Howdo
I've heard about raising the rear shock with a spacer to improve the storm's handling. I saw this on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VTR1000-VTR-1000- ... 660wt_1139
Would this do the job as advertised? Any help appreciated. And has anyone done the mod - is it good? I've got a standard bike and I'm intending to keep it that way suspension wise (£££'s....)
Cheers
Raising the rear
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benny hedges
- Posts: 6110
- Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:09 pm
- Location: Warrington
Re: Raising the rear
yes it will do the job and it does make a difference, but that spacer on ebay is only 3mm thick so you might want to buy 2.
or just make your own.
get a 40x25mm piece of steel or ally, drill a 10mm hole in the centre, then hacksaw the hole to the edge as in the ebay spacer.
a 5mm spacer will raise the rear by about 15mm.
it goes under the rear shock mount under the seat at the back of the tank - just loosen the 17mm nut and pull the bike over on the sidestand, pop the spacer in & tighten the nut up again.
also helps to drop the forks through the yokes and bars 5-10mm, so they stick up a little through the bars.
you need to remove the retaining clips to do this - and don't undo the pinch bolts too much or the forks will drop right through lol, make sure they are good & tight before going on the road!
what size rear tyre do you have on the bike btw - and brand / type...
it will help the bike turn in faster and hold a tighter line in curves.
or just make your own.
get a 40x25mm piece of steel or ally, drill a 10mm hole in the centre, then hacksaw the hole to the edge as in the ebay spacer.
a 5mm spacer will raise the rear by about 15mm.
it goes under the rear shock mount under the seat at the back of the tank - just loosen the 17mm nut and pull the bike over on the sidestand, pop the spacer in & tighten the nut up again.
also helps to drop the forks through the yokes and bars 5-10mm, so they stick up a little through the bars.
you need to remove the retaining clips to do this - and don't undo the pinch bolts too much or the forks will drop right through lol, make sure they are good & tight before going on the road!
what size rear tyre do you have on the bike btw - and brand / type...
it will help the bike turn in faster and hold a tighter line in curves.
You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.
Re: Raising the rear
Thanks benny
It's on dunlop roadsmarts, standard sizes and wheels from the manual
the storm does feel very nose up compared to my cbr, even the hornet I had. It gives that feeling of having to 'push' it up a turn.
It's on dunlop roadsmarts, standard sizes and wheels from the manual
the storm does feel very nose up compared to my cbr, even the hornet I had. It gives that feeling of having to 'push' it up a turn.
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benny hedges
- Posts: 6110
- Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:09 pm
- Location: Warrington
Re: Raising the rear
well it won't when you raise the back end, it should tip in fine.
what notch have you got the shock on? im 14st and use 2nd notch - when i got the bike it was on the 5th, hardest setting and it was like riding a pogo stick.
if you drop the forks, dont drop them too much or it gets a bit twitchy at low speed.
just be carefull parking tho as the bike will lean forward a bit more aggressively and be a bit more upright on the prop stand.
re the tyres, was just wondering if you'd put a 190 on the back or squared it off....
standard tyres are 120 & 180.
you might want to think about putting some firmer springs in the forks.... i have wirth progressive springs from wemoto in mine and it made a lot of difference to the handling.
what notch have you got the shock on? im 14st and use 2nd notch - when i got the bike it was on the 5th, hardest setting and it was like riding a pogo stick.
if you drop the forks, dont drop them too much or it gets a bit twitchy at low speed.
just be carefull parking tho as the bike will lean forward a bit more aggressively and be a bit more upright on the prop stand.
re the tyres, was just wondering if you'd put a 190 on the back or squared it off....
standard tyres are 120 & 180.
you might want to think about putting some firmer springs in the forks.... i have wirth progressive springs from wemoto in mine and it made a lot of difference to the handling.
You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.
Re: Raising the rear
TBH I have found that dropping the yokes about 5 mm, using heavier fork oil and changing the fork springs for some meatier ones worked a treat. I wouldn't bother with the spacer IMHO
Two bikes, still only four cylinders!
Re: Raising the rear
I weigh 10 3/4 stone, and have the rear shock set as standard. 180 and 120 tyres, still newish and have a nice profile. They are great for commuting now its cold and wet. They handled a warm cadwell track day too and I've no complaints - all the grip, it was the suspension and brakes that couldn't cope with going any faster.
I'm not overkeen on dropping the forks if it can make it a touch twitchy because I do an urban commute - often doing naughty flick in and outs at low speed.
But I do plan to track her in spring and autumn (and hire sportsbikes in summer when there's a chance of a drier day (!), so an extra bit of sportiness wouldn't go amiss
I'm not overkeen on dropping the forks if it can make it a touch twitchy because I do an urban commute - often doing naughty flick in and outs at low speed.
But I do plan to track her in spring and autumn (and hire sportsbikes in summer when there's a chance of a drier day (!), so an extra bit of sportiness wouldn't go amiss
Re: Raising the rear
At less than 11stone, the back shock will be too hard even on setting 1, but and the front forks will still be too soft! [figure that out 
].
3mm spacer with the shock on lowest preload will be a good start, and you will feel it turn in better. I would get the froks upgraded with stiffer springs and oil before you drop them too much. Until they are fixed, there is a small risk of headshake if you drop the front [or raise the rear] too much. so 3mm on the rear will be fine now, but once you have the forks sorted you can then go for more to get the turn in / stability compromise that works for you.
As benny said, you can make your own with some good sized 1mm washers, then you add 1 at a time till you like the result.
].3mm spacer with the shock on lowest preload will be a good start, and you will feel it turn in better. I would get the froks upgraded with stiffer springs and oil before you drop them too much. Until they are fixed, there is a small risk of headshake if you drop the front [or raise the rear] too much. so 3mm on the rear will be fine now, but once you have the forks sorted you can then go for more to get the turn in / stability compromise that works for you.
As benny said, you can make your own with some good sized 1mm washers, then you add 1 at a time till you like the result.
AMcQ
Re: Raising the rear
Tony's tips # 7:
If you're dropping the yokes on the forks, only undo one side at a time.
That way it can't fall all the way down, and you don't have to realign the forks/stem/wheel.
By rotating the fork leg you can move it up or down the required amount easily. Just twist it a bit one way, then a bit the other while adding pressure in the required direction.
If you're dropping the yokes on the forks, only undo one side at a time.
That way it can't fall all the way down, and you don't have to realign the forks/stem/wheel.
By rotating the fork leg you can move it up or down the required amount easily. Just twist it a bit one way, then a bit the other while adding pressure in the required direction.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.