Valve clearances

[steveb]

Does anyone know if there is an idiots guide, similar to Sirch's CCT guide on here for valve clearances?

I read somewhere it's worth checking them whilst doing CCT's? Can anyone expand?

Cheers.................an idiot!

[tony.mon]

I followed the Haynes section for this- seemed fairly straightforward, and gave clear calculations for working out the sizes needed after you've measured the existing gaps.

But use a metric set of feeler gauges- I did my head in trying to convert when I could only find an old English set when the shops were shut!

If you haven't got a Haynes I can scan the relevant pages and E-mail if you want.

Re doing them while you're there- yes, it's a good time to do them, IMHO, as you'll already have the tank off to get to the front CCT. Although you can get to the rear head quite easily once the tank's off, I find it easier to lift the carbs off and then lift off the plastic shield between the carbs and the front head to do the front ones.

It's a bit more work, but you can get to the head much easier that way, otherwise you need double-jointed wrists and are working up under the yoke in the dark- and you'll get bits of dirt from the yoke area drop into the engine, too. And because you're working from above it's easier on your back, as well.

Mind you, once you've gone that far you might as well rebalance the carbs as you put them back.....it's turning into a whole weekend, isn't it

Last tip; find a local dealer who has a good selection of shims before you start, and make sure you can get to the dealer before they close! ( and good ones will exchange the shims you have for the ones you need, although they're only a few pounds each, and probably you won't need a complete set, as some will still be within tolerance.

[sirch345]

I can't really add very much to Tony's post, except removing the carbs to access the front cylinder as Tony says is definitely the best way to get to them.

One thing I will add is using a cranked pair of feeler gauges rather than a straight set are IMO a must, it makes measuring the clearances much easier.

Chris.

[steveb]

Thanks - still debating doing this yet as I only have 10k miles on the bike currently.

But I've just read the other post re Dave Silver spares selling off old stock pink dot tensioners, with new ones being orange dot. I've bought pink dot from DS - so thinking gonna need to change the tensioners again in another couple of three years anyway??

[sirch345]

Thanks - still debating doing this yet as I only have 10k miles on the bike currently.

But I've just read the other post re Dave Silver spares selling off old stock pink dot tensioners, with new ones being orange dot. I've bought pink dot from DS - so thinking gonna need to change the tensioners again in another couple of three years anyway??

I don't think that is entirely true, as I bought from David Silver in June of this year and the CCT I got did have an Orange dot on it. I just checked

Regarding the valve clearances on your bike, they don't need checking until it's done 16,000mls.

Chris.

[steveb]

Just checked mine too which I bought around Oct time and they are orangey red but def not pink like whats currently on the bike.

Dave Silver, my apologies

[chaz]

when I mentioned it in my other post, the ones I got from DS were pink spot, the ones on the motor Ive just removed are pink , the ones Fowlers sell are orange which supercede pinks.
maybe they have them mixed on the shelf or just replace the ones sold with new ones.

does anyone know then, if the internals have been modified in any way?