Rear Footrest Hanger - Torque of Socket Head Screws?

Tempest · Post by **Tempest** » Thu Apr 28, 2011 5:15 pm

Hi there

Probably been a couple of years since I last posted here, and glad to see we are still up and running. After all I still have my vtr1000.org sticker on my Firestorm

After little use last year I'm getting my Firestorm all up and going again.

Anyhow, enough chit chat, and my question:

The rear rootrest hangers, at the top are held onto the box section frame that runs under the seat by two chunky socket head screws (allen keys to do them up)

I can't seem to find any torque setting for them in my PDF manual. But I may be looking in the wrong place. the manual shows them, but has no info about them.

Might anyone know their Torque setting for these?

The top two bolts in this photo (small photo) http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/m/m407uHO ... gg/140.jpg

Tempest · Post by **Tempest** » Thu Apr 28, 2011 5:36 pm

My 1st question in about 2 years, and I think I'll answer it myself ;)

I remembered in the past there were "General" torque setting for non specified items so had a look, and for 8mm bolts (which these are) are supposed to be 22Nm

So I tightened them up to 22Nm which seems about right compared to what they were before. If you disagree, please feel free to set me straight

AMCQ46 · Post by **AMCQ46** » Thu Apr 28, 2011 7:14 pm

with those parts [ie not engine or suspension bolts], I do them up to what feels right with the 8mm allen key. in my calibrated hands about 20 to 25Nm sounds about right...............BUT, I would still put some screwloc on them as the vibration will get them out.

PS welcome back, now get out and ride

Tempest · Post by **Tempest** » Thu Apr 28, 2011 11:59 pm

Thanks.

I've not had my hands calibrated recently so I have to reply on a torque wrench

Just MOT, Tax and Insurance do deal with now.

I HATE MOT's !!!!!!

benny hedges · Post by **benny hedges** » Fri Apr 29, 2011 12:53 am

not much chance of wrecking the thread tbh as they go into steel,
it's screwing into ally youve got to be carefull.

as a rough rule of thumb, 5nm per mm - ie m10 bolt, 50nm = approx 37 ft/lb m6 bolt, 30nm = approx 22 ft/lb
assuming they are high tensile bolts, which they will be for automotive use.
you could double that going into steel.

but this standards chart totally contradicts that lol
http://www.tpub.com/content/filters/TM- ... 3P_105.htm

using that chart i think you'd find it would shake itself to bits after half a mile!
works for me. threadlock is a good idea as ali says, the storm will rattle anything loose over time

Post by **sirch345** » Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:52 am

benny hedges wrote:not much chance of wrecking the thread tbh as they go into steel,
it's screwing into ally youve got to be carefull.

That is very true Benny but, there is a very good chance of spinning the inserts if over tightened.

Hi Paul, welcome back

Have you still got the same Yellow Storm

as I remember you were trying to sell her at one point.

Chris.

Tempest · Post by **Tempest** » Mon May 02, 2011 3:12 pm

sirch345 wrote:
Hi Paul, welcome back

Have you still got the same Yellow Storm as I remember you were trying to sell her at one point.

Chris.

Hiya, yes, the same storm.

Last time I had the MOT done, I then did about 20 miles for the whole year!

Decided I needed to stop polishing it, and get it on the road again!

Battery was dead (as it also was on my other bike) so bought a brand new top brand battery and fitted it last week.
Also the valve on the rear wheel had a slight split in it which I only found out by accident when pushing on my foot pump. Bending the valve over in one direction and you could hear air coming out. Wondered why the tyre would lose air over time.

So took back wheel off and got bike shop to take tyre off, fit brand new valve and rebalance the wheel with fresh weights.
Then followed me swearing trying to get back wheel on again on my own ;)

All done, now, and polished even more

Oh and fitted one of those "Optimate Charger" extension cables onto the new battery so you can plug in a charger without needing access anything.

Only thing it needs now is a MOT and Road Tax.

And to be honest, May be up for sale again. Lovely bike, but I just don't use it. Two bikes is just one too many really.

tinysmall · Post by **tinysmall** » Mon May 02, 2011 5:12 pm

That's a handsome looking bike you have there

Though it does look quite slow. Should have bought a red one.

Tempest · Post by **Tempest** » Mon May 02, 2011 11:20 pm

tinysmall wrote:That's a handsome looking bike you have there

Though it does look quite slow. Should have bought a red one.

I think you need to adjust the colour balance on your monitor as you are making the same old mistake.

Everyone knows the yellow ones are the fastest

rumbleguts · Post by **rumbleguts** » Tue May 03, 2011 8:53 pm

I insert an allen key into the screw head, add an average size ring spanner to give more leverage to the allen key and push it till I've grunted twice.Simples.
Of course the number of grunts is in direct proportion to the length of the ring spanner,ie the shorter the spanner the more grunts needed. if you d,ont grunt at all the spanner is far too long,(or your using a scaffolding pole).

Mike

Tempest · Post by **Tempest** » Sun May 08, 2011 1:36 am

Ah well, yes, you are right in a way, the size of the hex and the length of the Allen key, in some ways determins how tight you can go.

The only problem is I have a set of Allen keys with sockets attached, so I can fix then to my torque wrench and probably snap many sizes given enough ignorance

Seriously though, I do use the torque wrench as I try my very best to tighten everything I undo, back to official honda specs.

Now I have found there are general settings per size of screw, unless otherwise specified, it makes things a lot easier to follow.

By the way. I do have a rather iffy PDF manual for the early model storms, can anyone point me to somewhere that's got the best/cleanest scanned copy of the manual?

VTR1000.ORG