Also there is very little popping on overrun.Everyone should try this once, i'd be interested to hear other people's balancing stories.
(standing on one leg does'nt count)
Jonesey.
A Well Balanced Individual
A Well Balanced Individual
Hi all, i just spent around 45 mins balancing my carbs using a carbtune balancer. WOW what a difference, it now pulls cleanly from 1200rpm right to the redline!! The engine also has a different tone now, it's low boom has returned. Also there is very little popping on overrun.
Everyone should try this once, i'd be interested to hear other people's balancing stories.
(standing on one leg does'nt count)
Jonesey.
Also there is very little popping on overrun.Everyone should try this once, i'd be interested to hear other people's balancing stories.
(standing on one leg does'nt count)
Jonesey.
-
LotusSevenMan
- Posts: 1915
- Joined: Wed Sep 06, 2006 8:32 pm
- Location: Liss, Hampshire. UK
Yeah, lovely when they are correct isn't it?
I found that if set exactly right at tickover then they went out a little bit above that range so I set mine at 1,900rpm. The bike then pulls cleanly all the way through to the redline which is what I wanted as most of the time is spent riding above 1,900 and below 10,500rpm!!!
I found that if set exactly right at tickover then they went out a little bit above that range so I set mine at 1,900rpm. The bike then pulls cleanly all the way through to the redline which is what I wanted as most of the time is spent riding above 1,900 and below 10,500rpm!!!
"Only ride as fast as your guardian angel can fly" !!!
I use a Carbtune Pro.
Drop this
http://www.carbtune.com/inst.html
in your browser to see their instructions- it's pretty straightforward except for getting to the front cylinder take-off point, which is a little cap-head screw halfway down the back of the front cylinder, under the carbs.
You can see it, but you can't get to it, unless you have tiny
double-jointed hands like a Honda assembler.
SO the easiest way to get to this is :
Start engine, and clamp the vacuum pipe running from the tank to the engine, using a mole grip. You'll need to keep this pipe connected to the tank at all times, or fuel won't flow later.
Drop fairing off.
Undo tank bolts
Using special u shaped hex key driver thingy in the tool kit, lift the rear of the tank.
Lift the front end of the tank, and reach back underneath to turn off fuel tap.
Pull off pipes, noting where they go. If you've not done this before, make notes!
Lift tank off.
Undo screws holding airbox top on. Remove it.
Lift filter out, then undo the two screws holding the trumpets on, for both inlets.
Underneath you'll see four screws. Undo these, but first put a clean bit of kitchen paper in the inlets, so you don't lose a screw down them.
Lift airbox lower off.
Now, find and undo the carb rubber clamp screws, and loosen them.
Pull the carbs off, leaving all the hoses connected.
Tie them to the rh clipon, so they're out of your way a bit.
Then see the plastic heat shield underneath, work out how the clips holding it to the frame work (pull out the centre pin with a little penknife) and remove it.
Right, now you're getting somewhere.
At this point you can not only see the front cylinder take-off point, but actually get to it.
Undo it and replace with the hollow attachment you get with your Carbtune. If you don't want to go through all this again every time, use the brass one from their website. You can order just two, although the website doesn't list this. option. Just e-mail them and they'll sort you out.
Right, now you can connect the hoses, and lead them to the carbtune, which you need to keep vertical by tying it to the left handlebar.
You can re-assemble the heatshield, and refit the carbs. Don't forget to seat them and tighten them properly or they'll pop off again at the first blowback through the rear one.
Refit the airbox, not forgeting to remove the kitchen roll at the last minute. If you're going to fit two long trumpets (search for airbox mods) this is the time to do it. Or two short ones.
Turn the tank the wrong way round, and rest it on some rags in the rear subframe.
Remember I said to leave the clamped-off vacuum pipe attached to the tank?
Assuming you did, you can then connect all the other pipes to the tank outlets, but swap sides for the two fat ones taking fuel to the carbs. (caus eyou have the tank the wrong way round!)
Now you can start the bike, and by adjusting the adjuster on the lh side of the carbs you can (using lots of neighbour-annoying blipping) make sure that the columns are equal.
Once they are, you're done.
Just disconnect the device, block the pipe ends with the cap head screw you took out of the front cylinder and coil the pipe up (you can use a bit of silicon sealer so ensure a good seal).
Put the tank back the right way, refit the bolts, reassemble the fairing, reconnecting the lights etc, and ride the bloody thing!
Easy, huh?
But seriously, don't try to get to the front take-off point unless you remove the heatshield first. It looks possible, but is a ba5tard nightmare.
You'll be nearly there for hours.
