Cain and sprockets

[robvtr]

Hi all

Need to replace the chain and sprockets on the vtr

What are the standard sprocket sizes and what do you recommend for value for money

Cheers
Rob

[tony.mon]

hope you're abel to do it yourself

[robvtr]

hope you're abel to do it yourself

Thats the plan

Rob

[tony.mon]

hope you're abel to do it yourself

Thats the plan

Rob

[B120CR]

Hi rob
Std is 16 front 41 rear. Value for money depends on riding style, bad habits and how good you are at looking after your chain etc
Std Honda is £99 +vat @ Dave Silver, if in doubt stick to genuine, that'l be why Honda fit them.
As for me, (see 'sprockets / gearing' thread) I am going to try a D.I.D. chain with lower gearing i.e. less acceleration & more top-end, purely in the hope to gain mpg on my daily commute.
Good luck and it's worth investing in a decent chain breaker / riveter if you intent on doing this yourself eachtime when necessary

[bikerpiker]

I bought my last chain and sprocket kit here
http://www.busters-accessories.co.uk/pr ... INA-CZ-Kit

I've often wondered where i'd be able to buy an endless chain (is that what you call them ?), as you do not need to split/rivit the chain, ...it comes off in one piece by removing the footrest assembly and sprocket cover.

[mwad]

hope you're abel to do it yourself

Thats the plan

Rob

lol

[mikevtr]

Hi all,

First of all, just want to apologise if i wont write the words correctly...but i'm learning .

I've just bought a chain kit(front and rear sprocket, and an Iris chain-530) and i want to change it my self....short on money ....it's depression ....
The chain it's from one piece, like someone said before, and i want to mount the chain without split it. What do i have to do? Do i have to dismantle the rear arm?

Please help...maybe some picture's will help. ..i want to learn my self to make the periodical service.

Another question: the brake fluid and the clutch fluid it's dirty and i want to change it.....how?

Thank you very much for your time and help...maybe for some of you this questions are silly...please excuse me...i just want to be sure what i'm doing.

Best regards,
Mike

[stormingjoe]

left mine on a little too long,

this was the soft link, lack of internal lube me thinks when fitted.
Shortened new one to 100 links and put 40 tooth renthal on rear, speedo more accurate, smoother drive and turns a touch faster (shorter wheel base)due to new chain. mpg no better.

[sirch345]

Hi Mike,

No, as already has been said you don't need to remove the swing arm to fit a new chain.

To undo the sprocket nuts I found if you place a piece of wood (such as 2" X 2") through the rear wheel resting on the arms of the swinging arm, then let one of the wheel spokes rest up against it, that will make the job easier. You'll need to pull the wood out to turn the wheel around a little at a time to be able to get to each rear sprocket nut. You'll also need the wood on the top of the swing arm for undoing the sprocket nuts and underneath the swing arm for tightening them up.

As Tim say's replacing the brake and clutch fluid is fairly straight forward, providing you can undo the bleed nipples. If you start pumping the old fluid through just top up the reservoir with new fluid before it completely empties. Make sure it doesn't completely empty as air will get into the system. You can usually tell when the new fluid starts coming through as it will be clearer than the old stuff.

I use a jamjar or old glass milk bottle, it needs to be lower than the bleed nipples. Attach a length of hose to the bleed nipple and run it down into the bottle or jamjar. Slacken off the bleed nipple half a turn and pull the lever into the handlebar, tighten lightly the bleed nipple and release the lever, then repeat process until the new fluid is coming out of the bleed nipple.

NOTE BRAKE FLUID WILL DAMAGE THE PAINT WORK IF IT GETS ON IT
so cover up anything that could get splattered with old rags before you start.

Chris.

Shortened new one to 100 links and put 40 tooth renthal on rear, speedo more accurate, smoother drive and turns a touch faster (shorter wheel base)due to new chain. mpg no better.

I've not known many to higher the gearing on the Storm (assuming you have with a standard 16 tooth on the front). The mpg's will still read the same unless you fit a speedo healer to accommodate the higher gearing

Chris.

[mikevtr]

Hi all,

Thank you for all the help - for the advice. I will star the service, after i found a paddock stand, because i don't have one.

Have a nice weekend!....

Mike.

[tony.mon]

Shortened new one to 100 links and put 40 tooth renthal on rear, speedo more accurate, smoother drive and turns a touch faster (shorter wheel base)due to new chain. mpg no better.

I've not known many to higher the gearing on the Storm (assuming you have with a standard 16 tooth on the front). The mpg's will still read the same unless you fit a speedo healer to accommodate the higher gearing

Chris.

I'm considering doing this myself.

Every year I throw the poor old dog up the dragstrip at the Bulldog Bash, just to see what difference (if any) this year's fiddling and fettling have made.

Last time I found that with shortened gearing (15T front, standard rear) I was getting the first soft bit of the rev limiter chiming in about 20 yards from the 1/4 mile timing gantry.
So I wondered whether adding one tooth at the rear would leave a clean three gear run.
Sure, it would pull harder using lower gearing and using more gears, but you'd lose time on each change.

Also, as the bike's so tractable, you don't have to keep it in a tiny power band, like some 600's or 40's, so less of a problem.

Lastly, I can't get the bugger to launch cleanly using clutch slip, so tend to fully engage drive early on (3500 rpm) and use the engine torque to power the bike up.

Maybe I will and maybe I won't, but I'd be interested to know what you lot think, anyway.

[stormingjoe]

quickshifter

[coledog]

can you tell me what sort of times you are pulling on VTR, I used to get a 10.02 out of my old 89 model ZX10 and an 11.03 out of an 80 model 900 Bold'or ?

[tony.mon]

11.6's on straight-throughs and a K+N. (with lousy .4 reaction times!)

Standard jets; I only found out a few weeks ago that the Dynojet kit the seller said had been done was not fitted.

That'd be why it was running lean all the way through the range on the Dyno, then!

I find the clutch difficult; its bites all by itself when I apply more throttle at launch.
Revised springs going in for this year, a Factory Pro or Dynojet kit and an ignition advancer, too.

Hoping to bust into the 10's, but we'll see.......