rear cylinder timing

[tattoo]

it may be me lookin at it all wrong but how are you spose to see the exhaust cam timing marks on the rear cylinder with it being hidden behind the frame,can you lock the cam sprockets together by the means of a small locking bar or is it a case of looking round the frame and hoping it's right.

this is just a tensioner change but i suspect the timing has slipped a tooth or two as the chain rides up on the sprocket when turned by hand so any advise would be great before i set about it
many thanks.....

[sirch345]

You're right the RE mark is not the easiest to see on the rear cylinder. The best way I've found is to lay a steel ruler flat on top of the cylinder head keeping it as close as you can to the cam wheels. Then using a mirror and lead lamp you can see the mark easier. Don't laugh but I've found a magnifying glass helps.

If the timing has slipped as you suggest on the rear cylinder don't go starting it. Try turning the engine over very slowly/carefully (spark plugs out will make it easier) using a socket on the end of the crank through the alternator cover after removing the center cap first (beware they're soft as cheese). If it will turn over OK then most likely no damage has been done to the valves. If it won't turn over then some of the valves will be touching the piston.

If the valve timing has slipped on the rear cylinder a lot more than a tooth or so you will need to confirm the front cylinder valve timing is correct first, then set the rear cylinder up from there.

Chris.

PS. If you've not already, take a look at this first before removing either CCT:-
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8326

[tattoo]

So if i read it right the lobes should be facing inwards and not away from each other as with the front cylinder and the RE N R1 marks should be facing away.

i only think it may have jumped a tooth or two because on inspection i noticed the camchain riding up on the sprockets altho it does turn thro 360 degrees with no problems...i've printed the post so i can refer back to it as i go

thanks for the advice chris

andy.

[sirch345]

So if i read it right the lobes should be facing inwards and not away from each other as with the front cylinder and the RE N R1 marks should be facing away.

i only think it may have jumped a tooth or two because on inspection i noticed the camchain riding up on the sprockets altho it does turn thro 360 degrees with no problems...i've printed the post so i can refer back to it as i go

thanks for the advice chris

andy.

Yes Andy you've got that right, before removing the rear CCT the lobes should be facing towards each other (as photo below) and the RE and RI marks on the cam sprockets facing away from each other as you say.

Once you've done that and the RT mark lines up with the alternator cover mark you are safe to remove the rear CCT.


Good news you can turn the engine over 360 degrees, although remember a full cycle for this V twin engine is actually 720 degrees (2 full turns).IMHO a good idea printing off the post.

Chris.

[tattoo]

The post was fantastic and it went without any trouble,i realised it was two turns for full cycle when i lined the rt mark up and it wasn't TDC on the cylinder,i did however recheck the front timing before pushing the starter button.

It still runs alittle lumpy but i'm putting that down to having the carbs on n off and being out of balance,i've never done this before but reading the manual it sounds quite easy to do so thats the next job after i do an antifreeze change.

thank for the help chris.

Andi.

[sirch345]

The post was fantastic and it went without any trouble,i realised it was two turns for full cycle when i lined the rt mark up and it wasn't TDC on the cylinder,i did however recheck the front timing before pushing the starter button.

It still runs alittle lumpy but i'm putting that down to having the carbs on n off and being out of balance,i've never done this before but reading the manual it sounds quite easy to do so thats the next job after i do an antifreeze change.

thank for the help chris.

Andi.

Well done Andy in getting it fixed

Balancing the carbs is a good idea seeing as they have been removed and refitted. Also check you remembered to refit the TPS (throttle position sensor) onto the carbs after you refitted them.

Remember to use silicate free coolant.

Out of interest was the timing out a tooth or two

Chris.

[tattoo]

why silicate free anti freeze??? have always used normal stuff..

timing was ok,must of been my imagination as i checked,double checked and checked again...getting some vacuum gauges tomorro(saturday) and giving it a go altho local bike shop says he'll do it for £25 but how will i learn if i let him do it...yeah the throttle sensor is fitted so hopefully balancing the carbs should fix the lumpy running.

also got a shock from my insurance too,apparantly my blue screen,levers,bar ends and the bellypan are modifications as are the micros (which i knew were tbh) and this little lot adds upto £300 on my premium...how dumbs that??

thanks for the help chris

andi

[tony.mon]

I know it's easy to use hindsight etc, but I wouldn't have told them, then if they try to withhold payment, sue them.
That way they have to prove that the modifications have a detrimental effect on the performance of the bike, or make it more likely to be stolen.

I'd be intrigued to find out how on earth they would persuade a judge that fitting blue anodised crankcase bolts or bar eds would make the bike a thief magnet.


And they can't back-date the additional premium, as they don't know when the parts were fitted.

[sirch345]

why silicate free anti freeze??? have always used normal stuff..

Andy, the silicate will damage the water pump seals over a period of time.
Have a look at the container (if you still have it) of what you normally use, it may not have silicate in it.

Good too hear the timing was not out after all At least you gave it a good checking which is the thing to do if you're unsure, rather than press the starter button first. Well done

Once you worked out how to do the carb balance you find there's very little to it. Like you say you won't learn if you don't do it yourself. If you should get stuck you've only got to post on here

Chris.

[tattoo]

chris. i've looked on the container and it said concentrate ethylene glycol,i've done a 50/50 mix so it's good for -36 tho...as for the balancing,i've left it for now as the snows here,i've looked at the manual over n over again and looked at where all the relative pipes fit and adjusting screws are on the carbs and as you say it looks relitively easy so i'm going to do it myself.

tony.mon. i could understand mods like turbos,tuning,nitos but for the life of me don't understand how colored bolts,screen and afew stickers would make any bike more appealing to thieves afterall if they want the bike no amount of security will stop them getting it as my mate foundout earlier this year...his cbr600 was parked in his garage with a ground anchor,chain,alarm on and his landrover parked as close as he could get it but it still went...they unscrewed the door and just lifted it over the landrover....

[sirch345]

chris. i've looked on the container and it said concentrate ethylene glycol,i've done a 50/50 mix so it's good for -36 tho...as for the balancing,i've left it for now as the snows here,i've looked at the manual over n over again and looked at where all the relative pipes fit and adjusting screws are on the carbs and as you say it looks relitively easy so i'm going to do it myself.

Andy, you could check up with the manufacturer of your coolant (email them if you can't find the info online) if the container doesn't tell you what's in it. It's up to you really, but if it does contain silicate (as I mentioned before) over time it will damage your water pump seals.

I don't blame you for not wanting to do the carb balancing right now with the snow about Good luck with it when you do get around to doing it.

Chris.