Clutch biting point?

Miztaziggy · Post by **Miztaziggy** » Thu May 12, 2011 7:57 pm

I managed to drop an exhaust stud into front chain guard, so took it off, Inc pulling out clutch pin thing, put it all back and now clutch biting point is right on the handlebar and it bites really quickly....

How did I manage that and how do I correct it please?

BIGANDYREDVTR · Post by **BIGANDYREDVTR** » Thu May 12, 2011 8:02 pm

IF ANYTHING LIKE OTHER BIKES I'VE HAD, THERE SHOULD BE A SINGLE BALL BEARING ON ONE END OF SHAFT! THAT MAY HAVE FELL OUT AND WOULD DEF ALTER BITING POINT!

Miztaziggy · Post by **Miztaziggy** » Thu May 12, 2011 8:04 pm

Oh baldrocks

So I've probably lost that then....

Kev L · Post by **Kev L** » Thu May 12, 2011 8:08 pm

I know from previous posts from the forum workshop elves that if you remove the side cover over the front sprocket without removing the clutch lever first, the clutch requires bleeding (a lot!!) when the cover is refitted.
If you want to check whether there is a bearing you will have to await the arrival of one of the magical workshop fairies!!!!

BIGANDYREDVTR · Post by **BIGANDYREDVTR** » Thu May 12, 2011 8:14 pm

JUST HAD A BROWSE OF MANUAL AND THERE IS NO BEARING MENTIONED!!!

Miztaziggy · Post by **Miztaziggy** » Thu May 12, 2011 8:20 pm

Hmm

Well taken it out again and can't see hole for a bearing...

Will try bleeding it :-(

BIGANDYREDVTR · Post by **BIGANDYREDVTR** » Thu May 12, 2011 8:24 pm

ONLY OTHER THING MENTIONED IN MANUAL IS THAT THE PUSHROD HAS TO IN THE CORRECT WAY! (CAN'T REALLY SEE WHY) THE LONGER END SECTION FACES THE LEFT SIDE OF THE ENGINE (TOWARDS THE RELEASE MECH) AND THE SHORTER END SECTION FACES THE RIGHT SIDE OF ENGINE (TOWARDS THE CLUTCH) - SO BASICALLY MAKE SURE WHEN YOU PUT PUSH-ROD BACK IN YOU PUT IT SHORTER SECTION FIRST!!! HAVE FUN

benny hedges · Post by **benny hedges** » Thu May 12, 2011 8:27 pm

kev l is correct.... but imo usually you get the creep when you remove the slave cylinder with the clutch lever attached... reason is, even with the lever fully out there is still a little pressure on the mc pushrod and the slave pushrod will creep out.
if it creeps out far enough it could lose fluid & if fluid comes out, air can get in.
dodgy biting point will usually be either change & bleed the clutch fluid, and make sure the slave cyl & gearbox sprocket cover are not loose

there is no bearing in the clutch cover on the right side.
the clutch bearing is not accessible by removing the cover or the clutch, it's on the clutch driven shaft between the crankcases.

they say the longer and shorter ends because of how it goes through the seals.... if it goes in wrong way it could leak past the seals

BIGANDYREDVTR · Post by **BIGANDYREDVTR** » Thu May 12, 2011 8:48 pm

EVERY DAYS A SCHOOL DAY!

Miztaziggy · Post by **Miztaziggy** » Thu May 12, 2011 8:52 pm

Well ill have to wait till tomorrow now so I can get some fluid...

Can I use normal brake fluid in there?

The reservoir is so small, what is the best way to fill this and bleed correctly?

benny hedges · Post by **benny hedges** » Thu May 12, 2011 8:54 pm

yeh just dot 4 fluid mate.
keep your eye on it as you dont want air in the mc.
i find it best to completely remove the bleed nipple and just keep topping up til clear fluid comes out, then pop it back in, done.

tony.mon · Post by **tony.mon** » Fri May 13, 2011 9:00 am

If you run into problems with trying to bleed the clutch (it sometimes takes twenty minutes to bleed through by gravity) try using a syringe on a pipe pushed onto the bleed nipple.
You'll need two people, but it's done in minutes that way.

VTR1000.ORG