question

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sepia
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 1:06 pm

question

Post by sepia »

was driving down dundee saturday.
e0A
20miles down the road i felt like i got a puncture,back wheel all over the place.stopped & tyre ok.now my tyre is squared but getting new one next week.was alot of sidewind on way down,would that cause wheel wobble with squared tyre.also i put new front sprocket on thursday & i didnt want to tighten bolt to much as had a habit of over tightening things.i cant get my hand on tools to have a look @ the moment.did put screwdriver down the sprocket & i do have a wee bit of movement in & out on the sprocket.take it if the bolt has slackened thats where my wobbles from.

all i need is a tie wrap or mole grips to hold clutch slav from popping & cant get from anyone.so cant have a look @ sprocket yet.

steve.
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benny hedges
Posts: 6110
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:09 pm
Location: Warrington

Re: question

Post by benny hedges »

take the clutch lever off m8 and the slave pushrod will stay where it is.

suggest while you are down there have a look at the back shock linkages and see if theres any side to side play in the swing arm.
could be a bush thats gone or sumat as i cant see a loose sprocket making it ride like a flat????

also check the tightness of the rear spindle bolt.... ive had mine come loose on me & i was riding on the chain tensioners until i got home... not nice, especially when you realise what the problem is and youre 70 mile away lol :?
You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.
sepia
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 1:06 pm

Re: question

Post by sepia »

cheers benny.

i did only feel it on strong sidewinds & tyre is down past the minimum.after thinking having flat one minute it was driving a ton ok next was down to 70 & that was on the flat open bits.just thought the wind was pushing me onto the bits of tyre just past the squaring & it not knowing which way to pull.when driving in rain last week it wasnt steady then.seemed ok in town but im not that fast in town.

mate took a wee shot of bike friday & pulled a few wheelies by mistke when taking off & he aint no slim jim,lol.if bush gone i will know the reason.

will try & have a look @ it now.

steve.
sepia
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 1:06 pm

Re: question

Post by sepia »

wish i left it alone now,lol.

had to check sproket was ok for driving home.took of clutch slave & used a big wrench to stop cylnd popping out.it didnt go past where its not ment to,just the same as it was when done it friday.tried to put slav back on but wouldnt go on prop @bottom left corner.took it off again & then it went on ok.got bolts in ok but now clutch lever slacker & bite is now just a wee bit after i let clutch out instead of close to far out.what have i done wrong.will the cylinder not be going out enough to push rod in.was a wee bit of dirt round edge of cylinder.cylinder deffo didnt pop out past the edge.havnt lost any fluid that i can see unless lost some when puting it back on.have i lost presure somewhere.i also cant get bolt tightened on sprocket cover,the bottom one that has the wire holder.does tighten with out the wire holder on.

just thinking.is there anyway that i havnt put on sprocket cover right.the bottom bolt was just turning & never tightened but caught the thread without the wire holder.if not on right is that how clutch leaver is slacker as it has a space before it hits the rod.if this is the case,when i take off clutch slave will the cylinder be to far out & i wont get it back on.

when checked front sproket bolt it was on tight but the washer has a bit of movement.does the sprocket go on anyway round.it does move in & out a very tiny bit.

will i be ok to drive 70miles tomorrow.

any help welcome.ps dont know how to bleed clutch if thats my problem.

thanks steve.
tony.mon
Posts: 16294
Joined: Wed Jul 25, 2007 10:46 pm
Location: Norf Kent

Re: question

Post by tony.mon »

sepia wrote:
just thinking.is there anyway that i havnt put on sprocket cover right.the bottom bolt was just turning & never tightened but caught the thread without the wire holder.if not on right is that how clutch leaver is slacker as it has a space before it hits the rod.if this is the case,when i take off clutch slave will the cylinder be to far out & i wont get it back on.

when checked front sproket bolt it was on tight but the washer has a bit of movement.does the sprocket go on anyway round.it does move in & out a very tiny bit.

will i be ok to drive 70miles tomorrow.

any help welcome.ps dont know how to bleed clutch if thats my problem.

thanks steve.
Looks like you have a problem with the way the cover's gone on.
Can't remember exactly but aren't the bolts on the sprocket cover different lengths?
If you've got two back in the wrong place it might mean that the cover isn't fully home. There's also a dowel- bottom right as you look at it I think.

Run your finger around the edge of the cover, especially underneath and see if you can feel a gap.

Re bleeding:

Start with fresh Dot 4 brake fluid (specification is printed on the front brake reservoir filler cap).
Take a length of plastic tube (airline tubing from an aquarium is good, or whatever Halfrauds has in stock)
Slide the tube through the ring end of an 8mm spanner. Push the tube onto the bleed nipple near the slave cylinder.
Put the other end of the tube into an empty jam jar or similar glass container. Clip it there using a peg or tape.

Now concentrate- this sequence must be followed properly every repetition, all all the good work is lost!

Open the bleed nipple- one flat is all you need, so just enough to stop it being screwed all the way home.
Then pump the clutch lever, and hold it there, back to the bar.
While still held, nip up the bleed nipple.
Then release the lever.

