cct change

[dougie64]

hi all,,
iv a 97 firestorm with 32000 kmh on the clock and the clock,s ticking for the ccts to be changed,im going for genuine honda one,iv read the thread on converting them to manuel,but just going to stick the standerd oned on to save time .any way can anybody tell me why you cant just remove the old ones and replace without setting the tdc up,180degs if im right ,,many thanks ,,doug

[AMCQ46]

Stop, dont even think it, step away from the bike and put the allen keys down!

if you remove at any position other than tdc, the valve spring pressure will make the cam move and with no chain tension the timing will jump a tooth.

read, print, then reread the instructions as you go through the process in the garage. it is easy, but dont take short cuts.

I would also reccomend that you take the extra time to do the stopper mod on the new parts and then you have 100% peace of mind.

[dougie64]

ta for that mate as iv done them on four cylnder bikes but not for a good while,that makes a lot of sence , thats why ft and rt on the flywheel will do me homework first,im to old and long in the tooth for to many more rock ups,is there any need to take the rockercovers off,,to doug

[dougie64]

also one other thing,re stopper mods,how often do you need to adjust and what about uneven chain wear,,ta doug

[tony.mon]

Yes, you have to take off the rear cylinder cam cover. This is because on the TDC marks you can't tell if the engine is at TDC on compression or TDC on exhaust.
So you look at where the cam lobe sare on the rear pot.
Once you're sure you have the correct TDC set up, you put the cam cover back on, do the rear CCT and then turn the engine in a specific direction for a specific number of degrees.
this will put you at the correct TDC for the front one, and the job is a good one.

If you take the tension off the cam chain in the wrong place the ramp on the cam will cause the cam to turn while to crank is stationary, so putting the timing out.
Valves, allow me to introduce you to my piston.
Piston, this is valve.

Good news is rear cover is four easy to get at bolts, takes seconds. You have to take the tank off anyway to get to the front one, and there is the cam cover looking at you.

Uneven chain wear?
No worries, these run in an oil bath and although they'll wear a little, I couldn't imagine one breaking. Never heard of one going all by itself.

Re stopper mods, no need to adjust at all, the CCT still works as it's designed but the stopper prevents it unscrewing all the way if the spring fails.
If the mod's carried out correctly then the chain can't get slack enough to climb teeth on the cam sprocket when the spring goes.
That's when, not if, by the way....

[benny hedges]

not such an issue with the stopper mod, as the spring will provide the proper tension on the chain, but if you are to fit manual cct's, it's worth the extra 15 mins to take off the front cam cover to make sure you have set the right tension on the chain, too slack it will be noisy and could jump... too tight - loss of power and premature wear on the soft cam bearing and chains

[dougie64]

just changed the blighters,gen honda ones,front was dry back was running with oil,just in time i say,

[tony.mon]

Front's always dry, because it pokes upwards and oil won't run uphill.
That's why the springs suffer from corrosion and break, no oil film.