Tips/advice please

[japseye]

I will try and make this as brief as I can. I took my vtr1000 to Bulgaria last year in the van where it now resides and I only got the opportunity to visit once this year for a month. Several problems with it from day one before I took it over there. Firstly it is a damn nuisance for starting although after reading a few threads on here that is a common problem with this model. The guy I bought it off claims that it is due to having the renegade racing cans on it. If shes run daily then shes not too bad at all for starting but left stood for a couple of days or cold and damp about then no good. New plugs installed. Sometimes it kind of kicks back (bit like the big twin kick start models) used to do sometimes. When this happens it sounds like someone has hit the frame with an hammer and you can feel it through the handlebars and seat. I think its coming from the upper cylinder area but not sure. Dont know how else to describe it really, bit like a big clunk kind of sound. This can also be felt occasionally when engine is running on lower revs. When this happens from trying to start her quite often the starter motor dies and all I get is a clicking noise from under the seat area. The only thing that cures this is having a couple of people to give me a shove and try bumping her in 3rd AND keep the starter button in at the same time. Simply rocking in gear on rear frame stand does not free it. Im quite at home with computers but pretty dislexic with the old nut n bolts but I do have a bit of a clue but not much. I bought a secondhand selenoid and starter motor off ebay and took them over with me this year. I changed the selenoid but not the starter motor. This did not cure. Theres no bike shops over there where I am and its just getting me down. If I was in UK I would just take to the nearest bike shop and have done with but its not that simple. I had a puncture and it was a nightmare trying to find someone qualified to fix it. Im afraid to go out on her over there in case I have problems starting her up again. Theres no RAC or whatever that I can call for assistance and the language barrier is terrible. It would be impossible for me to try and bump it on my own. Shes also just developed a new hiccup. Sometimes when I put her in gear then the engine just dies. When this happens if I try starting her in gear with the clutch in then its just dead, contact in nuetral only. Its as if there is some kind of immobiliser kicking in or something like that. Anyway thats about all the input I can give for now.
Look forward to your replies lads.

[tattie]

Hi,
Mine was suffering starting problems earlier this year, after putting on a new battery (due to the old one not holding a charge) the problem persisted the next thing i did was to replace the connection bolt on the starter as it and the cable where it connected to the starter were rotten. Once replaced it started no problem.
With the backfiring thing, I would as Timbo says get the carbs balanced as this will make a difference.
Side stand switch, give the connections a good clean .

Cheers

A.M.

[bikerpiker]

As tattie says, give the side-stand connector a good clean, failing that, you could with a little care ,take it apart ,clean it,and extend the springs a wee bit,..................have a look here...........

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... nd#p108147

Or ,check ebay for one, i repaired my old one,but also bought one for £5 .

[japseye]

Thanks for replies.
Firstly I do not think that it is a battery problem as the one Im using is a decent newish one and the problem persists even after a full charge. I also dont believe that there is any sign of blowing from the exhaust system. As for carbs I dont have a clue. I cant understand why when it gives a jolt like mechanical loud clunk which you can feel through the frame then the starter motor refuses to turn until bumped off with button pressed in. Its probably nothing serious but it gives me cause for concern as if its something mechanical. When it happens Im convinced that something inside the engine has gone like a con rod has snapped or something like that although I know that this is not the case. The cold starting problem I can live with but not the starter motor keep seizing. I will try fitting the spare one that I took over with me on my next trip. What parts do I need for replacing. Is there an O ring seal or something like that required when replacing.
Regarding the side stand switch well I will be honest, I did not know that it had one and its quite possible now that Its been pointed out to me that I may have tried on a few occasions starting her up with the stand down so cheers for that tip.
Theres also not much that I can do or try from here whilst back in the UK. As I said also there are no bike shops over there although I did find one guy who seems to know what hes doing, hes the one who got my rear tyre sorted out for me and he also speaks a little english. Thing is everybody seems out to rip you off over there. For example the same guy told me that I need a new chain and sprockets but these were replaced before I took the bike over there and have done less than 500 miles. Because the bike has been stood there were traces of rust on it thats all. Also front and rear disks which he told me are going to be costly. Oil change and filter and fork seals. Oil change goes without saying can get too much of that and I am aware of the fork seals but new disks front and rear as well as chain and sprockets well my name is Billy Hunt not Silly C***
Thanks for listening.

