Mods in what order ?????

marksmiffy · Post by **marksmiffy** » Fri Jun 10, 2011 12:19 am

Hi....My storm is totally standard apart from man cct's....Love it to bits and gonna start some mods....now then....do i go cosmetic first ? or mechanical?

If you had a standard Storm in what order of importance would you modify ?

At the mo all ive done is to polish the rims and with loads of advice from a couple of lads in here sorted my cam timing out.

Many thx in advance

Mark

benny hedges · Post by **benny hedges** » Fri Jun 10, 2011 6:31 am

i would agree with mike but would say get the cct done as a priority.
no point spending money on suspension only to have the engine fail on you, which it can at any time!

tinysmall · Post by **tinysmall** » Fri Jun 10, 2011 10:13 am

Suspension without a doubt as said above. It transforms the bike and needn't cost a fortune. Progressive springs and new oil in the front will do it. If your rear shock is still in working order keep it and depending on your weight either keep the spring or get one for your weight then just balance the suspension properly for your weight and jobs a good un.

AMCQ46 · Post by **AMCQ46** » Fri Jun 10, 2011 10:54 am

1st reliability .......CCT [yes done] and then the Rectifier / regulator
2nd the basics to get it right............new springs in the front forks & 7.5wt oil, spacer for the rear shock, and also mod to get better lights! [relay and 100W bulbs]
3rd to make you smile............debaffle the cans if low budget, or new cans if you have Â£
4th improvements.........better brakes [S/S lines, and CBR600 calipers & M/C], fix rear shock [new spring or new shock]

after that just add fuel

mik_str · Post by **mik_str** » Fri Jun 10, 2011 2:45 pm

AMCQ46 wrote:1st reliability .......CCT [yes done] and then the Rectifier / regulator
2nd the basics to get it right............new springs in the front forks & 7.5wt oil, spacer for the rear shock, and also mod to get better lights! [relay and 100W bulbs]
3rd to make you smile............debaffle the cans if low budget, or new cans if you have Â£
4th improvements.........better brakes [S/S lines, and CBR600 calipers & M/C], fix rear shock [new spring or new shock]

after that just add fuel

Good list

and you can continue with this:
- short-throw throttle tube (RC45 will do, costs very little)
- BMC street air filter (help it breathe, dyno-verified gains in mid-range) with jetting (no kit needed, just shim the needles)
- adjust the TPS setting (free!!!!! set it @ 430 ohms)
- order a set of billet velocity stacks (from Superhawkforum member Dr. Honda), substantial gains (dyno verified, @ 5hp) in mid-range
- lightened flywheel (not too expensive, take it out and have it machined in winter hwen bike is not in use), makes engine noticeably more responsive
- gearing (drop to 16/43, 15/41.....; can also go to 520-pitch chain and sprockets when you get around to replacing them, lose 2+ lbs of rotating weight)

That should get you smiling for relatively little money.....

marksmiffy · Post by **marksmiffy** » Sun Jun 12, 2011 9:51 am

It seems like Suspension is the first way forward

Would defo help...i'm not exactly mr 50p corner but on the other hand i'm a lot more reserved than 35 years ago when i first had my fizzer

Now another question relative to suspension...Half if not more of my riding time is with missus on the back...
...Do i need to alter summat every time i change from pillion to solo...and is there a set up for both?
Ya got to bear with me here coz i know absolutely nothing about the suspension side of things...All this talk of pre load and stuff.....wtf....I'm just learning as i go along

...

AMCQ46 · Post by **AMCQ46** » Sun Jun 12, 2011 10:39 am

In short.......yes, the difference if you have a pillion is very significant for both the spring choice and the damping, especially the rear.

As you can already work out, the spring in the STD rear shock is so stiff, it is just about correct when you are 2 up, but is way too stiff for solo. If you ride with a pillion, you will have to select a spring rate a bit stiffer than the normal solo selection, but slightly less than the standard one. Then you use the preload ring so that when you are on your own you run the bottom setting, and when with a pillion, you go to the top setting.
Fitting a progressive spring may also help, as it will get stiffer as it moves through the travel giving some sort of self compensation to the loading.

If you splash out on a new shock, you need to get one with a hydraulic preload adjuster, so you can adjust easily, the normal threaded adjuster is only for setting, it is a nightmare to adjust for a passanger.

Talk to a suspension company about the spring choice and if you give them the weights and riding style, they can recommend the spring.

Fit a progressive front spring kit and you should be fine for both solo and pillion.

marksmiffy · Post by **marksmiffy** » Sun Jun 12, 2011 10:58 am

Tks AMCQ

...Do ya know anyone in the midlands area who sorts suspension out ?

benny hedges · Post by **benny hedges** » Sun Jun 12, 2011 11:24 am

for ideal spring for solo & pillion riding as amcq suggests, a progressive rear spring will be best economical option.
mine was Â£80 from FTR and is a massive improvement over stock.
http://www.ftrsuspension.co.uk/yacugarroadproducts.htm

for a fully adjustable shock with remote manual adjustment you will be looking at Â£500+

marksmiffy · Post by **marksmiffy** » Sun Jun 12, 2011 1:55 pm

benny hedges wrote:for ideal spring for solo & pillion riding as amcq suggests, a progressive rear spring will be best economical option.
mine was Â£80 from FTR and is a massive improvement over stock.
http://www.ftrsuspension.co.uk/yacugarroadproducts.htm

for a fully adjustable shock with remote manual adjustment you will be looking at Â£500+

What are the rear springs like to fit Benny...is it as hard as cam timing?

coz dont want ya phone overheating again

tony.mon · Post by **tony.mon** » Sun Jun 12, 2011 3:34 pm

I'd suggest you buy a shock with a remote adjuster.
That way you can adjust it easily between solo and 2 up.

Much easier than messing around with a c spanner.

VTR1000.ORG