How D.I.D. I manage to trash my chain so quick...?

[cliveyandrews]

I'm with Zak, its not worth scrimping. Just grabbed a Renthal Drive Kit comprising sprockets and an R4 SRS Chain for £135 from B&C.
Sure, its not cheap but what price do you put on a solid final drive?
I'm am surprised to read about chains for the VTR coming with split links

If I had the money I would - having just been given a £930 bill for the Volvo repair (which is £530 more than I have in the world, I have had to shop prudently - so I have got something that's still safe, and roadworthy, but just not as nice/blingy/long lasting...

The split link is gob-smacking - and this is the second time I've been recommended one!

Another thing is chain adjustment. I'm not saying you did this Clive but, a lot of riders run their chains too tight. This will also cause more rapid wear.

Luckily I'm a pretty competent mechanic Chris - I always adjust the chain at the tight spot, on a paddock stand, and clean and lube it at the same time....

My problem was that after 150 miles it was loose enough to bang the link pipe!

[cliveyandrews]

Yeah - I have one if you ever need it (except this weekend, I'll be using it)

I move between Tamworth, Staffs - and Gosport, Hampshire every week if it helps...

[cliveyandrews]

It is from Grotspot too!



(Hence the mileage!)

[Twinpotter]

If I had the money I would - having just been given a £930 bill for the Volvo repair (which is £530 more than I have in the world, I have had to shop prudently ...

Sorry to hear that man.

[cliveyandrews]

....and now the sodding steering pump has gone on the Vulva too!

It's back in the garage again....

Still, on the plus side, that EK chain I bought has done 200 miles - and even with bedding in mileage it needs no adjustment, yay!

[geodude]

Heavy Duty DID Gold chain. 17000 miles and still going strong-ish lol

Warranty was for 15000 miles.

[cliveyandrews]

I reckon that EK chain will do well too - did P's on Fri (at pace, blue balls lol), then home Mon - at even more pace (2 hours, inc 2 fuel and pee stops, wanted to get it over with) - and it's still good. A result on a new chain!

[Fazermike]

Hold on, back right up. You put a new chain on old sprockets? There's your problem....the new chain will wear like f*ck. Always change the sprockets when putting a new chain on.

Yes, I did - in 30 odd years of biking - I've never thought it an issue, and have never had premature chain wear - I can see the thinking though....

I can't afford sprocks at the mo, and have ordered a cheap EK 'O' ring to keep me mobile.
When I have the cash I will get sprockets as well as chain.

I have to agree! I have never had that problem either and I have been riding 35 years and have never used a scott oiler But you should never just chain the chain even though the sprockets look ok as it always causes premature wear

[tony.mon]

- I always adjust the chain at the tight spot, on a paddock stand, and clean and lube it at the same time....

My problem was that after 150 miles it was loose enough to bang the link pipe!

The problem with Storms is that when the rider is on board the extra weight on the swing arm tightens the chain, so you need to set it fairly slack on a paddock stand.

To see what I mean, try adjusting it next time but before taking it off the stand get a mate or someone of similar weight to you to sit on the bike, then see what if any slack you have left.

And with most aftermarket exhausts the chain will rattle on the link pipe when being wheeled backwards, but when the rider is on board and moving forward it clears it completely.

[cliveyandrews]

My problem was that after 150 miles it was loose enough to bang the link pipe!

And with most aftermarket exhausts the chain will rattle on the link pipe when being wheeled backwards, but when the rider is on board and moving forward it clears it completely.

I think I might devise some sort of sacrificial plate I could strap to it. If I get someone to put some proper (torch) heat on it, I could flatten it like factory, then a piece of stainless plate that could wear away. I see what you mean about tension changing - strangely enough I always had to set my 7r on the slack side - that tightened as I nipped the spindle up...

Sent from Cliveys iPhone using Tapatalk

[tony.mon]

A sacrificial plate would only add thickness, and reduce clearance even further, also be difficult to get the wearing surface to stick to the ex pipe, etc.
How about a small bracket before or after the pipe with a bit of plastic on?
Or a roller, if you're being flash?
A car cam belt one might do nicely....

[benny hedges]

you can get proper chain tensioners like for trials bikes.... it's like another sprocket on a spring loaded runner that goes under the s/a..
i made one for my hill climber years ago, took me ages to make then i found almost the identical item off the shelf for about a tenner lol
have a look on fleabay
like this - spring & runner type http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Motocross-CHAIN-T ... 3146wt_960

i prefer the type i made tbh but cant find a pic of something similar.... if you can imagine a deraileur gear, sort of like the spring loaded chain tensioner underneath...

[cliveyandrews]

Yeah - I looked at them - a great idea - just not too pretty.

If I can get a flat into the pipe then a plate should take no more room....


Sent from Cliveys iPhone using Tapatalk