problem

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sepia
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 1:06 pm

Re: problem

Post by sepia »

right guys & dolls.

girlfriends dad just came round with volt meter &just thought wed check the goosed battery & guess what it is sitting @ 13+ so battery is ok.

so what does that mean is wrong with bike???? & why did it start with jup leads.
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Pete.L
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Re: problem

Post by Pete.L »

Sounds very much like a partial short to me.
Now you have a volt meter you can test the regulator and wiring . I would start with the battery out and do some resistance checks from positive to earth. All the 12v line should have a very high or open circuit resistance to earth.
Pay special attention to the starter leads. I'm of an opinion the when you get the bike push started it runs but when you try to jump start that's when the smoking occurs? That would make me think of a bad starter motor, wire to it or solenoid.

Happy Hunting
Pete
My new ride is a bit of a Howler and I love to make her Squeal
sepia
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Re: problem

Post by sepia »

so battery not flat.

we used the meter on the two battery leads & was no connection & on the fuse box with fuses out & looks like there is bad conections from the headlights etc,just where all the water was.

so something was taking the power from the battery & not putting enough for trying to start bike.asked how it worked with jump leads & he said the car battery was giving me more power to get to start bike.

so does it sound like im having a short from the light switch housing/wiring.
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Pete.L
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Re: problem

Post by Pete.L »

Quite possibly :think:
I also don't like the bit about the lights changing brightness when the kill switch was switched on/off.
i think you are just going to have to look at each individual circuit separately. Start with one which isn't working and follow the wiring all the way through. Problem with this kind of fault is there are just so many possibilities and you've just got to tick them off the list one at a time or (Like Tony said) bite the bullet, chuck it in a shop and let a engineer have a look for you.

Pete.l
My new ride is a bit of a Howler and I love to make her Squeal
sepia
Posts: 141
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Re: problem

Post by sepia »

all my problems have been from that water in switch housing.there was a hell of amount of water.

last week after a night of rain i couldnt get bike started in the morning & got jump start & started straight away,it was fine for rest of the week.

dont know about kill switch.the lights on dash are very very faint & just go a wee bit brighter not a lot.when kill switch is @ its normal position when driving it must be live & when switched to cut off engine it must stop all power so in that position it must be not live & thats why dash getting that extra bit of power.

can i rule out ignition trouble as it started & was running with jump start.

steve.
tony.mon
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Re: problem

Post by tony.mon »

You might just be able to check what circuit is causing the short by unplugging all circuits (front, back and middle connectors) one at a time while batt connected and ignition on to see when the dash lights come on to normal brightness.
You'll have to be quite quick to do this before battery is once more dead from the short.
I'd start by unplugging the left and right handlebar connectors.

Once you establish which connector, when plugged in, is causing all the dash lights to dim then you have a chance of chasing down the offending component or wire.

Pete, you're right to mention the main starter lead as a point of weakness but this wouldn't cause the dash lights to dim BEFORE the engine is started, (or to be exact, starter pressed) so I don't think on this occasion it's the guilty party.

Steve, just for clarity, am I right in saying that the dash lights barely come on with the ignition switched on and you not touching the bike at all, i.e. no lights on, the kill switch set to the run position and all connectors connected normally?
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
sepia
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 1:06 pm

Re: problem

Post by sepia »

thanks for all the info

the dash lights are very very dull with just ignition on all lights off etc,cant remember if i wasnt touching the bike @ any point but think i did.
thought battery was flat but put on volt meter after checking new battery & the one i thot was flat is sitting @ 13.20.just presumed it was flat as dull dash lights,no power for starter lights,etc.

why was i getting full dash lights & starter(not as strong as usual) off the jump start.im in the middle of charging new battery & know when you put on clips to terminals you get the odd spark,i aint getting that off the battery i thought was flat.

so something is stopping the battery power getting to dash,starter,horn etc.but with jump from car it all works.is it just that something is taking my battery power but jump from car battery is giving me extra power to work it.why is what ever is taking my battery power aint taking that power from jump from car.

will be stripping it down tomorrow to check out the wiring.

tony it looks like nothing has flattened my battery its just the power not getting to where it should be.so looks like it aint anything to do with r&r or alt leads etc.think its deffo to with wiring/housing near front end.

thanks steve.
MJONESY
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Re: problem

