Engine knocking,
Re: Engine knocking,
Cheers benny
Re: Engine knocking,
MFB, As Benny says, just make sure the cam lobes are facing in the right direction as described in this link:-
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8326
I find using a 12" steel rule placed flat on the top of the cylinder head helps in checking out where the cam wheel marks are. Also a lead lamp or torch helps.
Chris.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8326
I find using a 12" steel rule placed flat on the top of the cylinder head helps in checking out where the cam wheel marks are. Also a lead lamp or torch helps.
Chris.
- benny hedges
- Posts: 6110
- Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:09 pm
- Location: Warrington
Re: Engine knocking,
i tippexed the cam gears on mine & then drew a line through with a black biro. much easier to see.sirch345 wrote: I find using a 12" steel rule placed flat on the top of the cylinder head helps in checking out where the cam wheel marks are. Also a lead lamp or torch helps.
Chris.
You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.
Re: Engine timing
Took of front cylinder cam cover last night to inspect fe and fi marks on camshaft sprockets and ft mark on crankcase cover to see if they line up(they dont) ft mark lined up and fe mark on left sprocket ok fi mark on right sprocket was clockwise by 7 teeth .Have managed to line up right sprocket again with fe and fi marks inline facing away from each other and the camshaft lobes facing away from each other is this correct?New cct is arriving on tuesday so cant do much more. Is there anyway of checking if valves are damaged without stripping down the engine.I can do a compression test when i get it back together hopefully
Re: Engine knocking,
as per one of the other threads that is running on this same subject right now, if you check teh valve clearances, it will give you some idea. if they are in spec or tighter you should be OK, if the are too big that would hint that the valve is not closing anymore
AMcQ
Re: Engine knocking,
MFB, Yes that sounds right to me, well donemacfreebe wrote:Have managed to line up right sprocket again with fe and fi marks inline facing away from each other and the camshaft lobes facing away from each other is this correct?

Below is a post I had written on doing exactly what you're doing, this may be useful.
As for the possible bent valve(s), yes you can do a compression test once it's back together.
If you need to set the front cylinder up first, then remove the front cam cover. Line up the 'FT' mark with the mark on the alternator cover, at this point the cam sprocket marks (FE and FI) should be level with the top of the cylinder head and facing away from each other. The cam lobes should also be facing away from each other


Now that the front cylinder is set, turn the engine over by hand ANTI-CLOCKWISE 270 degrees (three quarters of a turn) then line up the 'RT' mark with the mark on the alternator cover. You are now ready to remove the rear CCT. If the valve timing needs to be re-set for the rear cylinder (IE. the cam chain has jumped the cam sprockets) then the crankshaft will be in the correct position at this point to do that.
HTH,
Chris.
Re: Engine knocking,
Thanks thats a great help .
Re: Engine knocking,
You'll probably be able to visually check whether you have bent valves by removing both cam covers and looking at where the buckets sit in relation to the cylinder head surrounding them.
Compare one to them other, with the engine set so that neither cam is operating.
If one is visually lower then they'll be bent.
Compare one to them other, with the engine set so that neither cam is operating.
If one is visually lower then they'll be bent.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
Re: Engine knocking,
Yeah there bent (doh) clearance on intake on 2 valves are about 5mm.Hope head and piston r ok .But on the plus side have been lent a 98 firestorm till mine is sorted as the guy hasent used it in ages as he bought a stealth r1 which is great.Anyone heading to the north west on the 21st?http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos- ... 4243_n.jpg
Last edited by macfreebe on Thu Dec 29, 2011 9:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Engine knocking,
For a cheap fix buy a spare rear head and take the valves out of that. They're the same, but there are loads of rear heads, and no front heads available, as it's the front ones that go....
Then you only need a head gasket and perhaps a shim or two.
Then you only need a head gasket and perhaps a shim or two.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
Re: Engine knocking,
Hi guys well have stripped head and replaced the two bent intake valves and stem valves seals.Have grinded down all the valves so they are seating good(which the exhaust ones needed done)checked clearance on all valves and have set all 4 with new shims .Am ready to fix head back on so have you got any tips i should know before i start as i want to get this right first time thanks.Plus the new head gasket do i need to apply and sealer on it befor fixing 

- benny hedges
- Posts: 6110
- Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:09 pm
- Location: Warrington
Re: Engine knocking,
just follow the cct fitting guide to the letter for cam timing instructions.
dont use a haynes manual
dont apply any sealer to the gasket but a thin smear of grease will help keep it in place and help if you ever need it off again.
be sure to torque the nuts & bolts up proper. apart from that, straightforward job.
dont use a haynes manual

dont apply any sealer to the gasket but a thin smear of grease will help keep it in place and help if you ever need it off again.
be sure to torque the nuts & bolts up proper. apart from that, straightforward job.

You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.