TUG wrote:Yea, if i'm giving the bike alot of stick when i hit 7000rpm it won't rev out anymore.
This is the bit that worries me, assuming you mean in all the gears, not just 6th.
Just fitting a can and filter shouldn't affect the mixtures enough to stop it revving out, it'll run leaner, sure, but nowhere near enough to give this effect.
You were worried about whether the air filter is causing this effect (not revving past 7000) and the only way a filter is likely to do this is if you have over-oiled it.
The easy and quick way to check is to try the bike fr a quick ride without a filter fitted; if it now revs fine then the filter is your problem.
Clearly the engine could then draw in dust and grit, so only do this for a very short run just to see if the engine now revs out ok.
Equally clearly, the mixtures will be even leaner, and therefore an extended run could lead to detonation, holes in pistons etc. SO I'm not recommending that you remove the filter permanently.
So try no filter just to see if you have a problem with your filter.
Assuming that this isn't the case, I agree that the next thing to check is to see if one cylinder is timed 180 degrees out.
It's easy to do, and is surprisingly common when dealer workshops (who should know better) rock it up.
In order to check this, see the excellent post in the workshop section which takes you through setting up the valve timing.
The key is to turn the engine over the correct number of degrees from setting the first cylinder, as the timing marks appear once, and you have to ignore them and then continue turning it over until they come round a second time.
It's easy to set it at the point when they first appear, and this leads to the symptoms you describe, getting breathless after 5000 and refusing to rev out.
CAVEAT:
Please note that the timing won't go 180 degrees out by itself, and so if the bike's ALWAYS done this since it was last adjusted for valve clearances, repaired after a CCT failure or the valve and cam timing was disturbed for any other reason then this is the likely culprit.
But if the bikes been fine, and then suddenly started to refuse to rev out properly then it's not going to be the valve/cam timing settings.
Other options could be battery/charging circuit, leaks in the inlets, coils, plugs or plug cap probs, split vacuum diaphragms in one or both carbs, split petrol tap diaphragm, blockages in the fuel lines, jets or carbs, etc, etc.
In my opinion it's unlikely that fitting cans and a filter will affect the mixture enough to stop it revving out, run roughly, sure, maybe (and more likely if it's running lean) pinking/pre detonation under load in higher gears, but certainly in lower gears it should be able to reach the redline no problem.
Lastly, just raising needles will only affect part of the carb's functions, it's likely that if the carbs need adjustment from standard you should also consider main jet, pilot jet sizes and emulsion tube, and it's easiest to just get a Dynojet or Factory Pro jet kit and use their recommendations.
However the best solution is to get it on a dyno with a good operator who will be able to set it to fuel perfectly, tailored to your engine, can, filter etc. Then if you change any of these, modify or add any new bits it should be rechecked.
Hope this clarification helps.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
The reason I ask is quite a few members on here seem to experience a flat spot in the rev range once a K&N air filter is fitted using standard carb settings (like yourself) and after market can's. So I am wondering if you're experiencing the same 
