cct tension

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t11
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cct tension

Post by t11 »

Hello all got all set to do the manual cct job on sunday all striped off rear cylinder cam's set then I thought lets see when the tension of the chain is between the cam's is before I dismantle anything and to my surprise there was no play at all, so are the auto tensioners over doing there job ? also does anyone know the best way to remove the front cover as I want to check the valve clearance thanks........Gordon
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benny hedges
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Re: cct tension

Post by benny hedges »

front cam cover????
look underneath and you can see 2 8mm bolts holding the oil cooler bracket.
undo them and move the cooler out the way a bit... you dont need to undo the pipes.
then you can get the front cover off.

you will probably need to pull off the breather pipe on the left as well, the 20mm one.

make sure the engine is stone cold before checking the clearances.

the auto tensioners, the chain is held against spring tension... with manuals, you should be able to lift the chain up & down in the middle between the cam gears, approx 10mm, ie 5mm play up, 5mm down.
dont forget to stuff bogroll down the camchain tunnel so you dont drop the bolt lol - and use threadlock on the camchain guide bolts and the cam cover bolts.

best to get a magnet on a stick as well to lift the buckets off complete with the shim stuck inside, if you get that far... otherwise the shim is only held in place with a film of oil & it's hit or miss if it stays where it should.
sod's law says it will roll off somewhere it shouldnt :wtf:
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Stratman
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Re: cct tension

Post by Stratman »

Easier to remove the front cam cover if you whip the carbs off too.
Two bikes, still only four cylinders!

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tony.mon
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Re: cct tension

Post by tony.mon »

Stratman wrote:Easier to remove the front cam cover if you whip the carbs off too.
Agree with that, I can't stand trying to get at valve clearances by poking about under the fornt end, especially as any touch on the oil cooler mounting bolts under the headstock means crap drops into your engine.

So for me, quickest (and kindest on your back) is to go in from above, tank, airbox and carbs off, then remove the plastic shield, and there she is.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
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sirch345
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Re: cct tension

Post by sirch345 »

Gordon,
I also agree it's easier to remove the carbs etc :thumbup: I've done it both ways, from the front is definitely harder.

Are you sure you're at TDC on the compression stoke :?:

Chris.
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Stratman
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Re: cct tension

Post by Stratman »

I've done it both ways, from the front is definitely harder.
Oh, really :lol:
Two bikes, still only four cylinders!

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t11
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Re: cct tension

Post by t11 »

Hi People many thanks for the info, looks like carbs and plastic trim will be the better bet, and yes the cams where in the correct position (facing each other) just done a HID light conversion lights up the back garden like a scearch light...............
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benny hedges
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Re: cct tension

Post by benny hedges »

t11 wrote: yes the cams where in the correct position (facing each other) .
is that the front cams facing each other, the rear cams facing outwards?
if so that's correct... just hoping you dont mean both front & back were facing each other... if so it's 180 out lol!
you know the drill anyway, turn over by hand before hitting the button :think:
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sirch345
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Re: cct tension

Post by sirch345 »

benny hedges wrote:
t11 wrote: yes the cams where in the correct position (facing each other) .
is that the front cams facing each other, the rear cams facing outwards?
if so that's correct... just hoping you dont mean both front & back were facing each other... if so it's 180 out lol!
you know the drill anyway, turn over by hand before hitting the button :think:
Benny Hedges you're not paying attention, go to the back of the class :lol:

The rear cylinder cam lobes (at TDC on the compression stroke) should be facing towards each other :!: (not the other way round).

The front cam lobes (at TDC on the compression stroke) should be facing away from each other.

Gordon,
If you're not already, you can follow the steps in this link below, as it's the same procedure for renewing CCT's:-
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8326
Stratman wrote:
I've done it both ways, from the front is definitely harder.
Oh, really :lol:
:lol: I expected better from you Paul :lol:
Incidentally it was you who put me onto removing the carbs to gain access to the front cylinder in the first place. Up until then I had been struggling by attacking it from the front.

Chris.
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benny hedges
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Re: cct tension

Post by benny hedges »

oh, mine must be out then lol :lol:
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sirch345
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Re: cct tension

Post by sirch345 »

benny hedges wrote:oh, mine must be out then lol :lol:
Eureka :!: :lol: that must be it Benny, why you're getting such good mpg :thumbup:

Chris.
tony.mon
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Re: cct tension

Post by tony.mon »

Yeah setting cams 180 out will act as a 5K rev limiter- instant better mpg.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
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benny hedges
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Re: cct tension

Post by benny hedges »

sirch345 wrote:
benny hedges wrote:oh, mine must be out then lol :lol:
Eureka :!: :lol: that must be it Benny, why you're getting such good mpg :thumbup:

Chris.
lol i can assure you it's fine.... my bad lol, knew one went one way one the other... excuse me i'm getting old!

was just concerned t11 had set both sets of cams facing each other! :Ball Kick:
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