I found these on FleaBay:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Honda-VTR1000-Fir ... 240%3A1318
So I wondered, if I buy them, fine, but would I advance both inlet and exhaust, or what? And if so, by how many degrees?
I think that most Hondas are set up fairly conservatively to run on quite low-grade petrol, and seems to me that you could usefully gain a bit of power running on standard UK pump stuff.
Maybe more on 98 RON.
Maybe even more with an anti-knock additive.
Anyone any ideas?
Come on, let's play!
Adjustable Cam Sprockets- Anyone tried 'em?
Adjustable Cam Sprockets- Anyone tried 'em?
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
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Pete.L
- Forum Health And Safety Officer
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I looked at them ages ago and seriously thought about having a play.
Another area where they would be really useful is to return the cam timing back to normal.
All you folks out there who have replaced your tensioners and then noticed the cam lobes didn't quite line up with the top of the block and the fly wheel at the same, that's because the chain has stretched. This could cure that problem and give you a few extra hp to play with.
I never went off and bought some but the theory is sound.
Give it a go Tony, let us know how it goes
Pete.l
Another area where they would be really useful is to return the cam timing back to normal.
All you folks out there who have replaced your tensioners and then noticed the cam lobes didn't quite line up with the top of the block and the fly wheel at the same, that's because the chain has stretched. This could cure that problem and give you a few extra hp to play with.
I never went off and bought some but the theory is sound.
Give it a go Tony, let us know how it goes
Pete.l
My new ride is a bit of a Howler and I love to make her Squeal
The Ron of the petrol is more to do with the ignition advance and compression ratio and not the valve timing the higher the Ron the more ignition advance and the higher the compression you can use without predestination (pinking)
Larger lifts and longer overlaps on the cam allows more fuel to be sucked in to the cylinders but usually with a loss of lower end performance
If it were as easy as retiming your cams for extra power it would be well documented on here by now
You could probably change the duration and timing of the cams with these but your getting in to a dangerous area were you could end up putting the valves in to the pistons. So you would need to take the heads off and check the valve to piston clearance
The idea behind adjustable cam wheels is to get the best out of the cam by making sure that the crank and camshafts are timed exactly together
Remember there’s no set timing makes on adjustable wheels so I wouldn’t mess with these unless you know what your doing
First thin is your going to need some specialized kit
A DTI (dial test indicator) with stand for finding the max lift on the cams
A good large protractor for setting the crank’s DTC
And a plug stop that screws in to the spark plug hole and stops the piston just before DTC clockwise and anticlockwise to set your protractor to zero at DTC
Larger lifts and longer overlaps on the cam allows more fuel to be sucked in to the cylinders but usually with a loss of lower end performance
If it were as easy as retiming your cams for extra power it would be well documented on here by now
You could probably change the duration and timing of the cams with these but your getting in to a dangerous area were you could end up putting the valves in to the pistons. So you would need to take the heads off and check the valve to piston clearance
The idea behind adjustable cam wheels is to get the best out of the cam by making sure that the crank and camshafts are timed exactly together
Remember there’s no set timing makes on adjustable wheels so I wouldn’t mess with these unless you know what your doing
First thin is your going to need some specialized kit
A DTI (dial test indicator) with stand for finding the max lift on the cams
A good large protractor for setting the crank’s DTC
And a plug stop that screws in to the spark plug hole and stops the piston just before DTC clockwise and anticlockwise to set your protractor to zero at DTC
its big----- its red ------its throbbing and it’s a thousand CC
