So what is the best solution?
I was thinking stopper mod, but wondered if anyone has this and has had cct fail to prove it works?
Also the diagram shows gap A to be filled but how long is that? How much of a spacer does it need?
My bike has 28k on it and CCTs were last changed at 21k. Maybe I just put new in and don't bother with failsafe mod?
Cct
- benny hedges
- Posts: 6110
- Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:09 pm
- Location: Warrington
Re: Cct
9-10mm will do mate, just enough to stop it retracting all the way.
if it fails it will be rattly so you'll know it's gone, but it won't wreck the motor.
(unless you re-use the old spring pin and it all drops in the engine)

if it fails it will be rattly so you'll know it's gone, but it won't wreck the motor.
(unless you re-use the old spring pin and it all drops in the engine)



You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.
Re: Cct
I have done the stopper on both my engines, but havent had a failure yet to prove it, but if you read the full thread you will see that the inventor tested it with no spring, and all was good. And if you think about it, the space you leave is less than 1 pitch of a manual CCT and that has been proven to be OK on the setting range.
there is no set size for the spacer, you have to make the locking key [picture in haynes book] go the the correct TDC, fit the key and unwind by the defined setting [1/4 for rear 1/2 for front or the otherway round!] tape the key in place so it wont fall out as you handle the CCT. you then remove the roll pin [dont drop it like I did] and measure the exact depth for your engine. cut the spacer to that size...........should be in the range of 8 to 11mm........refit and then test that you got the size right.
when it fails you will get a slack chain rattle, but it cant move far enough to jump a tooth, so you can ride home and still go to work next day.
there is no set size for the spacer, you have to make the locking key [picture in haynes book] go the the correct TDC, fit the key and unwind by the defined setting [1/4 for rear 1/2 for front or the otherway round!] tape the key in place so it wont fall out as you handle the CCT. you then remove the roll pin [dont drop it like I did] and measure the exact depth for your engine. cut the spacer to that size...........should be in the range of 8 to 11mm........refit and then test that you got the size right.
when it fails you will get a slack chain rattle, but it cant move far enough to jump a tooth, so you can ride home and still go to work next day.
AMcQ
Re: Cct
and tap out the roll pin with the 3rd hand:lol:tony.mon wrote:If you're careful you can get away without the locking key; just use a tiny screwdriver firmly in place with one hand and remove the cct with the other.
Tony you are more dexterous than me [a proud claim in any club


AMcQ
Re: Cct
MZ, I've tried using just a small screwdriver when carrying out the stopper mod, and I've also used a locking key, trust me using a locking key (taped in place as AMcQ says) is by far, easier.
Chris.
Chris.
Re: Cct
I just remove it with one hand, having loosened the cap head screws a little. Then measure the gap between the base of the mounting and the head, and I can then let go of the CCT and re-set it to the same position when I have the cct bolted up in a vice.AMCQ46 wrote:and tap out the roll pin with the 3rd hand:lol:tony.mon wrote:If you're careful you can get away without the locking key; just use a tiny screwdriver firmly in place with one hand and remove the cct with the other.
Tony you are more dexterous than me [a proud claim in any club]......getting the back one out round the brake hose & the shock, the key fell out every time and if it didnt fall out then it would fall out whe I tapped the roll pin out.........hence I just tape it in, saved a lot of swearing
it's easier than I make it sound....and quicker.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.