new chain?

[sepia]

hi all.

bike going ok since last problem sorted.

noticed @end of my 70mile trip run sat a clicking noise when slowing down.noticed chain a bit slack.on way home today from said 70 mile trip it was still clicking.had it tightened a month ago.

my cush rubbers are on way out as back sprocket moving a good bit.so that wont be helping.just orderd new ones today.

was @ garage today & mechanic tightened chain for free,he done it with side stand down.as pushing bike away heard loud creeking noise from chain.guy came out again,wasnt to pleased to be doing it again.said chain is wombles(said tight & slack bits)? & took wheel off the ground this time to do it & sprayed with lube.

now the chain is sounding & taking off better than ever.so dont know if he just said chain was knacked cause in bad mood & didnt do it right 1st time.dont want to buy new 1 if dont need.have sprayed with more lube.

seen chain & sprocket set on evil bay,will this be ok?(garage said to buy a good one).D.I.D X-RING CHAIN & SPROCKET SET for 97-05 firestorm.take it if doing chain its better to sprockets aswell.

thanks steve.

[benny hedges]

yeh m8 if you have tight spots the chain is fkt.
bet the sprockets have hooked teeth too?
always change chain with new sprockets or they will eat each other in no time.
worth spending the money on a decent o ring chain and get a universal scottoiler, chain will last twice as long.
unless you wheelie it a lot lol

suggest you put a 15tooth sprocket on the front - it's well better!

i use graphite & ptfe dry spray on mine. stops sh1t sticking to it.
it's easier to adjust the chain with the bike upright as well, on it's stand it's easy to get the allignment wrong and that will wear the chain real fast and make the bike handle like sh1t!
if you got no stands ask a m8 to hold the bars upright.
if you got no mates us a block of wood under side stand and prop right bar against the wall so it wont fall over.

watch you dont knock it off the stand when you undo the back wheel nut!
(dont ask......)

you need to check the chain more than every month imo, just test it with your foot.
scottoiler will keep it lubed as long as you keep it topped up.
sounds to me like you need to change your garage m8

btw i got my from here http://www.intobikes.co.uk/products/003 ... st&sd=DESC

very good quality and fast delivery.

[sepia]

cheers.

im on a budget @ the mo.

is the one i mentioned any good as in x ring chain,says better than o ring.

steve.

[benny hedges]

not used one meself, always used o ring with an oiler.
if youre on a budget its worth the 50 / 60 notes for an oiler or you will be changing the chain again next year.

[bazza696]

This is the one that I bought:

http://www.bitzforbikes.co.uk/DID_VM2_X ... 9-134.html

but I agree with benny, invest in an oiler and buy a cheaper o ring chain, it will cost you now, but in the long run you will make a saving. I bought the one above cause I don't do the miles, maybe 2k a year at the most so an oiler would not be worth it in my case.

[Jazzscot]

I have an scottoiler from an old Yamaha I used to have. can I mod it to use on the storm?? where about would I connect the vacuum?

Jazz

[bazza696]

on the side of the carb, where you fit a Carbtune to balance the carbs.

If you look from the right side of the bike you will see a little rubber cover, that is the vacuum take off, you have one the other side, but is a bit harder to get to.

[benny hedges]

I have an scottoiler from an old Yamaha I used to have. can I mod it to use on the storm?? where about would I connect the vacuum?

Jazz

have a look at the installation guides for each bike at http://www.scottoiler.com
it will show where and how it fits your bike.
if you need any extra adapters they send them to you free

[yorkshirepuddin]

Check these is your on a tight budget,

http://stealthproducts.co.uk/batteries.html

[Jazzscot]

cheers Benny I was having a look at the site today, didnt know there was free adapters going.Ill check it out
Jazz

have a look at the installation guides for each bike at http://www.scottoiler.com
it will show where and how it fits your bike.
if you need any extra adapters they send them to you free

[benny hedges]

have a look at the installation guides for each bike at http://www.scottoiler.com

jazz let us know if uve got bits missing cos ive loads left over from my new one

[Jazzscot]

will do benny, its on my list of things to do

Jazz

[tony.mon]

You need to adjust the chain with someone your weight sitting on the bike.
Otherwise the chain will be too tight when the rear suspension is fully compressed.

It's hard to get right with no load on the suspension; you can knock out a bearing.

Also it's normal with some after-market link pipes that the chain can be heard touching the link pipe on the LH side when wheeling it backwards; this isn't a sign that it needs to be tighter.
it won't do it once under power.

[bazza696]

You need to adjust the chain with someone your weight sitting on the bike.
Otherwise the chain will be too tight when the rear suspension is fully compressed.

It's hard to get right with no load on the suspension; you can knock out a bearing.

Also it's normal with some after-market link pipes that the chain can be heard touching the link pipe on the LH side when wheeling it backwards; this isn't a sign that it needs to be tighter.
it won't do it once under power.

So it's not my only my bike that does that, as she is in pieces I was going to whack the link pipe with a hammer to put a kink in it to stop it rubbing.

[tony.mon]

I never noticed it with standard ones on, and they have an indentation so they clear.
But some aftermarket ones do this, some don't.
As I said, it only does it when on a paddock stand or wheeling it backwards, forget it.
They'll never be enough contact to wear through the chrome, let alone the pipe, and the chain won't come to any harm.

Of course, if your chain's so slack that it flaps around and catches on nearby bits of bike when you're riding it, then you need to adjust it