Hi all quick question about headset bearing I have developed a notch in my steering right in the centre, I have slackening the centre nut off several times which cures it for a while but it keeps coming back. Is this a sign that the bearings are shot? And is this a difficult job to do?
Thanks for any input.
Matt.
headset bearings question
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benny hedges
- Posts: 6110
- Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:09 pm
- Location: Warrington
Re: headset bearings question
yeh get a set of taper bearings in, much better,
but remember to retension them after a few 100 mile.
theres a thread here on replacing . tensioning them
not a big job
but remember to retension them after a few 100 mile.
theres a thread here on replacing . tensioning them
not a big job
You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.
Re: headset bearings question
Thanks does anyone know if the bearings need pressing onto the steering stem ot do they just drop on?
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benny hedges
- Posts: 6110
- Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:09 pm
- Location: Warrington
Re: headset bearings question
you just bash them on with the old race that you just took off.
dead easy.
bottom ones:
knock the old one out of the headstock with a long extension bar - from the top.
use the old bearing as a drift to seat the new one.
hit it until it stops moving, just be sure to seat it square.
get a dremel (or angle grinder if youre very carefull) and cut a diagonal slot in the inner race on the bottom yoke, taking care not to damage the yoke.
prise the slot open with a screwdriver and it will drop off.
use that piece as a drift to seat the new inner race.
top ones.... dead easy, just drop into place.
be sure to use plenty of grease, nip them up so the bars arent stiff to turn.
just use a big screwy and a mallet (is all ive ever done)
dont forget to knock over the tab washer on the locknut.
go for a good ride then retension them as they will bed in.
to retension them, no need to strip it all down, just lift off the clip on bars, undo the 12mm top yoke nut & centre nut, lift the yoke clear of the locknut, bend the tab back, retension then do it all up again.
you will need to get the front wheel off the ground to do the job (no i dont mean pop a wheelie ffs!)
dead easy.
bottom ones:
knock the old one out of the headstock with a long extension bar - from the top.
use the old bearing as a drift to seat the new one.
hit it until it stops moving, just be sure to seat it square.
get a dremel (or angle grinder if youre very carefull) and cut a diagonal slot in the inner race on the bottom yoke, taking care not to damage the yoke.
prise the slot open with a screwdriver and it will drop off.
use that piece as a drift to seat the new inner race.
top ones.... dead easy, just drop into place.
be sure to use plenty of grease, nip them up so the bars arent stiff to turn.
just use a big screwy and a mallet (is all ive ever done)
dont forget to knock over the tab washer on the locknut.
go for a good ride then retension them as they will bed in.
to retension them, no need to strip it all down, just lift off the clip on bars, undo the 12mm top yoke nut & centre nut, lift the yoke clear of the locknut, bend the tab back, retension then do it all up again.
you will need to get the front wheel off the ground to do the job (no i dont mean pop a wheelie ffs!)
You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.
Re: headset bearings question
If your after some Ive got a brand new unopened set for sale on ebay for £25!
Bought em then realised I already had some in! lol
Bought em then realised I already had some in! lol
Re: headset bearings question
Thanks for that all sounds easy enough will have a go soon.benny hedges wrote:you just bash them on with the old race that you just took off.
dead easy.
bottom ones:
knock the old one out of the headstock with a long extension bar - from the top.
use the old bearing as a drift to seat the new one.
hit it until it stops moving, just be sure to seat it square.
get a dremel (or angle grinder if youre very carefull) and cut a diagonal slot in the inner race on the bottom yoke, taking care not to damage the yoke.
prise the slot open with a screwdriver and it will drop off.
use that piece as a drift to seat the new inner race.
top ones.... dead easy, just drop into place.
be sure to use plenty of grease, nip them up so the bars arent stiff to turn.
just use a big screwy and a mallet (is all ive ever done)
dont forget to knock over the tab washer on the locknut.
go for a good ride then retension them as they will bed in.
to retension them, no need to strip it all down, just lift off the clip on bars, undo the 12mm top yoke nut & centre nut, lift the yoke clear of the locknut, bend the tab back, retension then do it all up again.
you will need to get the front wheel off the ground to do the job (no i dont mean pop a wheelie ffs!)
Re: headset bearings question
The main pain in the butt is getting the lower race off the steering stem. as benny says, grinder to cut it through and then hammer to crack it.
Use thermal expansion to help fit the bearings, so the outer races go in the freezer as soon as you get them, and you gently heat the headstock [aluminium, so expands well], and then it is easier to get them in . Always use the old bearings as a drift, so you dont risk hitting the new raceway with the hammer.
Fitting the lower race back onto the stem needs a long tube to hammer onto, and use the old bearing to protect the new race way. make sure this one is all the way down so the seal is fully trapped.
Setting instructions here, http://www.haymouth.co.uk/phpBB3/viewto ... 81#p124933 as tapers dont like to be set tight, and the haynes instructions are for the standard cup & cone design which has to be tight .
Good luck
Use thermal expansion to help fit the bearings, so the outer races go in the freezer as soon as you get them, and you gently heat the headstock [aluminium, so expands well], and then it is easier to get them in . Always use the old bearings as a drift, so you dont risk hitting the new raceway with the hammer.
Fitting the lower race back onto the stem needs a long tube to hammer onto, and use the old bearing to protect the new race way. make sure this one is all the way down so the seal is fully trapped.
Setting instructions here, http://www.haymouth.co.uk/phpBB3/viewto ... 81#p124933 as tapers dont like to be set tight, and the haynes instructions are for the standard cup & cone design which has to be tight .
Good luck
AMcQ
Re: headset bearings question
Dam already ordered original ones from David Silvers, are your ones tapered?nora2004 wrote:If your after some Ive got a brand new unopened set for sale on ebay for £25!
Bought em then realised I already had some in! lol
Re: headset bearings question
If you use the old bearings as adrift, grind just a touch off the outside faces first, this makes them easy to pull out again.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.