It's quicker my way, honest!
Drop this
http://www.carbtune.com/inst.html
in your browser to see their instructions- it's pretty straightforward except for getting to the front cylinder take-off point, which is a little cap-head screw halfway down the back of the front cylinder, under the carbs.
You can see it, but you can't get to it, unless you have tiny
double-jointed hands like a Honda assembler.
SO the easiest way to get to this is :
Start engine, and clamp the vacuum pipe running from the tank to the engine, using a mole grip. You'll need to keep this pipe connected to the tank at all times, or fuel won't flow later.
Drop fairing off.
Undo tank bolts
Using special u shaped hex key driver thingy in the tool kit, lift the rear of the tank.
Lift the front end of the tank, and reach back underneath to turn off fuel tap.
Pull off pipes, noting where they go. If you've not done this before, make notes!
Lift tank off.
Undo screws holding airbox top on. Remove it.
Lift filter out, then undo the two screws holding the trumpets on, for both inlets.
Underneath you'll see four screws. Undo these, but first put a clean bit of kitchen paper in the inlets, so you don't lose a screw down them.
Lift airbox lower off.
Now, find and undo the carb rubber clamp screws, and loosen them.
Pull the carbs off, leaving all the hoses connected.
Tie them to the rh clipon, so they're out of your way a bit.
Then see the plastic heat shield underneath, work out how the clips holding it to the frame work (pull out the centre pin with a little penknife) and remove it.
Right, now you're getting somewhere.
At this point you can not only see the front cylinder take-off point, but actually get to it.
Undo it and replace with the hollow attachment you get with your Carbtune. If you don't want to go through all this again every time, use the brass one from their website. You can order just two, although the website doesn't list this. option. Just e-mail them and they'll sort you out.
Right, now you can connect the hoses, and lead them to the carbtune, which you need to keep vertical by tying it to the left handlebar.
You can re-assemble the heatshield, and refit the carbs. Don't forget to seat them and tighten them properly or they'll pop off again at the first blowback through the rear one.
Refit the airbox, not forgeting to remove the kitchen roll at the last minute. If you're going to fit two long trumpets (search for airbox mods) this is the time to do it. Or two short ones.
Turn the tank the wrong way round, and rest it on some rags in the rear subframe.
Remember I said to leave the clamped-off vacuum pipe attached to the tank?
Assuming you did, you can then connect all the other pipes to the tank outlets, but swap sides for the two fat ones taking fuel to the carbs. (caus eyou have the tank the wrong way round!)
Now you can start the bike, and by adjusting the adjuster on the lh side of the carbs you can (using lots of neighbour-annoying blipping) make sure that the columns are equal.
Once they are, you're done.
Just disconnect the device, block the pipe ends with the cap head screw you took out of the front cylinder and coil the pipe up (you can use a bit of silicon sealer so ensure a good seal).
Put the tank back the right way, refit the bolts, reassemble the fairing, reconnecting the lights etc, and ride the bloody thing!
Easy, huh?
But seriously, don't try to get to the front take-off point unless you remove the heatshield first. It looks possible, but is a ba5tard nightmare.
You'll be nearly there for hours.
It's quicker my way, honest!
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
-
LotusSevenMan
- Posts: 1915
- Joined: Wed Sep 06, 2006 8:32 pm
- Location: Liss, Hampshire. UK
For the front take off point, try this.
once you have managed to give the blanking plug 1/2 a turn with an allen key, cut 1 inch of tubing off your vacuum pipe and insert one end of it into a bic pen. This can then be used as a flexible extension to turn the blanking plug. Easy peasy!!!
Chris.
once you have managed to give the blanking plug 1/2 a turn with an allen key, cut 1 inch of tubing off your vacuum pipe and insert one end of it into a bic pen. This can then be used as a flexible extension to turn the blanking plug. Easy peasy!!!
Chris.
Unus Dies Gingiber Mos Hereditas Orbis terrarum.
You can also get to the front take off point using an extenison & universal joint from a socket set with hex bits.
I have one of these:
http://www.pentagondirect.com/p/33-piec ... socket-set
..& I can get to it no troubles
I have one of these:
http://www.pentagondirect.com/p/33-piec ... socket-set
..& I can get to it no troubles
Thought there'd be an easier way, but to be honest pulling the heatshield off is so easy and quick I went the direct route.
But whatever works for you.
Once you've fitted the brass fitting and pipes you'll never need to do more than pop the tank off so it's a one-time job.
But whatever works for you.
Once you've fitted the brass fitting and pipes you'll never need to do more than pop the tank off so it's a one-time job.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.