[sirch345]

As Timbo says this bike needs it's battery to be in tip top condition and if you're leaving the bike for long periods without it being used a proper motorcycle battery charger/moniter is a must.

I disagree about this bike being difficult to start. Once you've got the knack as with any other vehicle it's not usually a problem.

One thing that I think may be causing you problems is how long are you leaving petrol in the bike it could be going off.

Also so as Tattie mentions, check out the connection of the heavy duty lead on the starter motor, they are know to corrode if not looked after.

I agree side stand switch worth checking out.

Balancing the carbs (again as mentioned) should help to cut down on the spit- back through the carbs as will raising the tick over to 1,200rpm.

Chris.

[goody]

Mine starts with the side stand down I think it will start in gear with it down as well, on mine the switch just seems to operate the warning light.

[sirch345]

Mine starts with the side stand down I think it will start in gear with it down as well, on mine the switch just seems to operate the warning light.

As far as I'm aware it shouldn't start with the side stand down and in gear. That is the whole point, so you can't ride off with it down.

If your bike does that I expect it was playing up at some point and a previous owner by-passed the switch, although not to sure the stand switch light would still work

Chris.

[Stratman]

As far as I'm aware it shouldn't start with the side stand down. That is the whole point, so you can't ride off with it down.

Don't you mean "and in gear" Chris?

[sirch345]

As far as I'm aware it shouldn't start with the side stand down. That is the whole point, so you can't ride off with it down.

Don't you mean "and in gear" Chris?

Yes Paul you are spot-on

I will now edit my post to avoid any confusion.

Cheers,

Chris.

PS. Paul can you please give your advice here:-
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=14422

[japseye]

I will take over a new battery and proper charger on my next trip. Although Im not convinced that the battery is at fault it will not harm anything by trouble shooting one thing at a time.
The chap who I got it off told me that he never used choke, he just gave 2 full twists on the throttle before attempting to start. This does not work for me. The clunk knock kind of noise is also felt sometimes at low revs which I presume has nothing to do with the battery. However after regular running for several days this seems to dissappear. I will attempt to change the starter motor on my next visit and inspect the heavy duty lead. Do I need to take any parts with me or special tools. I cant get parts over there or maybe I should say I dont know where to get parts from over there. One bloke told me that the nearest Honda speciaist centre is is about 200 miles away from where I am. I dare not risk riding her that far. I will check the tick over for rpm but Im at a loss for ballancing the carbs myself.
If there are any gurus out there whos willing to take a look who fancies a free holiday to Bulgaria next year then let me know. Theres plenty room for two.

Dont hesitate to ask.
Thanks

[Phil-VTwin]

These small bike batteries will loose about 1% of their capacity each day when not in use so its imperative they are kept at full charge with a specialised charger like an Optimate that will help stop it sulfating.

When mine is low on charge it also clunks and knocks when cold, it feels like a misfire but on a fully charged battery it is fine, you maybe at the borderline point where the battery cant supply enough current to meet the demand of the ignition/electrical system until it gets some charge back into it after turning over the engine.

Oh the standard carbs dont have accelator pumps so twisting the throttle would have no effect at all unless you have something tasty like the FCR carbs on it

[japseye]

Thanks Phil. I will make the battery a number one priority then.
Any tips on where to get an Optimate charger and what to look out for when buying a quility battery.
Cheers.

EDIT
Just looked on Ebay and not sure what I need. Theres an Optimate 3, Optimate 4 and + and M79-OPT4

[Phil-VTwin]

Unfortunately i cant recommend one as i threw together a constant 500ma charger using an old 12v power supply and a LM317T IC.

[sirch345]

Thanks Phil. I will make the battery a number one priority then.
Any tips on where to get an Optimate charger and what to look out for when buying a quility battery.
Cheers.

EDIT
Just looked on Ebay and not sure what I need. Theres an Optimate 3, Optimate 4 and + and M79-OPT4

Any MOTORCYCLE battery charger and monitor such as an Optimate will do the job fine. They all basically do the job, but the higher number chargers/monitors from Optimate that you mention, means they have more advanced features. So the choice is down to you.

Do check though that they are compatible with the mains power supply in Bulgaria.

Busters and MandP also sell motorcycle chargers/monitors, may be worth checking out.

Chris.

[japseye]

Checked on Busters and there is a large selection there. What model number am I looking for Sirch please.
As far as I know a CTX12BS model will do but cant see one of those on there.