Now keep doing this:
1. open bleed nipple
2. pull in clutch and hold it there
3. close nipple
4. let lever go.

Fluid should come out of pipe into jar.
CAUTION:
the reservoir is small, so it's really helpful to have someone keep an eye on the reservoir to make sure that you refill it when it's getting low- if it runs out you have to start all over again.

Keep doing this until no bubbles can be seen coming out of the end of the pipe in the jar. It can take up to half an hour! (ask Bazza) :wink:


OR buy a brake bleeding kit and follow the instructions. It's the same process, car or bike.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
sepia
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 1:06 pm

Re: question

Post by sepia »

thanks tony(got bolt & washer today,cheers for that) & mike.

cover looks as if it is right on & bolts in right place.clutch was a bit better today than it was sunday,without doing anything.will get bleeding done after have mot this week.

drove 70 miles this morning in stronger winds than saturday & had no wobble from back wheel.must of just been the way the wind was going sat that gave me a few wobbles.got new tyre today,could only afford the metziller @ £84 fitted.seems ok.

not only do we have alot of speed cameras between aberdeen & dundee,on saturday there was 3 speed vans 100 yards from a speed camera @ 3 of the cameras.lucky i seem to get flashed warnings from the car drivers.

thanks again guys & for the simple instructions.

steve
sepia
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 1:06 pm

Re: question

Post by sepia »

just to let you know,clutch nearly back to the way it was so dont think will have to bleed it.

im scared to ask,but had a wee ticking noise coming from engine last 2days.wasnt as bad today.anything to worry about?.

steve.
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benny hedges
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Location: Warrington

Re: question

Post by benny hedges »

sepia wrote:
im scared to ask,but had a wee ticking noise coming from engine last 2days.wasnt as bad today.anything to worry about?.

steve.
ah that'll be the hiroshima security system.
Image
cut the red wire.



no.... wait a minute.... cut the blue!

in fact i might be wrong - digital timebombs don't tick :roll:



it's a bit of clutch rattle cos of air in the hydraulics not taking up any play i'd say.
that's probably why it's ok now if the clutch is bled proper.
result. :thumbup:
You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.
sepia
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 1:06 pm

Re: question

Post by sepia »

lol.

cheers benny.ive always had a lot of clutch rattle.the ticking isnt like or as bad as that.

if anything else goes wrong with bike,i might just buy one of those digital timebombs,lol.

steve.
sepia
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 1:06 pm

Re: question

Post by sepia »

well had M.O.T today.

IT FAILED on front light shinning to high.

tester sorted it & passed it,had yous going there,lol.

very happy now. :D
sepia
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 1:06 pm

Re: question

Post by sepia »

i know im being a bit tight here but...

my vacume pipe is split in 2.keep taping up but heat from engine keeps undoing it.

am i ok to shove a lolly pop stick(one with hole down the middle,not a wooden one with joke on it)in either side of split.push together,tape it up & put a tie wrap either side of split round the fuel pipe to hold it in place.i know not to tie to tight as to stop fuel from getting through.

i just cant be bothered getting a new vacume @ the moment,need money for other things @ mo.

steve.
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benny hedges
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Location: Warrington

Re: question

Post by benny hedges »

lol seriously????
er yes m8 the lollystick will fix it.... in fact why not replace it with a piece of string :?

a length of rubber hose will cost you like £3 m8, less than a gallon of fuel, like the ones you are wasting atm!!!
if you can't afford £3 then go down to the nearest car scrapyard and look under bonnets for a piece of the same diameter hose. nick it.

if the hose is that bad & perished / split, the bike will run like sh1t & chances are the other hoses are in the same state.
if a fuel hose decides to rupture while you are riding..... well, you ever see eddie kid jump through burning hoops?
it'll be like that without the jumping, through and hoops. :Ball Kick:
You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.
sepia
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 1:06 pm

Re: question

Post by sepia »

lol.

think your right.just going back to my scooter days when anything will do.

all hoses are fine.just the vacume one was split in 2(taped up with a bit of hollow plastic in the middle)before i got it.

lolly stick didnt work as they are not made out of the plastic like they use to be.it broke in half,lol.

ok i did tape up with theold bit of plastic & tie wraped.is running smoother but will get it fixed proper asap.before i blow it up ,lol.

steve.
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AMCQ46
Posts: 16743
Joined: Mon May 11, 2009 4:54 pm
Location: Worcestershire / Warwickshire border

Re: question

Post by AMCQ46 »

you must be either from Scotland or brought up on a farm to revert to these type of solutions to save £3! :lol: :lol:

As I am the son of a Scottish Farmer, I can see where you are coming from, but even I would buy a new hose..............although I quite like Bennys suggestion to nick one from the local scrap yard.

get it fixed you cheapskate! :D
AMcQ
sepia
Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 1:06 pm

Re: question

Post by sepia »

thanks mike.

shall invest in that next time i pass halfords.will also get my oil @ same time.does there 10/40 come under motorbike or car oil.

cheers steve.
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