It's quite nice working on the bike, cleaning bits as I go. Now the exhaust joints are all sealed up nicely I can hear a slight rattle from the front camchain (more noticeable when the engine's warm). I've put the rods in the tensioners so if the spring does go it won't cause any damage. Do the guides wear on these? I'm wondering whether fitting manual tensioners would cure the rattle as when I fitted the rods in them it seemed to be working normally. I want to check the front valve clearances when I service the front end hopefully access will be easier with the forks off. I'll be able to have a closer look at the guides then.
Forks off will help with access, but for myself I prefer to whip off the tank, airbox and the plastic shield above the front cylinder head. It takes a few minutes, but then everything's revealed, and easy to get to.
Lots of threads on here about fork oil, what weight, level etc.
Here's one NOT to try:
7.5 weight oil, 135 air gap.
Bottoms out.
I was hoping to be able to up the preload enough to get good damping but it hasn't worked out.
I'll be changing for heavier oil (maybe 12.5?) when I get time.
BTW, Roger at Revolution recommends 135 airgap.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
goody wrote:It's quite nice working on the bike, cleaning bits as I go. Now the exhaust joints are all sealed up nicely I can hear a slight rattle from the front camchain (more noticeable when the engine's warm). I've put the rods in the tensioners so if the spring does go it won't cause any damage. Do the guides wear on these? I'm wondering whether fitting manual tensioners would cure the rattle as when I fitted the rods in them it seemed to be working normally. I want to check the front valve clearances when I service the front end hopefully access will be easier with the forks off. I'll be able to have a closer look at the guides then.
I found putting rods (or stops as some call them) in the CCT's certainly do give piece of mind. I've not heard of any Storms suffering with valve guide wear, so I would say it's not a common thing. Definitely worth checking the front valve clearances. I, like Tony, found (thanks to Stratman) that removing the petrol tank, carbs plus shield (no need to remove the coolant pipe to the carbs, if you're patient with a little effort you can maneuver the them about, out of the way enough to remove the plastic sheild. Take note of how the different bits of sheild fit before removing them, take photo's if necessary) was the best way to get to the front cylinder.