the bolts, bent the bottom tang down, replaced the TPS all the way round the adjustment.
I had made up some flying leads with 4mm spade connectors,and sleeves, which I had attached to the TPS.
Checked with meter, 498! Tightened screws, rechecked, OK.
If you can't reach a screw to fully tighten, use pliers.
If I want to recheck the TPS after balancing the carbs,or resetting the tickover, the flying leads can be re-attached using long nosed pliers and a torch.