Post by MJONESY »

this may sound silly but have you checked your battery cable terminals? are they all coroded or covered in cack? (may be worth cleaning them up with some sand paper) and have you checked what voltage you have at the starter solenoid? sounds to me like you either have bad terminals or a broken wire somewhere,

the bad terminals thing would also explain why it jump started as the jump leads may have been touching a clean point on the cable terminal as apposed to the battery terminals,
Last edited by MJONESY on Mon Apr 12, 2010 11:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
MJONESY
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Re: problem

Post by MJONESY »

the other thing does the bike have any sort of alarm/immobiliser may be that causing problems if there is
sepia
Posts: 141
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Re: problem

Post by sepia »

i did give them a clean up.they werent the best looking ones ive seen,lol.

will be trying new battery tomorrow & will give all connections a good clean.

think solinoide ok.

no alarm/immobiliser.
sepia
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Re: problem

Post by sepia »

just noticed bike place has givin me a ctx12-bs battery will this do or is it the wrong one.

thanks.
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benny hedges
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Re: problem

Post by benny hedges »

afaik the 12 is the standard battery bud, if you replace it again stick in a 14 for the extra cranking power.
the one you have should be fine :thumbup:
You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.
sepia
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 1:06 pm

Re: problem

Post by sepia »

thanks m8.

guy said it was a gel one but says battery fluid acid on box?.

just looked on google to see if battery ok & saw this......

I have a strange problem with my Firestorm.

A while back, the battery suddently died at a set of traffic lights, no lights, nothing.

After a bit of testing and confirming that the bike still ran when it was jumpered from a car battery, I replaced the battery.

Fired up first time, so me thinks problem fixed?

Anyway, issue is now, the battery labours to turn the engine over sometimes. To a degree where the LCD display fades out while cranking (and resets the clock etc).

Ive just had the battery load tested by the folks at Melville Honda (who were really helpful) and they say the battery is fine.

The Reg/rec unit has been tested and that seems to be OK (regulates the voltage from the generator to no more than ~14VDC)

Im at a loss for what else it can be.

Any ideas before I hand it over (and money I cant afford) to Honda?

SOUNDS LIKE MY PROBLEM.

I HAVE NOTICED THAT THE TRMINALS ON OLD BATTERY LOOK AS IF THEY HAVE CHANGED IN SIZE SWELLED A BIT & OUT OF SHAPE.

IM AWAY TO TRY NEW BATTERY SOON.IF MY TERMINALS ARE GOOSED THAT COULD BE WHY THE JUMP LEADS WERE HEATING UP CAUSE THE POWER FROM MY BATTERY & CAR BATTERY WASNT GETTING THROUGH CAUSE OF BAD CONNECTIONS.CAN IT BE THAT EASY?.WILL SOON FIND OUT.
sepia
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 1:06 pm

Re: problem

Post by sepia »

new battery in & started 1st time,lol.

tested the voltage with r&r connected & reading is 14.50 idle & 14.20 @ 5'000 revs.

only thing was when put meter on battery when idle she cut out but started ok,hadnt warmed bike up.

forgot to say(in a nice way,lol).on sat the girlfriend jumped on the back of the bike & thats when i went to start & problem started.could the weight of us both maybe off pulled a wire or moved battery connection.i did think connection on posative was a bit loose when was jumping it.

so can we say all is fine.

looks like battery terminals were goosed on old battery even though it had full power or battery was just goosed but got volt reading cause they are so sensative JUST LIKE MY STORM,lol.

should i be worried that maybe somthing else goosed battery/terminals.if one of the battery connections wasnt tight & when extra weight on bike slackened connection,could that cause a short when switched on ignition & fried battery?.maybe with all the car jumping & the heat & smoke wouldnt of helped.maybe all the charging,running with water in electrics & taking battery in & out more times than i can remember has taken its toll on the battery.

jsut glad i was justified in having to buy a new battery.

all these problems ive had with the storm is a bugger,but alot has just been common faults & wear & tear.taking in to account the bike is 14years old now.

PS JUST NOTICED THAT THERE IS A FAINT TICKING NOISE COMING FROM THE 2 BLACK IGNITION UNITS BEHIND THE BACK LIGHTS THIS NORMAL?.

thanks again steve.
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Dazjm
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Location: Perth, Gateway to the Highlands!

Re: problem

Post by Dazjm »

Mine ticks from the black boxes at the back too, so i hope its normal!
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