Power loss at 8000rpm - Misfire

markycee · Post by **markycee** » Mon May 09, 2011 6:12 pm

Hi,

New to this forum. Picked up a 2000 firestorm, last week. 10k on the clock , stored under SORN for a few years and seems to be fairly standard apart from some Remus cans that aren't too noisy. At 8000rpm it loses power and hesitates all the way up to 9500rpm. I changed plugs, air filter, ran some carb cleaner through. Checked the plug caps and everything seems fine. I have clocked up another 200 miles and refuelled with Sheel optimax etc, but it's still not right. Anyone got some ideas? At this stage I'm tempted to give it to a dynotune place as they suggested the carbs may need a strip down and new shims put in etc, but it'll be a few hundred quid.

P.s The various forums are making me nervous about CCT's. Should I get a couple? Is that a Honda dealer part? How much am I looking at for those.

Thanks for any any advice

Miztaziggy · Post by **Miztaziggy** » Mon May 09, 2011 6:36 pm

There was a similar post a few weeks back about the same thing, im no expert, but I think the advice was to check the timing, in case the chains have slipped. By all accounts it isnt that hard to do.

Other than that, I think someone suggested trying to check for vaccum leaks....im sure someone with some real knowlede will be along to answer you soon

benny hedges · Post by **benny hedges** » Mon May 09, 2011 6:45 pm

highly unlikely your bike will need shims replacing at 10k miles so dont be conned into having it done.... you are wasting your money.
all it will want is oil, filters & plugs, carbs balanced, yes, maybe take them off and give them a clean out first...
cct's - rider on a storm here is selling them CHEAP and they are very good, so is the pont on ebay, and bazza696 here is doing modified standard ones.... and you can modify your own with the 'stopper mod' (search)
you need to do this as a priority following the guide in the workshop section (not the misleading haynes manual)
doing it by the guide, you will verify the cam timing is right and hasnt been set up 180 degrees out....
very unlikely though if it still has the original tensioners fitted.
(show us a pic)
more than likely it needs a service (diy service, not Â£300 to a dealer) could also be worth checking the integity of the carb diaphragms but warning... theyr a bitch to get back in the first time you do it!

these bikes are very easy to work on even if you are not very skilled with the spanners, dont be afraid to have a go - it's your bike!

tony.mon · Post by **tony.mon** » Mon May 09, 2011 9:15 pm

I think the clue is that it was stored on SORN for a few years.
Just strip and clean the carbs, jets etc, or if you want an easier solution, get some spare recently-used carbs and put those on.

markycee · Post by **markycee** » Mon May 09, 2011 9:20 pm

Woah, just read some of the stuff on changing CCT's. is it really that involved to change one. Used to have GSXR and you simply unbolted the old one and put the new one back in. I didnt think the engine would be designed to have so much chain slack to cause it to jump any teeth when the CCT is removed?? As long as Cams stay still and the crank doesn't move whilst removing the old one, it's all good isn't it???

tony.mon · Post by **tony.mon** » Mon May 09, 2011 9:25 pm

Welcome to Storm ownership; the chain is certainly able to jump sprocket teeth, so if you remove the adjuster while the cam is on it's ramp, the cam will just spin round under the chain.
Then, when you press the starter, it gets expensive, and quite noisy....

Miztaziggy · Post by **Miztaziggy** » Mon May 09, 2011 9:31 pm

I asked the same question after having changed one on cbr 600...I hadn't realised how different these engines are.

markycee · Post by **markycee** » Mon May 09, 2011 9:36 pm

Properly been drawn into CCT's now! I've forgotton what my original post was! Does this happen to everyone that got a Storm and joined this forum!! So now it's got my attention, Standard replacement tensioner or modified ones? Where is best to buy either from ?

Miztaziggy · Post by **Miztaziggy** » Mon May 09, 2011 9:41 pm

I'm no expert but from what I have read on here, modified cct with failsafe mod looks the way to go for me...

tony.mon · Post by **tony.mon** » Mon May 09, 2011 9:49 pm

Standard ones will fail; I had a standard one go in eighteen months, taking valves with it.
Manuals or stopper mod is your choice, IMHO.

Stormer Dave · Post by **Stormer Dave** » Mon May 09, 2011 9:52 pm

markycee wrote:Hi,

New to this forum. Picked up a 2000 firestorm, last week. 10k on the clock , stored under SORN for a few years and seems to be fairly standard apart from some Remus cans that aren't too noisy. At 8000rpm it loses power and hesitates all the way up to 9500rpm. I changed plugs, air filter, ran some carb cleaner through. Checked the plug caps and everything seems fine. I have clocked up another 200 miles and refuelled with Sheel optimax etc, but it's still not right. Anyone got some ideas? At this stage I'm tempted to give it to a dynotune place as they suggested the carbs may need a strip down and new shims put in etc, but it'll be a few hundred quid.

P.s The various forums are making me nervous about CCT's. Should I get a couple? Is that a Honda dealer part? How much am I looking at for those.

Thanks for any any advice

It's sounds terrible follow the advice from Sirch, Tony.mon and Benny H and you'll be fine.....I had the pleasure of doing it the other day with the threat of well lots of build problems....in the end it worked . Mine is a low millage bike, 1 owner no chips etc etc, and my advice is spend the Â£50 it will be worth it.

As for the bike.....sounds like fuel or carbs....I'd go with Tony pop on a set of spare carbs, check the balance dead easy to put the carbtune air take off in with the carbs off, and put a bit of oil (not much) around the rubbers when you take em off - it will be easier to get them back on as they are offset to each other by 120 degrees (guess) and try the power then.

If you look in my last post the guys put all the relevant process on for the CCT's.

Good luck.

Dave

markycee · Post by **markycee** » Fri Jun 24, 2011 8:26 am

Been away for a while, but thought I should update this post for the benefit of others. Sorted the powerloss problem yesterday. I got a set of carbs from ebay Â£65, fitted them yesterday and it made an incredible difference. Powerloss problem has completely gone and the bike has so much more grunt now. Instead of losing power at 8500, I've got bundles more. The choke also works as it should now. Not sure what was wrong with the other set of carbs, but I will probably strip down and take a look to see if I can see anything obvious just out of interest. Anyway all good now and I reckon I saved a few quid as the plan was to send it to a rolling road tuning place and have the carbs checked and tweeked etc. Best Â£65 quid I ever spent!

tony.mon · Post by **tony.mon** » Fri Jun 24, 2011 9:31 am

Good to hear it's fixed, now don't just forget about the cct's

markycee · Post by **markycee** » Fri Jun 24, 2011 10:17 am

All done. Thanks to Bazza's bits! The only thing Im not sure on is how to adjust them. There is no squeel or chain rattle so I guess they are okay, but it seems a bit unscientific way of adjusting these things!

tony.mon · Post by **tony.mon** » Mon Jun 27, 2011 9:51 pm

Undo them carefully when the engine is warm until you just hear a slight rattle, then wind them in a flat or two until it goes away.

Dead easy.

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