vtr brokedown
Re: vtr brokedown
got a complete front cyl head ready to fit from a '98 storm if yours is damaged. dealer sent it out in error instead of the SP1 head I ordered & I couldn't be arsed to send it back. I paid £110 for it, I'd take £65 inc p&p seeing as I don't have the storm any more. pm me if you need it - no rush, it'll still be here in 5 years time otherwise
Re: vtr brokedown
If you went down that route (with the crank damaged engine) he'd only need to take the head of and transplant that onto your storm + head gasket, fit new (manual!) tensioners etc. A tad overkill with fitting a whole replacement engine as the labour for performing a transplant, on say a 2nd hand £500 engine would make it more expensive than what your mechanic quoted initially.
If you could DIY then you could make very significant savings - even with splashing out on tools and swarfega. Where are you located as someone living near to you with experience in fixing could see what's what and lend you a hand.
edit) grab Deon O's offer! and you're half-way there
If you could DIY then you could make very significant savings - even with splashing out on tools and swarfega. Where are you located as someone living near to you with experience in fixing could see what's what and lend you a hand.
edit) grab Deon O's offer! and you're half-way there
It may be that your whole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others.
VTR Firestorm and other bikes t-shirts
VTR Firestorm and other bikes t-shirts-
hillyberry2009
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Wed Jul 14, 2010 7:22 pm
Re: vtr brokedown
sorry guys realy dont get it, so if i bought the cylinder head wat else would i need for the repair is it a straight swap and it goes or is it that i need other stuff ie camchain tensioners ? and thanks dean0 i will let you no as soon as ive spoke to mechanic wich will be on tuesday. oh yeh i live in walsall in west midlands thanks guys 
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benny hedges
- Posts: 6110
- Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:09 pm
- Location: Warrington
Re: vtr brokedown
yes m8 snatch deano's hands off for the spare cylinder head, you need to fit some new camchain tensioners as at least the front one has failed.
manual tensioners will ensure it doesnt happen again.
then all you need is a head gasket, coolant & oil / filter change (you will lose coolant when the head comes off and contaminate the oil, plus it could have bits of metal in it.
get a new copper exhaust gasket as well.
manual tensioners will ensure it doesnt happen again.
then all you need is a head gasket, coolant & oil / filter change (you will lose coolant when the head comes off and contaminate the oil, plus it could have bits of metal in it.
get a new copper exhaust gasket as well.
You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.
Re: vtr brokedown
Just double check that it was the front CCT that imploded before splashing out - More than likely it was as rear rarely fail.
It may be that your whole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others.
VTR Firestorm and other bikes t-shirts
VTR Firestorm and other bikes t-shirtsRe: vtr brokedown
You really only have two options re what's gone wrong:
1. the CCT's failed, and cam timing has jumped two or three teeth, allowing some or all valves in one head to touch the piston and bend, stopping them retracting back properly and hitting the piston each time it comes up to TDC.
2. As above, but one or more of the valve heads has broken off of the stem and then you're in trouble, as the piston tries to push it through the head. If that's the case, throw the engine away except for the gearbox, clutch and the undamaged head, as the pressures on big ends, mains, rods, head and piston mean all of those parts, plus the crank in most cases is a write-off.
So never mind the mechanic, take off the tank and airbox (easy job) then you can see both CCT's.
Undo the little cap bolt in the end and insert a small screwdriver. Turn the screwdriver clockwise, if it returns under spring pressure it's ok.
One of the CCT's won't do this; it'll just stay where you leave it, and won't reset itself.
That'll tell you which cylinder head is at fault.
Then take off the valve cover(four 10mm bolts), (if it's the front cyl, which it normally is, you'll have to remove the carbs. Leave the cables and pipework connected if you can, just undo the clamps round the inlet tracts and pull the carbs off, and move them out of the way. Then remove the plastic tray type thing (engine heat shield) and you can see the front cylinder much easier.
Once the cam cover is off, undo all the bolts holding the cam clamps in place, and the cam chain guide, including the little bolt in the side under the top cam chain run.
After they're removed, wriggle the cams out, but tie a piece of string round the cam chain to make it easier to pull out from the bottom of the engine where it will fall.
Now unbolt the head, two 10mm bolts in the cam chain tunnel first, then the six big bolts with 14mm heads.
Undo and move out of the way the exhaust headers, or if it's the rear one, just the link pipe.
Then lift off the head.
Once you've got that far, you'll be able to see whether the valves are still in the head, or if a valve has snapped and damaged the piston and the rest of the engine.
So why do I suggest you do this for yourself?
Because this will tell you whether your engine is rebuildable at a sensible price, or whether an exchange engine from a low mileage bike that's been in an accident is better.
