Re: Full beam or not full beam that is the question

benny hedges · Post by **benny hedges** » Wed Nov 24, 2010 10:06 pm

no m8 that is just how they are wired.
most bikes are tbh.
if you want the low beam to stay on with full beam (and it is a Hell of a lot brighter with both)
you might want to fit one of these H4 Heavy Duty Single 'Dual Beam' Headlight Relay Kits
from http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Produ ... _kits.html

they are not cheap but they are extremely good quality, plug & play.
also will enable you to run a much higher powered bulb.
i have 130/95 in mine instead of the poxy standard 60/55

AMCQ46 · Post by **AMCQ46** » Wed Nov 24, 2010 10:26 pm

yes bennys correct, it is either dip or full, not both. You can get both if you are in dip and you pull in the "pass alert" button to flash the headlights, then both beams are on. I use this if I need extra light, but it uses and extra finger so is only for short periods on dark roads at high speeds.

Best solution is to get the relays fitted to power the bulb direct from the battery, and then have a diode fitted in between the headlight wires comming from the LH switch. this will allow Voltage to flow from the main to the dip, but not the other way.
This is what the eastern Bever kit does, and it also allows you to run high wattage bulbs without the voltage drop of the switchgear sapping power or overheating.

AMCQ46 · Post by **AMCQ46** » Wed Nov 24, 2010 10:46 pm

Its not such a big job, honest.

either buy the
H4 Single Headlight Relay Kits (Fairing mount option shown).............dip and main work in isolation like today, and you fit a 100/80w bulb
or
H4 Heavy Duty Single 'Dual Beam' Headlight Relay Kits (LO beam on with HI)............then you get what you want, but dont try with a 100/80w bulb or you may overheat the lamp.

Although the bloke is in Japan, he gets the parts back to you quickly and the quality is top drawer.

You only need the seat & tank off to run the new wires direct from the battery to the headlight. pictures of where I put the relays are in here.
http://www.haymouth.co.uk/phpBB3/viewto ... ay#p122193

benny hedges · Post by **benny hedges** » Wed Nov 24, 2010 10:56 pm

oh and get the kit with the high temp ceramic h4 connector - in fact i think all his kits have the ceramic plug now?
and use some old inner tube behind it to be sure the wires dont cut into each other behind the clocks.

dont just put a brighter bulb in cos you will torch the wiring and switchgear.
with these relay kits, the only power that goes through the switch is the switching current for the 20A relays.

they really are very good.
you can make them up yourself but tbh i wouldnt bother, these are the dogs.

SWAGGER · Post by **SWAGGER** » Thu Nov 25, 2010 6:13 pm

Sheessh! Nice one chaps. That does looks like good kit. I think I need some of that action

Ta much!

Darknomad · Post by **Darknomad** » Sun Apr 10, 2011 10:22 am

so the one i want would be the
H4 Heavy Duty Single Headlight Relay Kits with Ceramic H4 Socket
with fairing mount and battery connector yes?
i can then add a better bulb etc?

Styler4077 · Post by **Styler4077** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 1:22 pm

Have we lost a thread again ?

AMCQ46 · Post by **AMCQ46** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 5:19 pm

looks like it.......it now reads like Benny and I are having a debate with ourselves!

Darknomad wrote:so the one i want would be the
H4 Heavy Duty Single Headlight Relay Kits with Ceramic H4 Socket
with fairing mount and battery connector yes?
i can then add a better bulb etc?

yes

tony.mon · Post by **tony.mon** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 6:54 pm

Styler4077 wrote:Have we lost a thread again ?

The standard length is 4.1 mm, but you may find that an American sized puller will fit.
Try a left-handed thread one, it may fit.

Re the lawnmower part, perhaps; it depends on the shaft size.

And as for your previous comment, I couldn't possibly divulge......But if she had short hairy legs, it probably was