Due to not using bike for a while, bad leg and off work, battery has gone flat and have to jump it.
Just used the multimeter and batt is showing around the 12 volts mark. When turned over it goes down to 6-8 volts. Just tested the charging rate on tick over and it,s showing around the 14 .5 volts mark so i,m assuming it,s charging ok but the battery is dying and wants replacing.
Do these figures sound about right for the storm . It,s just that the honda dealer stated that the battery wants replacing and that the R+R is showing 16.5 volts and is on it,s way out and wants R+R want replacing as well ( they replaced it with the finned type in type oct 07 any way).
Come on Guru Tony
Many Thanks
Give the bike a few revs and see if the volts are sticking to 14.8 volts. If they are, most likely the battery is kettled and needs replacing.
If the volts do rise to 16v at say 5k rpm, then you need a new rectifier too.
Sound like you did a good check, just do the same again and add a few revs
Pete.l
My new ride is a bit of a Howler and I love to make her Squeal
OK, when the reg rec fails , if it's the regulator part that goes (usually is) then you get a variable voltage output that goes to over 20 volts when you rev the bike.
Typical charging voltage at 14.5 is correct, if the battery isn't fully charged.
Battery certainly sounds knackered, voltage shouldn't drop below about 12 volts during starting; in my experience any less than 11.8 and it won't fire anyway.
(I have a combined gear indicator/voltage readout fitted permanently to mine, and can see the voltages during staring, running etc, so that explains how I know what it's doing).
You could try a battery conditioner, I've heard good things of de-sulphating cycles, but have no personal experience of these.
I'm quite excited about the new Lithium Ion batteries, they are expensive ATM but weigh about 400 grams rather than the 2 kilos of a normal lead/acid type. But they provide much more cranking life than a lead acid one.
I expect that the price will drop on these pretty quickly, and so (as my battery isn't holding a charge capable of starting the bike for more than two days parked up) I'm keeping a close eye on prices; if it gets to less than £70 (i.e. twice the cost of a cheap lead/acid) then that's my next battery.
Re replacing the r/r, they are a known weak point on VTR's and so lots of owners have replaced them with R1 or R6 Yamaha units which seem to be much more reliable.
If the r/r fails, it not only leaves you stranded roadside, but often takes the battery out, too. So for peace of mind, replace it with either the R1 or R6 conversion (see the Workshop Knowledgebase, it's quite straightforward) or the later Honda one, which is plug'n'play.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
many thanks for the advise pete and Guru Tony.
Got to test like pete said at 5000 rpm and see if the voltage changes. the R+R thats on now is the replacment finned type so I would have thought that it would still be ok . But hey you never know do yh. Fingers crossed.
I was looking at fitting permament volt meter on the dash some where, but not to sure on which sort to buy. there,s some led versions rather cheap on e bay .
