problem with engine mounting bolts

[davros]

Has anyone removed an engine recently. I'm removing the engine on the firestorm and have all the bolts out apart from the top front mount, I have removed the locking nuts but the bolt refuses to move even using an extension bar, put loads of penitrating fluid on it but still not shifting, I don't want to put too much force on it in case I bugger up the allen key socket, any advice?
cheers Phil.

[davros]

Thanks Timbo I suspected I would have to use heat on it, I was just worried I was doing something wrong, but if you've had the same problem I feel happier about doing it. Cheers

[gilson]

It's a mission! and a known problem... It always sticks here as the rain stays in the groove and the ally seizes to the steel bolt.

As Timbo said, that is one way. I tried to use a stilson's on, it, buggered up the bolt but they are not expensive (DaveSilver). I'd also recommend that you get both the adjustable bolt on the left hand side too if its corroded. Be sure tp copper grease it right up when you get it back in!!

Anyway, I took my engine to a local mechanic who had no choice but to cut it out bit by bit whilst knocking it through. It was terribly seized.

I feel your pain... but try heating it up with a torch or some description, and give it a proper twist with an allen key. If you round the socket, then you have no choice but to give it to a mechanic.. (it took my mechanic almost 4 hours work!).....he's a good chap and charged me for 2....

Good luck!

[bazza696]

Tony.mon had the same problem, in the end he took it to his mechanic who cut it out of the bike.

I dont fancy having to do this job any time soon.

[tony.mon]

Yup, gave up once I realised that I wasn't going to get a result, and took it to 21st Moto in Swanley, Kent.

They spent eight hours, hammering, heating, swearing, etc, and ended up cutting the bolt into four bits with a cutting disc.
Cost me £350 with the pick up and delivery- don't let anyone tell you Storms are a cheap option!

This was ok as the engine was lunched anyway, as long as the frame was undamaged I wasn't worried.

I still have the brand new unused long bolt, spacer/adjuster frame insert and nut, if that's of any use. PM me if interested.

Never fitted them, as I just rammed a 12mm S/S studding bar through and put a nut on both ends.
Not pretty, but seems to be effective, and I'm not playing any more!

Good luck....

[davros]

I may just cut out the bolt and worry about getting it out of the engine casing after, a new (to me) engine going in anyway, I can get new spacers made at work. All that heat and twisting can't be good for the frame and cutting it out seems like the least drastic option.

[tony.mon]

Is it the long one that goes all the way through, or one of the shorter ones?

[davros]

It's the long one.

[davros]

SUCCESS HOORAH! - I managed to get the engine bolt out, after deciding to cut through the bolt took 20 mins. First used a cutting disc to cut through on the inside the frame on left hand side of the engine block, then used the thread on the right hand side of the bolt to extract it using bigger spacers as it came out. Mighty releaved as it didn't budge at all using a lump hammer. Plenty of copper slip going on the new one.

[tony.mon]

Thinking about this, it might be worth putting a couple of grease nipples on those engine mount castings before installing the new bolt.

That'll make it easier next time the lump's out.

[davros]

You could make an aluminium sleeve with 'o-rings at each end to cover the exposed section of the bolt, if the fit was good enough no water should get in and the grease should stay in. Hopefully I won't have to do this job again any time soon!.