Resetting the TPS and ixing the choke cable

[garyhoons]

Hi Guys,

Was putting in my mods on the weekend to my CCTs and thought i'd measure the TPS sensor while i had access to see how close it was to 500 ohms...it was 800. So i thought I'd adjust it next weekend, was just wondering if there is a post or writeup somewhere on how to do that ? Also I read somewhere that the screws are difficult to get out, but i noticed mine has screws with security heads on them, which i have a bit to suit, otherwise they seemed like normal screws ? Is it possible someone has changed these screws before ?

Also, my choke cable is a pain in the butt. If you pull it out when the bike isn't running, you can hear springs creaking and the choke slowly slides itself back in. When the bike is running the vibration is enough to pull the choke back in in about 2-3 seconds and of course the bike dies so I have to stand there and hold the choke open till she warms up. Anyone know what i should or shouldn't touch to sort this out ?


Thanks Alot.

[Wicky]

The US Superhawk forum just love fiddling with their tps's

http://superhawkforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9876

Choke solution



http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... ke#p115031

[bikerpiker]

What's this forum coming to !!!!!........folk posting pics of themselves choking their chickens

[cupasoop]

Also, my choke cable is a pain in the butt. If you pull it out when the bike isn't running, you can hear springs creaking and the choke slowly slides itself back in. When the bike is running the vibration is enough to pull the choke back in in about 2-3 seconds and of course the bike dies so I have to stand there and hold the choke open till she warms up. Anyone know what i should or shouldn't touch to sort this out ?


Thanks Alot.

Pull out the choke, pull off the rubber cap underneath, tighten the plastic nut below that and bobs your mothers brother

[sirch345]

Wicky and Rich (Cupasoop) have covered the choke problem, the screws you have on the TPS sound like the standard ones for the Firestorm here in the UK.

If you are going to adjust it, I would suggest marking the present position with something like tipex before moving it, as you may find you prefer it as it is now.

Chris.

[garyhoons]

Pull out the choke, pull off the rubber cap underneath, tighten the plastic nut below that and bobs your mothers brother

[/quote]

Hey thanks for that, i assume you mean to pull the chock out from both carbies and do this ? (Haven't looked at that end yet)

[bikerpiker]

Right next to the choke knob ,there will be a small rubber cover if i remember right ,tighten the nut under this cover

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... ke#p115031

[garyhoons]

Thanks for all the advice, i'll check it out.

[tony.mon]

here's a post I did a while back saying what I did to mine:
Ok, here's what I did.
(I'm sure there's a thread on here somewhere about it already)

Remove tank, airbox, undo carb clamps and lift them off the inlet rubbers. Disconnect throttle cables from carbs, and then one of the coolant pipes which goes to the rear carb. It's only a spring clip, and very little coolant comes out, so no need to clamp it.

You can now lift the carbs far enough to get to all the parts you'll need.

Locate the TPS on the RH side of the carbs, and note that it's held on by two anti-tamper screws.
Disconnect the electrical connection, and you'll see that the TPS socket has three pins.

Connect an Ohm meter set to <2000 ohms range to it- I found that I needed three hands, so to make it easier slip a couple of small spade terminals on each of the top two terminals- you can poke a probe up these, and it'll stay in securely enough to take readings.

Check the reading- it should be 500 Ohms plus or minus ten- quite a tight tolerance.
Mine was reading 900 odd.

If it needs adjusting:

Using a junior hacksaw, carefully cut a screwdriver slot across each screw head, and undo the screws.
Inside you'll see that the TPS has a plastic tang, which rotates against it's spring, and the carb side has two metal tangs which trap it and cause it to rotate when the throttle is opened and closed.

The TPS has slotted holes for adjustment.

If you're lucky, the TPS can be adjusted so that it's within the correct range using the range of adjustment available in the slotted holes.

I found that when the TPS was in the right place, I couldn't get a screw in, as the hole was beyond the elongated slot.

So, if that's the case, you'll need to CAREFULLY bend both of the metal tangs on the carb side so that the correct setting can be achieved.
Try to work out which way they need to be bent before bending them, if you bend them too much or too many times they'll surely snap.
(I got mine the wrong way first time, though )

Use two new screws- I used cap heads, as the original ones you've cut slots into will rust as you've cut through the plating.

Ride the bike, and check out the difference!

_________________

[mik_str]

If you are going to adjust it, I would suggest marking the present position with something like tipex before moving it, as you may find you prefer it as it is now.

Chris.

true dat. I adjusted my TPS down to 500 ohms and did not care for the result (softened the power noticeably in the low-end with no noticeable gain of any kind) so I ended up going back to the OEM setting (which was also right around 800 ohms).