Hello
The gear change on mine is clunky and horrible especially between 1st and 2nd ,is this usual?
Very embarrassing in town.
thanksfromPaul
Gear Change
Re: Gear Change
Several things could be contributing, a sticky/dirty clutch pushrod is your first possibility. Just remove the clutch slave cylinder, then the sprocket cover, pull out the pushrod and clean that and inside the sprocket cover.
Make sure you put the pushrod back in the same way round.
Secondly, the gear lever linkage could need adjusting, try to set it so that the actuator arm which bolts onto the shaft coming out of the engine is at 90 degrees to the rod when stationary.
The bearing where the gear lever itself bolts onto the footrest sometimes wears as well, if it's wobbly you could try a new one and mounting bolt; this gives you better actuation and less slop in the gearchange.
Benny has done a conversion to fit a small journal in there; don't know how much work or cost this entails. (Almost none if you have a lathe to hand, probably).
Thirdly, it could be a clutch slave cylinder weeping fluid past the seal. Not unknown on these. Keep a careful eye on the fluid level in the reservoir. If it drops at all, that's the problem. Also the fluid drops out form behind the sprocket cover, mixed with chain lube, and can damage paintwork, so be careful.
You can buy replacement seal kits from David Silvers.
Next thing to try is the Clutch itself, the "fingers" which hold the friction plates in the basket can wear so that instead of sliding smoothly the plates ride up and down a miniature roller coaster as the slide out; these can be filed smooth without affecting clutch operation but you'll need to strip the RH side of the engine off (fairing off, coolant out, clutch side cover off and undo the big clutch nut (needs a special holding tool) before you can get the clutch off.
(You can do it in situ, without the special tool, but any filings drop straight into the engine- not good).
Worst case is bent/overheated/worn gearchange forks, and/or worn engagement dogs on those gears. If so this is an engine out, split the crankcases job.
Sorry, but you asked........
Make sure you put the pushrod back in the same way round.
Secondly, the gear lever linkage could need adjusting, try to set it so that the actuator arm which bolts onto the shaft coming out of the engine is at 90 degrees to the rod when stationary.
The bearing where the gear lever itself bolts onto the footrest sometimes wears as well, if it's wobbly you could try a new one and mounting bolt; this gives you better actuation and less slop in the gearchange.
Benny has done a conversion to fit a small journal in there; don't know how much work or cost this entails. (Almost none if you have a lathe to hand, probably).
Thirdly, it could be a clutch slave cylinder weeping fluid past the seal. Not unknown on these. Keep a careful eye on the fluid level in the reservoir. If it drops at all, that's the problem. Also the fluid drops out form behind the sprocket cover, mixed with chain lube, and can damage paintwork, so be careful.
You can buy replacement seal kits from David Silvers.
Next thing to try is the Clutch itself, the "fingers" which hold the friction plates in the basket can wear so that instead of sliding smoothly the plates ride up and down a miniature roller coaster as the slide out; these can be filed smooth without affecting clutch operation but you'll need to strip the RH side of the engine off (fairing off, coolant out, clutch side cover off and undo the big clutch nut (needs a special holding tool) before you can get the clutch off.
(You can do it in situ, without the special tool, but any filings drop straight into the engine- not good).
Worst case is bent/overheated/worn gearchange forks, and/or worn engagement dogs on those gears. If so this is an engine out, split the crankcases job.
Sorry, but you asked........
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
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Fireman on a Storm
- Posts: 1225
- Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2003 5:59 pm
- Location: Romford
Re: Gear Change
Adjust the chain and lower the fear lever for starters.
1st to second on both of my storms was clunky. The adjustments above helped on both
1st to second on both of my storms was clunky. The adjustments above helped on both
Re: Gear Change
Damn! forgot that one.... 
Yes, do that first, although it shouldn't affect it going into first, unless the chain is slapping the swingarm when engaged?
Anyway, can't do any harm to try that and see if it sorts the problem.
Yes, do that first, although it shouldn't affect it going into first, unless the chain is slapping the swingarm when engaged?
Anyway, can't do any harm to try that and see if it sorts the problem.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
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benny hedges
- Posts: 6110
- Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:09 pm
- Location: Warrington
Re: Gear Change
just new heavy duty rose joints - m6 male/male rt hand thread on the shaft end and 1 left hand/ 1 right hand thread on the gearlever end.tony.mon wrote: Benny has done a conversion to fit a small journal in there; don't know how much work or cost this entails. (Almost none if you have a lathe to hand, probably).
i just drilled through & put a nyloc nut on the end.
the rose joints are only a fiver off ebay & have a good quality rubber boot to keep them clean & lubed.
dead easy, half hr job & made a big difference to the standard sloppy gearchange.
do a search on here for 'rose joints' for some pics and a link to the seller.
You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.
Re: Gear Change
clunk 1st to 2nd is normal, but shouuldnt be so bad that you are embarrassed.
Good chain tension and cush drive will help, as will short shifting 1st to 2nd with the revs just right.
Good suggestion on lowering the lever, but there is also a tip on the USA superhawk site to help make the lever throw shorter, and that is to move the gear change arm clockwise [rotate it forward] on the gear shaft by one more spline, so the operating arm is furter away from 90degrees to the rod than it is now. This makes te emechanical advantge worse [ie it may take more force from your foot], but it will have a shorter travel and might help the clunk.
I have done it on mine and I think it makes the change more precise.
final solution is louder pipes
Good chain tension and cush drive will help, as will short shifting 1st to 2nd with the revs just right.
Good suggestion on lowering the lever, but there is also a tip on the USA superhawk site to help make the lever throw shorter, and that is to move the gear change arm clockwise [rotate it forward] on the gear shaft by one more spline, so the operating arm is furter away from 90degrees to the rod than it is now. This makes te emechanical advantge worse [ie it may take more force from your foot], but it will have a shorter travel and might help the clunk.
I have done it on mine and I think it makes the change more precise.
final solution is louder pipes
AMcQ
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oldbikeman
- Posts: 280
- Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2010 3:32 pm
Re: Gear Change
Hello
I have to change between 1st/2nd at very low speeds and time the throttle to a few revs to avoid nasty clunks up or down .The top five gears are ok-ish.The clutch doesn't feel to be binding but the gear selection is stiff.It feels as if the gear lever is too short for the amount force needed. At less than 6k it's sad to pull it apart .Are these boxes tight from new?
ThanksfromPaul
I have to change between 1st/2nd at very low speeds and time the throttle to a few revs to avoid nasty clunks up or down .The top five gears are ok-ish.The clutch doesn't feel to be binding but the gear selection is stiff.It feels as if the gear lever is too short for the amount force needed. At less than 6k it's sad to pull it apart .Are these boxes tight from new?
ThanksfromPaul
Re: Gear Change
Sounds fairly normal for a storm.oldbikeman wrote:Hello
I have to change between 1st/2nd at very low speeds and time the throttle to a few revs to avoid nasty clunks up or down .The top five gears are ok-ish.The clutch doesn't feel to be binding but the gear selection is stiff.It feels as if the gear lever is too short for the amount force needed. At less than 6k it's sad to pull it apart .Are these boxes tight from new?
ThanksfromPaul
Rich.
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henryhoover
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Sat Dec 04, 2010 6:03 pm
Re: Gear Change
What ever you do don't pussy foot around trying to engage 2nd gear gently hoping that it may not clunk in, if you do this & the gear doesn't fully engage you can damage the dogs on the gear, just make sure you make a positive shift each time.
Cheers.
Cheers.