Just throwing this out there to see if anyone may have an idea as to what the problem may be.
I have an 02 SuperHawk (Firestorm) here in California. About 20 thousand miles on it. I just had the valves adjusted and the cams and cam chain tensioners checked...everything mechanically is great.
However, while in neutral and in gear, as the RPMs drop between the 2,000 down to 1,500 RPM range, I hear a loud ticking noise that sounds like its coming from the rear cylinder or under the airbox.
As I said, I just had the valves adjusted, and everything else checked out, and the noise will not go away.
Any ideas are greatly appreciated. feel free to post suggestions and thoughts here or email me @ kran550@hotmail.com
Thanks...
Noise on Deceleration
Noise on Deceleration
Gotta be a Twin!
If I were you I'd let the mechanic have an other listen to the CCT's.
Just because the have just been checked does not mean they won't fail in the next few miles!
A tell tale sign is to Rev the engine in neutral when stationary and listen when it revs down - If there is a rattle (more then usual) it could well be the CCT.
Get them checked - better safe then
!
Just because the have just been checked does not mean they won't fail in the next few miles!
A tell tale sign is to Rev the engine in neutral when stationary and listen when it revs down - If there is a rattle (more then usual) it could well be the CCT.
Get them checked - better safe then

life full of surprises
I am off manual CCT idea...Max wrote:I had a rattly noise, Tensioners checked seemed OK..........
Replaced Tensioners with manual ones noise now gone............
Max
One of my friends called me about month back - he felt his Kawasaki VN750 CCTs were actually gone (springs weakened), but just "not yet" - poor thing rattled like rattlesnake etc.
Asked me to check if I'll find parts for him. I tried. In mean time he tried manual CCT, because I (poor idiot) gave him link I found in relation to VTR.
Several weeks after I got email from him - his bike had valves and pistons brief meeting.
B..dy manual CCT unsettled all system so much chain got longer, loose and jumped on sproket

He said - he tried to listen to them manual CCTs work before/during each ride, and it seemed to him pretty bad - CCTs were not following amplitude of camchain on deceleration, and you only can it get running really smooth in specific rpm range, when chain "settles".
I know - he's got an old bike (1985) but it is grey import and does not have too much mileage.
Being a mechanical engineer, I do not think manual CCTs are good idea if they have no springs or other loader in them at all - ones he had has no spring, just like long threaded pin to adjust. The meant for racing application, it's no good in daily use and it is far from smart engineering - no R&D at all.
What would be really brilliant - CCT with manual adjustement AND short-movement automatic loader, so that movement of "head" is very small, and backed by spring, and if spring brakes - "head" does not retract TOO much, not enough to make chain jump.
So - unless somebody makes half-automatic tensioners - I am going to stick with what I have.
Again, all above - IMHO, and I am sure there is people happily living with manual CCTs, just as well as some owners happily living with stock CCTs.
One thing I am not sure - I do not think that CCT spring on Storm's breakes because of something wrong with spring or idea, I think it is because camchains too long and loaded for those two long cylinders , and because of that it chain very big amplitude on deceleration/acceleration - both chains driven of same crankshaft, but driving two independent-camshafts cylinders, so smallest de-sync means huge "unsettling" effect on camchains by system feedback.
So, best thing to avoid issue would be to achive best sync between cylinders.
Oops, I got carried away again


4 wheels moving body, 2 wheels moving soul