I was going to add a charging socket so that I could plug in a battery conditioner/charger, but I also wanted a socket that I could power accessories from, such a s a Satnav, light or mobile charger.
I didn't want it to be permanently live when acting as an accessories socket, so it will need to be connected via a switched live for output purposes, but I wanted to be able to charge the battery without the ignition on.
So I came up with this:
http://i616.photobucket.com/albums/tt25 ... 2910498584
Question is, what size or spec diodes would I need?
(yes, I'll put an in-line fuse in, didn't bother showing that in the diagram)
Suggestions gratefully received as to how this might be improved.
Electrical accessories socket and charging socket
Electrical accessories socket and charging socket
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
Re: Electrical accessories socket and charging socket
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 80&start=0
This is what I fitted tony, Look up a chap called Towza . He deals with all bike electrics. He should be able to point your in the right direction. Not dear either.
You wil find him on e bay .
This is what I fitted tony, Look up a chap called Towza . He deals with all bike electrics. He should be able to point your in the right direction. Not dear either.
You wil find him on e bay .
Re: Electrical accessories socket and charging socket
Thanks for that.
I remembered the thread, but wanted to add the two diodes so that the socket didn't stay live when the ignition wasn't on, but it would allow current to flow towards the battery, which was a feature I hadn't seen on other installations.
I've already got the parts, but just needed some advice re the diodes, as I don't know what rating they need to cope with the >10A load from a battery charger in the "to battery" direction, as opposed to the "to socket" direction.
I could use diodes from reg/rec's, if I can dig them out of the potting, but it seems a shame to cannibalise a perfectly good RR to get two diodes.
So come on, Leccies, advice welcomed
I remembered the thread, but wanted to add the two diodes so that the socket didn't stay live when the ignition wasn't on, but it would allow current to flow towards the battery, which was a feature I hadn't seen on other installations.
I've already got the parts, but just needed some advice re the diodes, as I don't know what rating they need to cope with the >10A load from a battery charger in the "to battery" direction, as opposed to the "to socket" direction.
I could use diodes from reg/rec's, if I can dig them out of the potting, but it seems a shame to cannibalise a perfectly good RR to get two diodes.
So come on, Leccies, advice welcomed
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
Re: Electrical accessories socket and charging socket
OK, here's a bit more detail.
The idea is not only to have a socket to power such stuff as Satnav and maybe a mobile phone/laptop power supply/charger, but also to act as a charging point for two things:
1. a battery charger which I can plug in when the bike hasn't been started for a week or so to give it a trickle charge, without having to take the seat off and plug it in.
2. a solar panel, putting out 12v plus. I have one of these keeping a leisure battery topped up which runs a pumped water system in the greenhouse, and it keeps that bigger battery topped up nicely.
I have a voltmeter fitted to the bike which gives a volts display at the dash, which means that I can see at a glance when the battery needs a small boost before starting, or a top-up. Anything 12 or over is likely to start, once it drops below 12 it gets marginal as to whether it'll catch before the battery runs out of puff. Now that I have high compression pistons in it is harder to turn over, and so even though I have the uprated (14) battery fitted I still anticipate occasional problems, and I hate bump-starting big twins and singles- all that running and jumping with all your kit on, while onlookers shout helpful remarks, etc.
I don't intend to leave a charger permanently plugged in, because I ride quite often, and the bike rarely stands for more than three days between rides. So it won't need charging very often, but I hate it when I go to start it and have to stand there for half an hour while the charger puts in just enough to get it to start, having taken the seat off, gone to the garage to get the charger and plugged it in, etc.
This way I can merely check the voltage before getting my gear on, and plug either charger in if I feel it might be needed. Or check it the day before and plug in the solar one.
The solar one can also be left strapped on the seat if I need to leave it for a few days at a rally or camping weekend, and I know the battery will then be able to start it when I want to ride off.
But I really don't want a permanently live socket sitting in the dash area, partly because I don't want to find that I've left something plugged in and it's flattened the battery.
So the way I've designed the circuit is so that the current can only flow towards the socket] when the ignition is switched on, but current can flow [/b]towards[/b] the battery at any time.
Apart from the diodes I have all of the components in stock, and so all I need is some idea of what diode spec, and I'm a quick trip to Maplins away from having it installed.
UPDATE:
Just discussed this with someone who knows what they're doing, and they pointed out that diodes drop voltage by about .7V, and so this will have the effect of reducing voltage available at the socket, but also reducing the current flow into the battery, which will mean that the charger is less effective.
As one of the options is to connect a solar panel charger, this will probably mean that effectively the trickle charging will be reduced to almost nothing, except on sunny days.
Unfortunately the biggest load on the starter circuit and battery is on cold, short, gloomy winter days, and so I have decided to skip the diodes and wire the socket direct.
Thought I'd post this info for anyone else who might have come up with the same idea.
The idea is not only to have a socket to power such stuff as Satnav and maybe a mobile phone/laptop power supply/charger, but also to act as a charging point for two things:
1. a battery charger which I can plug in when the bike hasn't been started for a week or so to give it a trickle charge, without having to take the seat off and plug it in.
2. a solar panel, putting out 12v plus. I have one of these keeping a leisure battery topped up which runs a pumped water system in the greenhouse, and it keeps that bigger battery topped up nicely.
I have a voltmeter fitted to the bike which gives a volts display at the dash, which means that I can see at a glance when the battery needs a small boost before starting, or a top-up. Anything 12 or over is likely to start, once it drops below 12 it gets marginal as to whether it'll catch before the battery runs out of puff. Now that I have high compression pistons in it is harder to turn over, and so even though I have the uprated (14) battery fitted I still anticipate occasional problems, and I hate bump-starting big twins and singles- all that running and jumping with all your kit on, while onlookers shout helpful remarks, etc.
I don't intend to leave a charger permanently plugged in, because I ride quite often, and the bike rarely stands for more than three days between rides. So it won't need charging very often, but I hate it when I go to start it and have to stand there for half an hour while the charger puts in just enough to get it to start, having taken the seat off, gone to the garage to get the charger and plugged it in, etc.
This way I can merely check the voltage before getting my gear on, and plug either charger in if I feel it might be needed. Or check it the day before and plug in the solar one.
The solar one can also be left strapped on the seat if I need to leave it for a few days at a rally or camping weekend, and I know the battery will then be able to start it when I want to ride off.
But I really don't want a permanently live socket sitting in the dash area, partly because I don't want to find that I've left something plugged in and it's flattened the battery.
So the way I've designed the circuit is so that the current can only flow towards the socket] when the ignition is switched on, but current can flow [/b]towards[/b] the battery at any time.
Apart from the diodes I have all of the components in stock, and so all I need is some idea of what diode spec, and I'm a quick trip to Maplins away from having it installed.
UPDATE:
Just discussed this with someone who knows what they're doing, and they pointed out that diodes drop voltage by about .7V, and so this will have the effect of reducing voltage available at the socket, but also reducing the current flow into the battery, which will mean that the charger is less effective.
As one of the options is to connect a solar panel charger, this will probably mean that effectively the trickle charging will be reduced to almost nothing, except on sunny days.
Unfortunately the biggest load on the starter circuit and battery is on cold, short, gloomy winter days, and so I have decided to skip the diodes and wire the socket direct.
Thought I'd post this info for anyone else who might have come up with the same idea.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.