Good road spec motor

[tony.mon]

Not tricky, but if you wish to remove the carbs completely, you have to drain and disconnect the coolant because the carb heater lines don't stretch very far.

It doesn't take long to get them off, tank, airbox and it's all quite obvious, as you can see everything you need to undo/loosen/disconnect.

Some kits have springs as well as jets.

I posted the Factory Pro jet kit settings and fitting in the Workshop KB some time ago.

Oh, and apparently Dynojet jet sizes aren't the same as other people's jet sizes, so their 190 might be Keihin's 180.

That's why it's fine to fit your own but most people end up doing a dyno run just to make sure that the sizes they'e fitted give good results.
But it'd be a lot better if each cylinder had its own exhaust pipe instead of going 2:1:2, as you could jet each carb/cylinder individually.

[benny hedges]

Some kits have springs as well as jets.

.

dont fit the shorter springs if you get a kit with them in.
thats what fkt my mixture up. the slides open too fast with the weaker springs and it comes on the main jet when it should still be on the needle.
keep the stock ones, even tho they are a basterd to fit.

someone posted up the difference between keihin, mikuni & dynojet sizes.
use the search thing, search main jet

i found if you just unclip the heater hoses you will only lose a few cc of coolant as its the highest point on the cooling circuit.
no need to drain it imo

[Karl_h]

Thanks guys! Have to say I've been a member of a few owners forums now and none have come close to being as helpful, friendly and welcoming! Good on ya!

Not sure what my first step in the new year will be I've been up to turn it over this weekend and it was a pig to start and only ran on one cylinder for about 10 seconds then cleared so I'm going to change the plugs and run some pro fi fuel additive thru it then go for a dyno run run. Going to check its healthy as standard before changing anything!

[tony.mon]

I wouldn't be worried about only running on one for a few seconds;
1-
most likely condensation on a plug lead causing tracking, and insufficient juice to get a spark going.
2-
The engine has to turn over before enough vacuum is created opening the fuel tap, and then fuel will flow into the carb.
As some will have evaporated while it's been unused, that can also mean that it doesn't start as easily as usual.

And unless you've had it on an Optimate or similar the battery will have lost some stored charge.

As long as it fires and runs smoothly after a while, then it's ok.
Chances are that it'll be fine every time from here on.

Not sure if pro FI fuel additive will help, as the Storm has carbs. Shouldn't do any harm, though.