You will have done some of the work for your mechanic, so he'll charge you less.
And you may well now have the confidence to rebuild it yourself. (All you'll need is someone to help you retime the engine, and set the valve clearances if you're not mechanically keen). The rest is just bolting stuff back on in the reverse order it came off.
I do suggest you get a lump from an accident victim, because then at least you know that the motor was running at the point of impact, and isn't someone else's CCT failure. Ask for pictures to prove it, or if from a breaker, a guarantee that the engine runs ok.
Chances are you'll get away with a replacement head, but TBH in almost all cases the head's rebuildable; just done my two today and it's not a lot of work or expense, compared to a replacement engine.
And the other point is that to swap engines over is lots of work; whereas to rebuild a head isn't too much at all. Lastly, the engine you buy could be a knackered lemon, rattly, smoky and with low compression, so be careful.
But £65 for a complete new head is a good buy, if it's complete with valves, buckets and springs. Cams are a bonus!
1. the CCT's failed, and cam timing has jumped two or three teeth, allowing some or all valves in one head to touch the piston and bend, stopping them retracting back properly and hitting the piston each time it comes up to TDC.
2. As above, but one or more of the valve heads has broken off of the stem and then you're in trouble, as the piston tries to push it through the head. If that's the case, throw the engine away except for the gearbox, clutch and the undamaged head, as the pressures on big ends, mains, rods, head and piston mean all of those parts, plus the crank in most cases is a write-off.
So never mind the mechanic, take off the tank and airbox (easy job) then you can see both CCT's.
Undo the little cap bolt in the end and insert a small screwdriver. Turn the screwdriver clockwise, if it returns under spring pressure it's ok.
One of the CCT's won't do this; it'll just stay where you leave it, and won't reset itself.
That'll tell you which cylinder head is at fault.
Then take off the valve cover(four 10mm bolts), (if it's the front cyl, which it normally is, you'll have to remove the carbs. Leave the cables and pipework connected if you can, just undo the clamps round the inlet tracts and pull the carbs off, and move them out of the way. Then remove the plastic tray type thing (engine heat shield) and you can see the front cylinder much easier.
Once the cam cover is off, undo all the bolts holding the cam clamps in place, and the cam chain guide, including the little bolt in the side under the top cam chain run.
After they're removed, wriggle the cams out, but tie a piece of string round the cam chain to make it easier to pull out from the bottom of the engine where it will fall.
Now unbolt the head, two 10mm bolts in the cam chain tunnel first, then the six big bolts with 14mm heads.
Undo and move out of the way the exhaust headers, or if it's the rear one, just the link pipe.
Then lift off the head.
Once you've got that far, you'll be able to see whether the valves are still in the head, or if a valve has snapped and damaged the piston and the rest of the engine.
So why do I suggest you do this for yourself?
Because this will tell you whether your engine is rebuildable at a sensible price, or whether an exchange engine from a low mileage bike that's been in an accident is better.
You will have done some of the work for your mechanic, so he'll charge you less.
And you may well now have the confidence to rebuild it yourself. (All you'll need is someone to help you retime the engine, and set the valve clearances if you're not mechanically keen). The rest is just bolting stuff back on in the reverse order it came off.
I do suggest you get a lump from an accident victim, because then at least you know that the motor was running at the point of impact, and isn't someone else's CCT failure. Ask for pictures to prove it, or if from a breaker, a guarantee that the engine runs ok.
Chances are you'll get away with a replacement head, but TBH in almost all cases the head's rebuildable; just done my two today and it's not a lot of work or expense, compared to a replacement engine.
And the other point is that to swap engines over is lots of work; whereas to rebuild a head isn't too much at all. Lastly, the engine you buy could be a knackered lemon, rattly, smoky and with low compression, so be careful.
But £65 for a complete new head is a good buy, if it's complete with valves, buckets and springs. Cams are a bonus!
Last edited by tony.mon on Sun Oct 24, 2010 5:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
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hillyberry2009
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Wed Jul 14, 2010 7:22 pm
Re: vtr brokedown
ok thanks guys so as sooon as ive spoke to mechanic ill sort it out with deano thanks again your all very helpfull 
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hillyberry2009
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Wed Jul 14, 2010 7:22 pm
Re: vtr brokedown
hi all sorry about the late reply ive spoke to the mechanic on tuesday and asked if he wanted the cylinder head as you guys suggested and he said he thinks my head is fine so hes NOW going to strip it down and see wat the damage is but last wekend when i spoke to he he said he had alredy stripped it and quoted me £230 for the bits i needed and now hes sayin he still needs to strip it so just to say sorry to deano as i still dont no wats happening with my bike grrrrr