Fairings re- sprayed ?

arnie · Post by **arnie** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 6:05 am

Hi , does anyone know of a good place to get the fairings re-sprayed, I will probably run it this season, but maybe at the end of the year think about getting all the fairngs and tank done and re stickered. Cheers Arnie.

tinysmall · Post by **tinysmall** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 7:08 am

Any coachworks will do it. Prices vary from cheap for a simple spray and lacquer though you may get a few dust specks in the top coat with this option, to quite a bit more than cheap for them sprayed, lacquered, cut and buffed, but with this option there will be no dust specks and the finish will be better than when it came out of the factory. It will be a very deep and rich shine but unless you get every painted panel on the bike done it's probably not worth it IMO because there will be a marked difference between the finished panels and the older ones. Depends if you can live with a couple of dust specks.
As a guide, I paid Â£180 to get my tail unit, seat cowl, front mud guard and chin piece sprayed and lacquered. There are a few dust specks here and there but at that price I can live with it and I live in quite an expensive area. If you live in a normal area it would be cheaper still.
If you go to one of the dedicated bike places you see advertised in the mags, you will pay through the teeth and the finish may not be any better.

benny hedges · Post by **benny hedges** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 8:04 am

drop cheekykev a pm... he knows some good painters at reasonable prices.
i just did mine myself and it looks bob on.
was cheaper to buy the gear & paint than pay someone else to do it.

alec · Post by **alec** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 10:15 am

What about this place, they sound ok
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MOTORCYCLE-RESPRA ... 27b9522e04

tinysmall · Post by **tinysmall** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 2:03 pm

Problem with doing it yourself is the baking process. Two pak lacquer needs baking at the right temp for the right amount of time. If you don't bake it, it will never fully harden and a year or two down the line can develop orange peel. It will dry out fine without baking but just wont harden properly and will always be a more fragile finish. Some people get lucky though and never have a problem but they are the exception rather than the rule. Some people use heat guns but they are only really suitable for touch ups rather than large area jobs. If the piece is small enough you can bake it in your oven at home but you need to know what you are doing. If you want a finish that is guaranteed to last and look good, save yourself the effort and risk and take it to a pro. It's really not that expensive when you consider the amount of prep work and time spent spraying, lacquering and baking that goes into it.
Still, if you feel confident and you can get hold of the right kit, give it a go.

Wicky · Post by **Wicky** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 2:25 pm

compared to cellulose paints...Two-Pack is a completely different process. The paint consists of different resin, made of acrylic and melamine (the proper title is Two Pack Acrylic Enamel). When you mix your paint, you add a second resin, or hardener, called Poly-isocyanate Resin. At this stage a chemical reaction takes place between the two resins which makes them harden. Heat can increase the speed of the reaction and a modern paint sprayshop may use an oven to decrease the drying time to as little as 40 minutes

from here http://www.austinsevenfriends.com/paint.htm

arnie · Post by **arnie** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 4:14 pm

Thanks for the input guys, I will see how the cash fund looks when I have them done !!

benny hedges · Post by **benny hedges** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 6:42 pm

tinysmall wrote:Problem with doing it yourself is the baking process. Two pak lacquer needs baking at the right temp for the right amount of time. If you don't bake it, it will never fully harden

no problem at all if you specify air dry thinners and use an accellerator

tinysmall · Post by **tinysmall** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 9:04 pm

Learn something new every day

thanks for pointing me in the right direction

benny hedges · Post by **benny hedges** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 9:18 pm

thing is with spraying 2k at home -

1} you need a proper mask..... cartridge mask is ok for short term exposure, but you should wear tyvek or similar disposable 1 piece overalls as the tin dilaurate (catalyst) in the paint hardener is deadly sh1t.... accumulative poison, and is absorbed by the skin as well as inhallation.
so you might not notice it for a while until youve done a few jobs, then it's too late.

2) overspray. even with low pressure spraying you will get a fair bit of overspray, and the thing is with 2 pack paint is it doesnt go off on contact like the dust overspray of acrylic paint.... it sticks like sh1t to a duvet and will find itself on your neighbour's new car and all over your patio windows and it a git to get off lol.
i leave a vacuum cleaner running with an open hose to catch as much as possible.

most 2 pack you will not need lacquer, unless you are using a mettalic finish or want to lacquer over decals.
make sure the lacquer is fuel proof!
best bet is to use a 2 pack clear coat which will be as hard as glass and as good as any factory job if you set your gun up right.

all i do is start off about 3 bar with just air, then turn the nozzle for the finest spray possible, on a 1.4mm tip.
works for me.

marlbororman · Post by **marlbororman** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 11:32 pm

good tips, any more usefull info, im doing 2pack topcoat next week :-) Wot ratios do you mix at? bodyshop said to splash a bit of celli thinners in it too

arnie · Post by **arnie** » Sun Mar 27, 2011 7:38 am

Sounds mega complicated, might be easier to pay someone else

benny hedges · Post by **benny hedges** » Sun Mar 27, 2011 9:15 am

marlbororman wrote:good tips, any more usefull info, im doing 2pack topcoat next week :-) Wot ratios do you mix at? bodyshop said to splash a bit of celli thinners in it too

put sheets over everything you dont want overspray on! it's a tw@ to get off.
the prep is very important as you will only mirror the surface underneath - paint is not filler, even scratches off sandpaper will show through.
usually the ratio is 2 paint 1 hardener 10% thinner.
mixit thoroughly with a lollystick or summat, if it''s the right thickness the paint should run right off.
it will look really watery but you want it same as the paint you get in rattle cans, which is thin as crouton.
if you are using an accelerator, dont go mad with it as it will make the paint brittle - i use 5% and it works great.

not sure about the cellulose thinner... maybe they do that to add flex to the topcoat?
you want plastic primer on and panels that will flex, ie fairings & tailpiece otherwise the paint could crack when you fit the parts.

if you can, use an oil free compressor... tiny particles of oil will get in the air with any cheapo garage compressor and the finish will have pock marks in it and look sh1t.
you want to get it right first time cos rubbing 2 pack down is an absolute basterd!

alec · Post by **alec** » Sun Mar 27, 2011 9:49 am

Benny dont you need a plastisizer too as its being sprayed onto plastics ?

benny hedges · Post by **benny hedges** » Sun Mar 27, 2011 9:54 am

ive never used any mate... never had a problem as long as it's primed proper should be ok.
before i did the rest of the bike i tried flexing the pillion cover to see if the paint would crack & it's fine.
thats a 2k paint, 2:1 with accellerator & 2k air dry thinners.

primed it with a matt grey primer and keyed it with 800 w&d

im not an expert in spraying by any standards, just learnt by trial & error tbh - theres a load of bollox talked about spraying like its some kind of black art but it's pretty straightforward, just spend as long on the prep as possible and make sure everything is meticulously clean, use sticky wipes to get any dust off immediately before spraying as well as dust looks awful under topcoat.

so say you get a quote of Â£300 to paint your panels.... assuming you have the time & patience and a good garage space, you can get a good cartridge filter for Â£30, oil free compressor for about Â£70 (you need at least a 25L receiver - i use a 40L propane bottle) good quality paint Â£15 /L off ebay, hardener about a fiver for 1/2 L, thinners about a tenner for 5L... it all adds up like, but then it's your stuff.

bear in mind ive done my storm, next is the scooter, then theres my kwak track bike to paint.... all in i'd have handed over more than a grand if id paid someone else to do it.

just something i wanted to do myself.
everything i spent worked out cheaper than last year's rattlecan respray when i was immobile

VTR1000.ORG